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Tibet's Jang Tsang Go climbed by Domen Kastelic, Olov Isaksson & Marcus Palm
10/11/2016 - Alpinism
Tibet's Jang Tsang Go climbed by Domen Kastelic, Olov Isaksson & Marcus Palm
On 20 September 2016 Domen Kastelic, Olov Isaksson and Marcus Palm made what is likely to be the first ascent of Jang Tsang Go (6300m) in Tibet. The route is called Dom and graded AI4 M5.
Adam Ondra Yosemite Dawn Wall update #3
07/11/2016 - Climbing
Adam Ondra Yosemite Dawn Wall update #3
Our third update regarding Adam Ondra and his progress on 'Dawn Wall', the big wall on El Capitan in Yosemite, USA. The Czech climber has climbed to the top of El Capitan and unlocked the sequence to the crux pitch on this extremely difficult big wall freed by Tommy Caldwell...
Ray Jardine's Friends, a teacup and a blue bag
07/11/2016 - Climbing
Ray Jardine's Friends, a teacup and a blue bag
Maurizio Oviglia recalls the invention of the Friend, the revolutionary camming device invented in the 1970s by the America’s Ray Jardine. A fun story that retraces an important moment in the history of rock climbing.
Via dei Balotini, new rock climb on Torre Argentina in Vallaccia, Dolomites
04/11/2016 - Alpinism
Via dei Balotini, new rock climb on Torre Argentina in Vallaccia, Dolomites
In October 2015 on Torre Argentina in the Vallaccia group (Val di Fassa, Dolomites) the brothers Enrico Geremia and Nicolò Geremia made the first ascent of 'Via dei Balotini', a new rock climb to the right of Via Maffei - Frizzera.
Mt. Hutsa & Peak 5912m, new international climbs in Genyen massif, Sichuan
01/11/2016 - Alpinism
Mt. Hutsa & Peak 5912m, new international climbs in Genyen massif, Sichuan
New Zealand mountaineer Robert Partridge reports about the international expedition comprised of Peter Linney (EIRE), Luca Vallata & Tito Arosio (IT), James Monypenny, Tom Nichols & Heather Swift (UK) that established various new routes in the Genyen massif of China's Sichuan province including the first ascents of Mt. Hutsa (5863m)...
Mick Fowler and Victor Saunders / Sersank Himalaya details and photos
30/10/2016 - Alpinism
Mick Fowler and Victor Saunders / Sersank Himalaya details and photos
The details and photos of the first ascent of Sersank Peak (6100m) in the Indian Himalaya, carried out by British alpinists Mick Fowler and Victor Saunders in alpine style over eight days.
Chris Sharma repeats Joe Mama 9a+ at Oliana
21/10/2016 - Climbing
Chris Sharma repeats Joe Mama 9a+ at Oliana
The video of American climber Chris Sharma repeating Joe Mama, a 9a+ sports climb freed by Klemen Bečan at Oliana in Spain.
The Millennium Arch climbed in Canyonlands by Tom Randall and Pete Whittaker
17/10/2016 - Climbing
The Millennium Arch climbed in Canyonlands by Tom Randall and Pete Whittaker
British climbers Tom Randall and Pete Whittaker have made the first ascent of The Millennium Arch, a circa 100m roof crack at Canyonlands, USA they have now graded 5.14.
High pressure over Mont Blanc
12/10/2016 - Alpinism
High pressure over Mont Blanc
The high-pressure system, an unbridled love for the mountains, a fortnight, one tent and the thirst for a simple and wandering form of alpinism, with all Mont Blanc's summits and thousands of wonders in this alpine playground. This is the story of a mountaineering trip carried out by Giovanni Zaccaria...
For Gérard Ottavio and Joel Déanoz
08/10/2016 - Alpinism
For Gérard Ottavio and Joel Déanoz
On 6 October 2016 Gérard Ottavio, president of the Matterhorn Alpine Guides, and Joel Déanoz, director of the Breuil-Cervinia ski school, fell to their deaths on the South Face of the Matterhorn during an attempt to repeat the difficult and demanding Deffeyes - Carrel route. Their deaths are an immense...
Maja Vidmar climbs 8c+ at Bohinjska Bela in Slovenia
29/09/2016 - Climbing
Maja Vidmar climbs 8c+ at Bohinjska Bela in Slovenia
At Bohinjska Bela in Slovenia Maja Vidmar has repointed the 8c+ sports climb 'Privid'.
Marc-André Leclerc claims first solo winter ascent of Torre Egger in Patagonia
19/09/2016 - Alpinism
Marc-André Leclerc claims first solo winter ascent of Torre Egger in Patagonia
In Patagonia Canadian alpinist Marc-André Leclerc has made the first solo winter ascent of Torre Egger (2685m).
Oliviero Bosatelli wins the Tor des Géants 2016!
14/09/2016 - Competitions
Oliviero Bosatelli wins the Tor des Géants 2016!
The Tor des Géants 2016 was won this afternoon by Oliviero Bosatelli after 75 hours and 10 minutes. All the remaining athletes competing in the grueling endurance trail across the 4000m peaks in Italy's Valle d'Aosta, via the 330km and 24,000m elevation gain course, have until Saturday 17 September to...
Rock Master Festival 2016: the finalists of the Lead World Cup at Arco
27/08/2016 - Competitions
Rock Master Festival 2016: the finalists of the Lead World Cup at Arco
Rock Master Festival, 27/08/2016. A beautiful and difficult Semifinal of the 5th stage of the Lead World Cup has just come to an end. Anak Verhoeven (Bel) and Romain Desgranges (Fra) produce the only two tops, and are followed by Ramón Julian Puigblanque (Esp), Jakob Schubert (Aut), Domen Skofic...
The need to hammer in some pegs, to get lost in order to find yourself. By Giovanni Zaccaria
21/08/2016 - Alpinism
The need to hammer in some pegs, to get lost in order to find yourself. By Giovanni Zaccaria
Giovanni Zaccaria recalls the climb, carried out in December 2015 together with his partner Alice Lazzaro, of 'Per aspera ad astra'; not necessarily a new route, but certainly an adventure up the North Face of Campanile S. Marco (Marmarole, Dolomites) in memory of his grandfather Giuseppe Suppiej.
Renegade, new rock climb up Tofana di Rozes, Dolomites
10/08/2016 - Alpinism
Renegade, new rock climb up Tofana di Rozes, Dolomites
Peter Moser reports about Renegade (VIII-, 330m), a new multi-pitch rock climb he established together with Iwan Canins up Tofana di Rozes in the Dolomites.