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Dreamtime, a dream which vanished for a second only
14/11/2009 - Climbing
Dreamtime, a dream which vanished for a second only
Michele Caminati talks about the broken hold on Dreamtime, the legendary boulder problem established by Fred Nicole in 2000 at Cresciano, Switzerland.
Masada, Sass Maor, Dolomites: first free ascent by Riccardo Scarian
03/11/2009 - Climbing
Masada, Sass Maor, Dolomites: first free ascent by Riccardo Scarian
Interview with Riccardo Scarian who on 27/10/2009 climbed the second half of Masada on Sass Maor (Pale di San Martino, Dolomites), and freed the crux pitch at 8b.
Alessandro Lamberti frees La Morte 8c at Pietrasecca
29/10/2009 - Climbing
Alessandro Lamberti frees La Morte 8c at Pietrasecca
Alessandro Jolly Lamberti has made the first free ascent of "La Morte" 8c at Pietrasecca, bolted 22 years ago by Andrea Di Bari.
Adam Ondra, Marina Superstar 9a+/9b in Sardinia
27/10/2009 - Climbing
Adam Ondra, Marina Superstar 9a+/9b in Sardinia
Interview with Adam Ondra who on 20/10/2009 made the first ascent of his hardest route ever, Marina Superstar at Bronx at the crag Grotta San Giovanni in Sardinia. The young Czech climber has "suggested" 9a+/b!
Welcome to the club, a 9a by Luca 'Canon' Zardini at Cortina
26/10/2009 - Climbing
Welcome to the club, a 9a by Luca 'Canon' Zardini at Cortina
On 03/10/2009 Luca Zardini made the frst ascent of "Welcome to the club" at the Campo boulders at Cortina d'Ampezzo which he believes is 9a.
Welcome to the club, a 9a by Luca 'Canon' Zardini at Cortina
23/10/2009 - Climbing
Welcome to the club, a 9a by Luca 'Canon' Zardini at Cortina
On 03/10/2009 Luca Zardini made the frst ascent of "Welcome to the club" at the Campo boulders at Cortina d'Ampezzo which he believes is 9a.
Matteo Gambaro frees Azione Diretta 8c+/9a at Piatta di Montemale, Italy
22/10/2009 - Climbing
Matteo Gambaro frees Azione Diretta 8c+/9a at Piatta di Montemale, Italy
On 17 October Matteo Gambaro made the first ascent of Azione Diretta 8c+/9a at Borgata Piatta a Montemale, Cuneo, Italy.
Verdon climbing: Toni Lamprecht frees Le Vieux et la mer
19/10/2009 - Climbing
Verdon climbing: Toni Lamprecht frees Le Vieux et la mer
In summer 2009 Toni Lamprecht, Uli Strunz and Benno Wagner carried out the first ascent of the multi-pitch "Le Vieux et la mer" 8b in the Verdon Gorge, France.
Jenny Lavarda & Marco Ronchi and their ascents of Solo per vecchi guerrieri
16/10/2009 - Climbing
Jenny Lavarda & Marco Ronchi and their ascents of Solo per vecchi guerrieri
Interview with Jenny Lavarda after the first free ascent of "Solo per vecchi guerrieri" (150m, 8c+/9a, Vette Feltrine, Dolomites), first ascended by Manolo and repeated by Mario Prinoth and Riccardo Scarian. She was accompanied by Marco Ronchi who also managed to redpoint the route that day.
Frankenjura climbing updates: Markus Bock, Sarah Seeger and Adam Ondra
13/10/2009 - Climbing
Frankenjura climbing updates: Markus Bock, Sarah Seeger and Adam Ondra
Sarah Seeger climbs Steinbock 8c in the Frankenjura, Markus Bock creates his hardest to date, The Man That Follows Hell 9a+, while Adam Ondra makes swift work of two other testpieces in Germany's premier climbing area.
Lisa Benetti climbs Progetto 8b+ at the Covolo
09/10/2009 - Climbing
Lisa Benetti climbs Progetto 8b+ at the Covolo
At the start of October Lisa Benetti climbed Progetto 8b+ at the Covolo, Italy.
Naranjo de Bulnes, Quinto Imperio, first repeat by Faria and Nogueira
08/10/2009 - Climbing
Naranjo de Bulnes, Quinto Imperio, first repeat by Faria and Nogueira
On 26/27/08/2009 Leopoldo Faria and Pedro Nogueira carried out the first repeat of Quinto Imperio (550m 8b) on the Naranjo de Bulnes, Picos de Europa, Spain.
Rocklands bouldering, Kilian Fischhuber flies Airstar
05/10/2009 - Climbing
Rocklands bouldering, Kilian Fischhuber flies Airstar
In August 2009 Kilian Fischhuber from Austria freed Airstar Fb8b, a long-standing problem at Rocklands, South Africa.
Adam Ondra nets Fugu 9a at the Schleierwasserfall, Austria
24/09/2009 - Climbing
Adam Ondra nets Fugu 9a at the Schleierwasserfall, Austria
Interview with Adam Ondra from the Czech Republic who on 20/09/2009 made the first ascent of an old Alexander Huber project, Fugu 9a at the Schleierwasserfall in Tyrol, Austria.
Tuolumne Meadows - Yosemite bouldering
24/09/2009 - Climbing
Tuolumne Meadows - Yosemite bouldering
An introduction to bouldering and rock climbing at Tuolumne Meadows, Yosemite National Park, California, USA by guidebook author Chris Summit.
New route on K7 for Larcher, Leoni, Cagol and Orlandi
21/09/2009 - Alpinism
New route on K7 for Larcher, Leoni, Cagol and Orlandi
On 10 August the Italian expedition Karakorum 2009 comprised of Rolando Larcher, Fabio Leoni, Michele Cagol and Elio Orlandi completed their new route The Children of Hushe (1100m, 7b A2) up the West Pillar of K7 (Charakusa Valley, Pakistan). On 14/08/2009 Rolando Larcher and Fabio Leoni carried out a fast...

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