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La storia infinita on Agner, first repeat and winter ascent in the Dolomites by Martin Dejori and Titus Prinoth
18/01/2016 - Alpinism
La storia infinita on Agner, first repeat and winter ascent in the Dolomites by Martin Dejori and Titus Prinoth
From 29 to 30 December 2015 the alpinists Martin Dejori and Titus Prinoth carried out the first repeat (and first winter ascent) of La storia infinita, the route established in 1990 up the NE Face of Mt. Agner (Dolomites) by the Czech brothers Miroslav Coubal and Michal Coubal.
Nanga Parbat: team join forces on Kinshofer route. Nardi and Bielecki ascend but are stopped by fall at 5800m
14/01/2016 - Alpinism
Nanga Parbat: team join forces on Kinshofer route. Nardi and Bielecki ascend but are stopped by fall at 5800m
The latest updates concerning attempts at the first winter ascent of Nanga Parbat (8125m) Pakistan. On the Diamir Face Daniele Nardi, Alex Txikon, Ali Sadpara, Adam Bielecki and Jacek Tcech have decided to join forces along the Kinshofer route, and Bielecki fell, fortunately without hurting himself. Elisabeth Revol and Tomek...
Rondò Veneziano on Torre Venezia, too beautiful to resist
07/01/2016 - Alpinism
Rondò Veneziano on Torre Venezia, too beautiful to resist
On 23 December 2015 Nicola Tondini and Emanuele Pellizzari repeated Rondò veneziano (470m, IX), the route first climbed by Christoph Hainz and Kurt Astner up the South Face of Torre Venezia (Civetta, Dolomites). The report by Nicola Tondini of what is also the first winter ascent of this magnificent rock...
Kei Taniguchi perishes on Mount Kuro in Japan
23/12/2015 - Alpinism
Kei Taniguchi perishes on Mount Kuro in Japan
Yesterday 22 December 2015 the body of missing Japanese alpinist Kei Taniguchi was found on Mount Kuro in Japan. In 2009 she had been the first woman to win the prestigious Piolet d'Or.
Gran Sasso Corno Piccolo shoulders as a winter prelude... by Massimo Marcheggiani
16/12/2015 - Alpinism
Gran Sasso Corno Piccolo shoulders as a winter prelude... by Massimo Marcheggiani
Mountaineering: on 7 and 8 December, 2015 Massimo Marcheggiani and Lorenzo Trento enchained the three Spalle del Corno Piccolo (Gran Sasso, Italy) in winter garb. The report by Massimo Marcheggiani
Simone Moro and Tamara Lunger depart for first winter ascent of Nanga Parbat
10/12/2015 - Alpinism
Simone Moro and Tamara Lunger depart for first winter ascent of Nanga Parbat
The alpinists Simone Moro and Tamara Lunger have set off for the Pakistan’s Karakoram to attempt the first winter ascent of Nanga Parbat (8125m).
Voodoo-Zauber, new rock climb up Dolomites Heiligkreuzkofel by Simon Gietl and Andrea Oberbacher
26/10/2015 - Alpinism
Voodoo-Zauber, new rock climb up Dolomites Heiligkreuzkofel by Simon Gietl and Andrea Oberbacher
Simon Gietl and Andrea Oberbacher have made the first free ascent of Voodoo-Zauber (IX-, 180m) on Heiligkreuzkofel / Sass de la Crusc (2718m) in the Dolomites.
Pelmo North Face winter ascent. A climbing story for commanders only
29/09/2015 - Alpinism
Pelmo North Face winter ascent. A climbing story for commanders only
Ivo Ferrari retraces the winter repeat of the Pelmo North Face, carried out in the Dolomites by Soro Dorotei, Renato Panciera and Giuliano De Marchi. One of the most memorable stories of alpinism and winter mountaineering
Tamara Lunger at Passione Verticale in Courmayeur
17/08/2015 - Events
Tamara Lunger at Passione Verticale in Courmayeur
On Tuesday 18 August at the Jardin de l’Ange in Courmayeur, the alpinist Tamara Lunger will be the guest of the fourth meeting of Passione Verticale. The evening will be transmitted in live streaming.
Cerro Torre and the 1985 first winter ascent
23/07/2015 - Alpinism
Cerro Torre and the 1985 first winter ascent
It's currently winter in Patagonia. Exactly 30 years ago, in July 1985, the Italians Paolo Caruso, Maurizio Giarolli, Andrea Sarchi and Ermanno Salvaterra carried out the historic first winter ascent of Cerro Torre via the 'Compressor route' established by Cesare Maestri up the East Ridge. Here is a short film...
Langkofel Esposito - Butta, first winter ascent in the Dolomites by Giorgio Travaglia and Alex Walpoth
26/05/2015 - Alpinism
Langkofel Esposito - Butta, first winter ascent in the Dolomites by Giorgio Travaglia and Alex Walpoth
From 18 to 20 February 2015 Giorgio Travaglia and Alex Walpoth made the first winter ascent of Via Esposito - Butta up the North Face of Langkofel, Dolomites.
Mount Dickey new climb in Alaska by Frieh, Diesinger and Stuckey
08/05/2015 - Alpinism
Mount Dickey new climb in Alaska by Frieh, Diesinger and Stuckey
In March 2015 John Frieh, Chad Diesinger, Jason Stuckey made the first ascent of Blue Collar Beatdown (V WI4 M4 65°), a new route up the NE Face of Mount Dickey, Alaska.
Gran Sasso d'Italia and the Paretone Fourth Pillar. By Ivo Ferrari
29/04/2015 - Alpinism
Gran Sasso d'Italia and the Paretone Fourth Pillar. By Ivo Ferrari
Ivo Ferrari retraces the history of the Quarto Pilastro del Paretone on Gran Sasso, first climbed in 1959 by Luigi Mario and Emilio Caruso, with an account by Stefano Ardito of the historic first ascent and an account by Fabrizio Antonioli about the first repeat, carried out in 1977 together...
Impressive impressions: Patrick Berhault and Mt. Monviso
01/04/2015 - Alpinism
Impressive impressions: Patrick Berhault and Mt. Monviso
Patrick Berhault and long ridge from Colle Traversette to Monviso. To remember that the "game" and mountaineering are never ending. By Ivo Ferrari.
Tom Ballard and the Eiger - a hard day's winter
27/03/2015 - Alpinism
Tom Ballard and the Eiger - a hard day's winter
British mountaineer Tom Ballard reports about his recent ascent of the Eiger that crowned his Starlight and Storm project to climb the six great North Faces of the Alps in winter, alone and in just one season: Cima Grande di Lavaredo, Pizzo Badile, Matterhorn, Grandes Jorasses, Petit Dru and the...
A Dolomite DOC climb reinterpreted in winter
17/03/2015 - Alpinism
A Dolomite DOC climb reinterpreted in winter
Francesco Salvaterra reports about the winter ascent, carried out together with Marcello Cominetti, of Hrushka up the East Face of Mur de Pisciadù, Sella, Dolomites, Italy.

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