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Škrlatica in Slovenia sees first winter ascents by Matej Arh and Klemen Gerbec
11/01/2017 - Alpinism
Škrlatica in Slovenia sees first winter ascents by Matej Arh and Klemen Gerbec
In December 2016 Matej Arh and Klemen Gerbec made the first winter ascents of two summer routes up the North Face of Mt Škrlatica in Slovenia. In their winter version these routes offer outstanding and challenging winter climbing in one of the most beautiful and remote corners of the Julian...
Julian Alps, new winter climb on Cima Verde del Montasio
03/01/2017 - Alpinism
Julian Alps, new winter climb on Cima Verde del Montasio
Winter mountaineering in the Julian Alps: on 18 December 2016 Enrico Mosetti, Alberto Giassi and Davide Limongi made the first ascent of ‘Amici per sempre’ (IV /4+, 350m), a new mixed climb up the North Face of Cima Verde del Monte Montasio.
Ice Climbing World Cup 2017: Alexey Dengin and Shin Woonseon win in USA
19/12/2016 - Competitions
Ice Climbing World Cup 2017: Alexey Dengin and Shin Woonseon win in USA
The first stage of the Ice Climbing World Cup 2017 took place in Durango, Colorado, USA, last weekend and was won by Russia’s Alexey Dengin and Korea’s Shin Woonseon. The Speed event was won by the Russians Maria Tolokonina and Nikolai Kuzovlev.
Thomas Huber: a ground fall, Latok I and the gratitude for being alive
29/11/2016 - Alpinism
Thomas Huber: a ground fall, Latok I and the gratitude for being alive
German alpinist Thomas Huber recounts the last three months that, in his words, 'have left a profound mark on my life.' Starting with a 16m ground fall, followed by the dream of climbing Latok I in the Karakorum and the nightmare rescue operation for American mountaineers Scott Adamson and Kyle...
Mission accomplished: Adam Ondra completes second free ascent of Dawn Wall
22/11/2016 - Climbing
Mission accomplished: Adam Ondra completes second free ascent of Dawn Wall
Adam Ondra from the Czech Republic, climbing together with Pavel Blažek, has completed the second free ascent of Dawn Wall on El Capitan in Yosemite. Considered the hardest big wall in the world, this climb was freed by Tommy Caldwell and Kevin Jorgeson between 2014 and 2015.
Tibet's Jang Tsang Go climbed by Domen Kastelic, Olov Isaksson & Marcus Palm
10/11/2016 - Alpinism
Tibet's Jang Tsang Go climbed by Domen Kastelic, Olov Isaksson & Marcus Palm
On 20 September 2016 Domen Kastelic, Olov Isaksson and Marcus Palm made what is likely to be the first ascent of Jang Tsang Go (6300m) in Tibet. The route is called Dom and graded AI4 M5.
Adam Ondra Yosemite Dawn Wall update #3
07/11/2016 - Climbing
Adam Ondra Yosemite Dawn Wall update #3
Our third update regarding Adam Ondra and his progress on 'Dawn Wall', the big wall on El Capitan in Yosemite, USA. The Czech climber has climbed to the top of El Capitan and unlocked the sequence to the crux pitch on this extremely difficult big wall freed by Tommy Caldwell...
Ray Jardine's Friends, a teacup and a blue bag
07/11/2016 - Climbing
Ray Jardine's Friends, a teacup and a blue bag
Maurizio Oviglia recalls the invention of the Friend, the revolutionary camming device invented in the 1970s by the America’s Ray Jardine. A fun story that retraces an important moment in the history of rock climbing.
Via dei Balotini, new rock climb on Torre Argentina in Vallaccia, Dolomites
04/11/2016 - Alpinism
Via dei Balotini, new rock climb on Torre Argentina in Vallaccia, Dolomites
In October 2015 on Torre Argentina in the Vallaccia group (Val di Fassa, Dolomites) the brothers Enrico Geremia and Nicolò Geremia made the first ascent of 'Via dei Balotini', a new rock climb to the right of Via Maffei - Frizzera.
Mt. Hutsa & Peak 5912m, new international climbs in Genyen massif, Sichuan
01/11/2016 - Alpinism
Mt. Hutsa & Peak 5912m, new international climbs in Genyen massif, Sichuan
New Zealand mountaineer Robert Partridge reports about the international expedition comprised of Peter Linney (EIRE), Luca Vallata & Tito Arosio (IT), James Monypenny, Tom Nichols & Heather Swift (UK) that established various new routes in the Genyen massif of China's Sichuan province including the first ascents of Mt. Hutsa (5863m)...
Mick Fowler and Victor Saunders / Sersank Himalaya details and photos
30/10/2016 - Alpinism
Mick Fowler and Victor Saunders / Sersank Himalaya details and photos
The details and photos of the first ascent of Sersank Peak (6100m) in the Indian Himalaya, carried out by British alpinists Mick Fowler and Victor Saunders in alpine style over eight days.
Chris Sharma repeats Joe Mama 9a+ at Oliana
21/10/2016 - Climbing
Chris Sharma repeats Joe Mama 9a+ at Oliana
The video of American climber Chris Sharma repeating Joe Mama, a 9a+ sports climb freed by Klemen Bečan at Oliana in Spain.
The Millennium Arch climbed in Canyonlands by Tom Randall and Pete Whittaker
17/10/2016 - Climbing
The Millennium Arch climbed in Canyonlands by Tom Randall and Pete Whittaker
British climbers Tom Randall and Pete Whittaker have made the first ascent of The Millennium Arch, a circa 100m roof crack at Canyonlands, USA they have now graded 5.14.
High pressure over Mont Blanc
12/10/2016 - Alpinism
High pressure over Mont Blanc
The high-pressure system, an unbridled love for the mountains, a fortnight, one tent and the thirst for a simple and wandering form of alpinism, with all Mont Blanc's summits and thousands of wonders in this alpine playground. This is the story of a mountaineering trip carried out by Giovanni Zaccaria...
For Gérard Ottavio and Joel Déanoz
08/10/2016 - Alpinism
For Gérard Ottavio and Joel Déanoz
On 6 October 2016 Gérard Ottavio, president of the Matterhorn Alpine Guides, and Joel Déanoz, director of the Breuil-Cervinia ski school, fell to their deaths on the South Face of the Matterhorn during an attempt to repeat the difficult and demanding Deffeyes - Carrel route. Their deaths are an immense...
Maja Vidmar climbs 8c+ at Bohinjska Bela in Slovenia
29/09/2016 - Climbing
Maja Vidmar climbs 8c+ at Bohinjska Bela in Slovenia
At Bohinjska Bela in Slovenia Maja Vidmar has repointed the 8c+ sports climb 'Privid'.