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Has exploratory alpinism failed?
10/10/2014 - Alpinism
Has exploratory alpinism failed?
Starting from a recent statement by Reinhold Messner, Manuel Lugli discusses the presumed end of “traditional” and exploratory alpinism.
Federica Mingolla repeats Tom et je ris 8b+ in the Verdon Gorge
09/10/2014 - Climbing
Federica Mingolla repeats Tom et je ris 8b+ in the Verdon Gorge
On 2 October 2014 Italian climber Federica Mingolla repeated the spectacular climb Tom et je ris 8b+ in the Verdon Gorge, France. The report by Edoardo Falletta
The North Face Kalymnos Climbing Festival 2014: kick-off!
08/10/2014 - Climbing
The North Face Kalymnos Climbing Festival 2014: kick-off!
The North Face Kalymnos Climbing Festival 2014 begins today. The international climbing meeting takes place on the island of Kalymnos, Greece, from 9 – 12 October 2014. More than 2500 climbers are expected for this third edition that will celebrate sport climbing with a handful of true climbing legends: Patxi...
Profilveggen free climb in Norway by Erik Massih and Crister Jansson
06/10/2014 - Climbing
Profilveggen free climb in Norway by Erik Massih and Crister Jansson
Erik Massih reports about the first free ascent of Ronny Medelsvensson (Scandinavian grade 9 / French 8b) at Profilveggen, Jøssingfjord, Norway, carried out in July 2014 together with Crister Jansson.
Giù la testa, new Lagorai rock climb, Dolomites
06/10/2014 - Alpinism
Giù la testa, new Lagorai rock climb, Dolomites
The report by Peter Moser about Giù la testa (350m VIII / VIII+), a difficult new trad rock climb first ascended in 2014 in the Lagorai group, Dolomites, together with Thomas Ballerin, Iwan Canins and Roberto Ronzani.
Two new routes by Maurizio Oviglia for...his daughters
03/10/2014 - Alpinism
Two new routes by Maurizio Oviglia for...his daughters
Maurizio Oviglia dedicates two new routes in Sardinia to his daughters, Kawaii, climbed with his daughter Elena on the Placche dell'Elefante in Sarrabus and Sweet Helen, climbed with Cecilia Marchi and dedicated to their daughter Elena, on the Figlia di Guglia at Cala Goloritzè, Baunei. A chance to talk about...
Leonidio and the crag Hot Rock in Greece
03/10/2014 - Climbing
Leonidio and the crag Hot Rock in Greece
Located in the Peloponnese, just 3.5 hours south of Athens, Leonidio is Greece's newest trendy area, with more than 20 crags and 300 routes; single and multi-pitch climbing up to 250m high, from 5a to 9a. Aris Theodoropoulos introduces one of the best crags in Europe for winter climbing.
Grandes Jorasses, Directe de l'Amitié by Corrado Pesce and Martin Elias
02/10/2014 - Alpinism
Grandes Jorasses, Directe de l'Amitié by Corrado Pesce and Martin Elias
On 26 and 27 September 2014 Corrado Pesce and Martin Elias repeated Directe de l'Amitie on the North Face of the Grandes Jorasses (Mont Blanc). A route first climbed in winter 1974 by Louis Audoubert, Michel Feuillarade, Marc Galy and Yannick Seigneur, described by Corrado Korra Pesce as 'the most...
Cresciano, the bouldering paradise in Switzerland
02/10/2014 - Climbing
Cresciano, the bouldering paradise in Switzerland
Claudio Cameroni, Roberto Grizzi and Renzo Lodi introduce, should this still be necessary, the bouldering paradise Cresciano in Canton Ticino, Switzerland. During the high season thousands of climbers flock from all over the world to Cresciano which, this weekend, will host Night Session, the unique international night bouldering meeting.
The Grandes Jorasses serac, interview with Michèle Curtaz, Fondazione Montagna Sicura
01/10/2014 - Alpinism
The Grandes Jorasses serac, interview with Michèle Curtaz, Fondazione Montagna Sicura
On 16/09/2014, the Mayor of Courmayeur prohibited access to the path that leads to Rifugio Boccalatte and also the areas below the Whymper serac on the Grandes Jorasses. Excessive zeal on behalf of the town council, or was the serac really in danger of collapsing? Between 20 and 22 September,...
Greenland 2014 and Baffin island: climbing at Gibbs Fjord by Favresse, Ditto and Villanueva
01/10/2014 - Alpinism
Greenland 2014 and Baffin island: climbing at Gibbs Fjord by Favresse, Ditto and Villanueva
The final report by Nicolas Favresse about the Greenland 2014 expedition, carried out together with Olivier Favresse, Ben Ditto and Sean Villanueva. This final update includes the exploration at Gibbs Fjord, Baffin Island
Philipp Angelo solos the Grandes Jorasses Polish route
30/09/2014 - Alpinism
Philipp Angelo solos the Grandes Jorasses Polish route
The short report by South Tyrolean alpinist Philipp Angelo who on 15 September2014 carried out what is likely to be the second solo ascent of the Polish route up the North Face of the Grandes Jorasses (Mont Blanc).
Giorgia Tesio seen through the eyes of Cristian Core
30/09/2014 - Climbing
Giorgia Tesio seen through the eyes of Cristian Core
The video, by Cristian Core, about young Italian climber Giorgia Tesio.
Gasherbrum V, first ascent by the Koreans Chi-young Ahn and Nak-jong Seong
29/09/2014 - Alpinism
Gasherbrum V, first ascent by the Koreans Chi-young Ahn and Nak-jong Seong
On 25/07/2014 the Koreans Chi-young Ahn and Nak-jong Seong completed the first ascent of Gasherbrum V (7147m) in Pakistan, climbing alpine style via a new route up the South Face. The report by expedition leader Chi-young Ahn.
Pinne gialle, new climb by Manolo at Tognazza
26/09/2014 - Climbing
Pinne gialle, new climb by Manolo at Tognazza
On 23/09/2014 Maurizio 'Manolo' Zanolla made the first free ascent of Pinne gialle, a difficult new 4-pitch climb up the side of the large central corner at Tognazza (Passo Rolle, Dolomites, Italy).
Volcan Aguilera, first ascent in Patagonia by the Uncharted expedition
23/09/2014 - Alpinism
Volcan Aguilera, first ascent in Patagonia by the Uncharted expedition
The Uncharted expedition comprised of Camilo Rada, Natalia Martinez, Ines Dusaillant, Viviana Callahan and Evan Miles has made the first ascent of Volcan Aguilera (2480m) on the South Patagonian Icefield. Furthermore, during the return across the Hielos Continentales the team ascended four other previously unclimbed peaks. The report by Camilo...

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