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Jacopo Larcher adds two difficult trad climbs to Valle dell’Orco, Italy
05/11/2021 - Climbing
Jacopo Larcher adds two difficult trad climbs to Valle dell’Orco, Italy
The report by Jacopo Lacher who, at the end of October in Valle dell’Orco, Italy, freed the trad climbs ‘Blood Diamond’ at the crag Diamante and an old project of Adriano Trombetta at the base of Sergent, now called Shikantaza (aka. ‘Il progetto Tromba’).
Chamlang North Face Direttissima by Charles Dubouloz, Benjamin Védrines
19/10/2021 - Alpinism
Chamlang north face Direttissima by Charles Dubouloz, Benjamin Védrines
French mountaineers Charles Dubouloz and Benjamin Védrines have climbed a remarkable new route up the virgin north face of Chamlang (7319m) in Nepal. 'À l'ombre du mensonge' was ascended alpine style over 4 days and breaches difficulties up WI 5+, M5+, 90°, ED.
Piolets d'Or 2021 announces awarded ascents, Silvia Vidal receives Special Mention
08/10/2021 - Alpinism
Piolets d'Or 2021 announces awarded ascents, Silvia Vidal receives Special Mention
The 2021 Piolets d'Or awards for alpinism will be awarded in November at Briançon, France, to Pierrick Fine and Symon Welfringer for their ascent of Sani Pakkush and Ethan Berman and Uisdean Hawthorn for their ascent of Mount Robson. Catalan climber Silvia Vidal has received a special mention.
Voennikh Topografov South Face in Tien Shan climbed by Dmitry Golovchenko, Sergei Nilov, Dmitry Grigoryev
01/10/2021 - Alpinism
Voennikh Topografov South Face in Tien Shan climbed by Dmitry Golovchenko, Sergei Nilov, Dmitry Grigoryev
Russian mountaineers Dmitry Golovchenko, Sergei Nilov, Dmitry Grigoryev have made an alpine-style ascent of the South Face of Voennikh Topografov, aka Military Topographers, at 6873 m the third highest mountain in the Tian-Shan range. Golovchenko reports.
Simon Gietl, Roger Schäli climb Grandes Jorasses and complete North6 project
28/09/2021 - Alpinism
Simon Gietl, Roger Schäli climb Grandes Jorasses and complete North6 project
With the ascent of The Shroud route on the Grandes Jorasses in the Mont Blanc massif, Simon Gietl and Roger Schäli have completed North6, their project to climb the six most famous north faces of the Alps, traveling from one mountain to the next by bike. The two mountaineers required...
Cerro Lomo Larga, first ski descent of south face by Raimundo De Andraca, Antonio Eguiguren
Cerro Lomo Larga, first ski descent of south face by Raimundo De Andraca, Antonio Eguiguren
Raimundo De Andraca and Antonio Eguiguren have made the first ski descent of the south face of Cerro Lomo Larga (5400m) in Chile's Central Andes.
Petit Dru climbed by Simon Gietl, Roger Schäli as fifth north face in North6 project
24/09/2021 - Alpinism
Petit Dru climbed by Simon Gietl, Roger Schäli as fifth north face in North6 project
With their ascent of Petit Dru in the Mont Blanc massif, Simon Gietl and Roger Schäli have now climbed five of the six great north faces of the Alps. After Cima Grande di Lavaredo, Pizzo Badile, Eiger, Matterhorn and Petit Dru, now the only peak missing off their list is...
Simon Gietl, Roger Schäli climb Matterhorn Schmid route in North6 project
22/09/2021 - Alpinism
Simon Gietl, Roger Schäli climb Matterhorn Schmid route in North6 project
After Cima Grande di Lavaredo, Pizzo Badile and the Eiger, alpinists Simon Gietl and Roger Schäli have now climbed the Matterhorn via the Schmid route. To complete their North6 project, only two famous north faces of the Alps are still missing off the list: Grandes Jorasses and Petit Dru.
Simon Messner and Martin Sieberer attempt Praqpa Ri in Karakorum
20/09/2021 - Alpinism
Simon Messner and Martin Sieberer attempt Praqpa Ri in Karakorum
Simon Messner reports about his August 2021 attempt with Martin Sieberer to climb Praqpa Ri (7.134m) in the Karakorum, Pakistan.
North6: Roger Schäli and Simon Gietl climb the Eiger
18/09/2021 - Alpinism
North6: Roger Schäli and Simon Gietl climb the Eiger
As part of their North6 project to climb the six most famous north faces of the Alps while cycling between the mountains, Roger Schäli and Simon Gietl have now climbed Chant Du Cygne on the Eiger.
Simon Gietl, Roger Schäli start North6 project with Cima Grande di Lavaredo and Pizzo Badile
16/09/2021 - Alpinism
Simon Gietl, Roger Schäli start North6 project with Cima Grande di Lavaredo and Pizzo Badile
With the ascents of Cima Grande di Lavaredo in the Dolomites and Pizzo Badile in the Central Alps, Italian mountaineer Simon Gietl and his Swiss counterpart Roger Schäli have successfully started their North6 project which aims to climb the six most famous north faces of the Alps, traveling from one...
Dani Arnold climbs Petit Dru North Face speed solo
09/09/2021 - Alpinism
Dani Arnold climbs Petit Dru north face speed solo
On 15 August 2021 Dani Arnold made a solo ascent of the north face of the Petit Dru (3733m) in the Mont Blanc massif, climbing the historic Allain-Leininger route (900m TD+) in just 1 hour, 43 minutes.
Siebe Vanhee controls Project Fear on Cima Ovest di Lavaredo in Dolomites
03/09/2021 - Climbing
Siebe Vanhee controls Project Fear on Cima Ovest di Lavaredo in Dolomites
Belgian rock climber Siebe Vanhee reports about his repeat of Project Fear on the north face of Cima Ovest di Lavaredo in Dolomites.
Jernej Kruder repeats Piz dal Nas on Titlis in Switzerland
02/09/2021 - Alpinism
Jernej Kruder repeats Piz dal Nas on Titlis in Switzerland
Jernej Kruder from Slovenia, climbing with Marco Jube has repeated Piz dal Nas on the north face of Titlis in Switzerland. The 480m 8b was freed in 2010 by Matthias Trottmann.
New Kyrgyzstan climbs by Kirill Belotserkovskiy, Ivan Temerev, Alex Tyulyupo
24/08/2021 - Alpinism
New Kyrgyzstan climbs by Kirill Belotserkovskiy, Ivan Temerev, Alex Tyulyupo
Mountaineers Kirill Belotserkovskiy, Ivan Temerev and Alex Tyulyupo have established a series of new routes in the Western Kokshaal-Too mountain range in Kyrgyzstan. Highlights included ascents of Pik Alpinist (5482m) and Pik Korolyova (5816m).
Slovenians score two new climbs on Hualcan in Peru
20/08/2021 - Alpinism
Slovenians score two new climbs on Hualcan in Peru
In July a Slovenian Youth Alpine Team comprised of Matija Volontar, Bor Levičnik, Matevž Štular and Blaž Karner succeeded in climbing two new routes on Hualcan (6122m) in the Cordillera Blanca, Peru. Štular provides the report of the ascents, one of which was carried out with Aritza Monasterio.

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