Home page Planetmountain.com
Sasha Di Giulian and Felipe Camargo making the first free ascent 'Planeta dos Macacos' (8a+, 650m) Pedra Riscada, Brazil
Photo by Bruno Graciano
Sasha Di Giulian and Felipe Camargo making the first free ascent 'Planeta dos Macacos' (8a+, 650m) Pedra Riscada, Brazil
Photo by Bruno Graciano
Pedra Riscada, Brazil
Photo by Bruno Graciano

Sasha Di Giulian, Felipe Camargo free big wall at Pedra Riscada, Brazil


American rock climber Sasha Di Giulian and Felipe Camargo from Brazil have made the first free ascent of 'Planeta dos Macacos' (8a+, 650m) up one of the main peaks in the Pedra Riscada massif in Brazil. The big wall climb is believed to currently be the only route up the peak.

Aware of this obvious, prime challenge, in mid-July Camargo and Di Giulian travelled to the huge granite domes described as the "Yosemite of Brazil", located close to São José do Divino in the southeast of the country, in order to claim the first free ascent of this open project.

The duo needed just two days to free the 14-pitch outing and, swinging leads, Di Giulian managed to onsight all the pitches she led. They spent a night in a portaledge at the top of the 8th pitch and successfully continued on to the summit the next day. The route is called Planeta dos Macacos - Planet of the Monkeys - and difficulties weigh in at 8a+ max, with the two crux pitches located in the middle of the route.

Talking to planetmountain.com after her ascent, Di Giulian stated "This big wall included its epics, as all big projects seem to have. We experienced four seasons while on the wall. Storms rolled through at night and we had no cover from the rain on our portaledge, making for some windy, wet, and cold conditions. Though, we laughed, drank whisky, and waited out the storm. Felipe was the perfect partner to succeed on this huge undertaking! I've never done the first ascent of a wall like this. So, the achievement, especially with Felipe who I have known for ten years now, feels extra special."

Although routes were climbed on Pedra Riscada in the past, the massif first drew international attention in 2009 when Germany's Stefan Glowacz, Holger Heuber and Klaus Fengler, Brasil's Edemilson Padiha and Argentina's Horacio Gratton made the first ascent of The Place of Happiness (5.12d / 7c), the striking 850-metre arête on the prominent main dome. In 2013 Divina Liberdade was forged to the left of Place of Happiness by Padilha, Valdesir Machado and Wilian Lacerda, while in 2015 Argentine climbers Ignacio Elorza, Horacio Gratton, María José Moisés, and Cintia Percivati established Viaje de Cristal that shares some pitches with Place of Happiness.





Full text search


EXPO / Products
EXPO / Company News
Planetmountain.com logo
Planetmountain.com is updated daily: news, rock climbing, walks, trekking, alpinism, freeride skiing, ski mountaineering, snowboarding and ice climbing on the mountains worldwide. Furthermore, climbing techniques explained, gear & book reviews, expert advice, mountain photography, interviews and competition reports.

Subscriber to receive the weekly newsletter with all the latest news from planetmountain.com

Recent Comments Ice
  • Distensione
    Via sportiva molto bella, dalla linea logica, in ambiente su ...
    2017-09-14 / Michele Lucchini
  • L'uomo Volante
    Il 10 giugno 2017, insieme all'amico Michele, decidiamo di r ...
    2017-07-12 / Enrico Maioni
  • Gallo George
    Il 16 luglio 2016, invogliati dalla relazione, ci siamo avve ...
    2017-07-12 / Enrico Maioni
  • All-in
    Francesco Salvaterra e Filippo Mosca 27 gennaio 2017, probab ...
    2017-02-02 / Francesco Salvaterra