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The magnificent south face of Marmolada, Dolomites
Photo by archivio Hansjörg Auer
Lorenzo Massarotto during his solo ascent of Via dell'Ideale, Punta d'Ombretta, Marmolada in October 1980
Photo by Ettore De Biasio
Rifugio Onorio Falier at the foot of the south face of Marmolada
Photo by Rifugio Falier

Marmolada South Face: climbing banned on Via dell’Ideale only

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Following legislation issued earlier today by the Municipality of Rocca Pietore, it is forbidden to climb the route Via dell’Ideale up Punta Rocca (Punta d'Ombretta), Marmolada south face, Dolomites from 21 June to 15 July 2016.

Due to construction work at the Punta Rocca mountain station of the Marmolada cable car, on 21 June 21, 2016 the Municipality of Rocca Pietore issued ordinance No. 25 entitled "CLIMBING BAN ON PUNTA ROCCA - SOUTH FACE OF MARMOLADA. VIA IDEALE AND VARIATIONS."

This new order revokes the previous order n. 24 dated 20/06/2016 and clearly defines the climbing ban, which only affects Via dell’Ideale and its variants on Punta Rocca, for the period 21 June 2016 to 15 July, 2016.

>> Read the order issued by the municipality of Rocca Pietore

For any further information about the condition of rock climbs on the Queen of the Dolomites we recommend, as always, you contact the hut wardens of Rifugio Falier Dante Del Bon and Franca Busin.

Via dell’Ideale - a short history
Via dell’Ideale was established in 54 hours of climbing and with five bivouacs from 24 to 29 July 1964 by the great Italian partnership comprised of Armando Aste from Rovereto and Franco Solina from Brescia. In the ensuing years this route was repeated by some of the world’s greatest mountaineers. The second ascent was carried out by Reinhold Messner, Sepp Mayerl, Heini Holzer and Heindl Messner in 1967, while the first winter ascent was carried out by the Poles Jerzy Kukuczka, Janusz Kurczab, Marian Piekutowski, Janusz Skorek and Zbigniew Wach in 1973. Heinz Mariacher and Luisa Iovane clocked up the first one day ascent on 26 August 26, 1978, while in October 1980 Lorenzo Massarotto made the first solo ascent. The first free solo was carried out by Maurizio Giordani in August 1985. In short, a climb that, with its Messner and Mariacher variants, retraces the history of climbing in the Dolomites, and not only.

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