Home page Planetmountain.com
Ben Moon climbing Rainshadow 9a at Malham Cove, England
Photo by Steve Lewis / moonclimbing.com
INFO / links & info:

Ben Moon storms through Rainshadow 9a at Malham Cove


British climber Ben Moon has made the 4th ascent of Rainshadow 9a at Malham Cove, England.

48-year-old British sports climber Ben Moon proves that age is no barrier to this sport with his astounding redpoint yesterday of Rainshadow, the 9a continuation of Raindogs at Malham Cove freed by Steve McClure in 2003.

During the late 1980’s and early 1990’s Ben Moon, together with climbing partner Jerry Moffatt, was one of the undisputed aces of British - and world - sport climbing, dominating the new sport and pioneering climbs from 8a all the way to 9a.

In 1984 Moon, dreadlocked and a mere 18 years old, caused a stir with his groundbreaking Statement of Youth at Lower Pen Trwyn, an 8a which heralded the true start of the sport climbing revolution in Great Britain. In 1989 he made the first ascent of two of the hardest climbs in France, Agincourt at Buoux and Maginot Line (also referred to as Le Plafond) at Volx, and these 8c’s paved the way for the pinnacle of his career, Hubble at Raven Tor. With a Font 8B+ section followed by a 7c route, this extremely bouldery limestone testpiece was hailed as the world’s first 8c+ but in its 25-year history it has only been repeated 5 times - and attempted unsuccessfully by many of the world’s best - giving rise to healthy speculation that it may well be graded 9a. This, should it be confirmed, would mean that the benchmark 9a Action Direct climbed a year later by Wolfgang Güllich in Germany’s Frankenjura would no longer be considered the first of its grade.

In 1993 Moon retuned to Lower Pen Trwyn to make the first ascent of the 8c+ Sea of Tranquility and he also set his sights on an even harder project still, the enormous overhanging North Buttress at Kilnsey crag. This intense line of crimps required a new level of power and resistance and after a series impressive attempts, injuries forced Moon to abandon the line. Steve McClure eventually freed the route in 2000 to create Northern Lights, at the time the country’s third 9a.

During Moon’s heyday he also devoted much time to hard bouldering and this peaked with, amongst others, his first ascent of Voyager Fb8B+ at Burbage in 2006. In the ensuing years Moon has dedicated more time to his family and his business but evidently his perennial motivation and determination have remained intact. Sunday’s repoint of Rainshadow is only the 4th ascent of the route and proves that, 25 years after freeing Hubble and just days before his 49th birthday, he remains one of the world’s leading sport climbers.





Full text search


EXPO / Products
EXPO / Company News
Planetmountain.com logo
Planetmountain.com: climbing, alpinism, mountaineering, trekking, via ferrata, freeride skiing, ski mountaineering, snowboarding and ice climbing worldwide. Furthermore the site contains technical gear reviews, book and film reviews, expert advice, mountain photos, sport climbing competitions.
The information is indicative and subject to change due to the nature of the mountain environment. Given the inherently risky nature of the activities described within, Planetmountain.com does not assume any responsibility for the use of the information published.

SUBSCRIBE to receive the weekly newsletter with all the latest news from planetmountain.com

Recent Comments Ice
  • L'uomo Volante
    Il 10 giugno 2017, insieme all'amico Michele, decidiamo di r ...
    2017-07-12 / Enrico Maioni
  • Gallo George
    Il 16 luglio 2016, invogliati dalla relazione, ci siamo avve ...
    2017-07-12 / Enrico Maioni
  • All-in
    Francesco Salvaterra e Filippo Mosca 27 gennaio 2017, probab ...
    2017-02-02 / Francesco Salvaterra
  • Una via per te fatta in tre
    Prima ripetizione effettuata il 3/11. Da rettificare la diff ...
    2015-11-13 / maurizio piller%20hoffer