203 News found

On 31/03 and 01/04/2011 Rolando Larcher, Luca Giupponi and Nicola Sartori completed the first ascent of Pompa Funebre (150m, 8b max, 7a+ obligatory). The route had previously been started by Larcher, Giupponi and Maurizio oviglia up the NE Face of Monte Pellegrino (Palermo, Sicily).

In April 2011 a small French team comprised of Arnaud Petit, Aymeric Clouet and young Enzo Oddo travelled to the Taghia Gorge in Morocco where they created Walou Bass, a 150m climb with difficulties up to 8c.

On 14/07/2010 Rolando Larcher and climbing partner Tiziano Buccella carried out the first free ascent of AlexAnna (740m, 8a+ max, 7a+ obl.), up the Pilastro Lindo on the SW Face of Punta Penia on the Marmolada, Dolomites. Larcher had established the line with various partners over 6 days during 2007...

On 14 and 21 June 2010 Rolando Larcher and Maurizio oviglia established their Camaleontica (290m, 7a+ max 6c+ obbl.), a new trad route up the North Face of Punta Cusidore, Supramonte, Sardinia

Maurizio oviglia, the man responsible for hundeds of new routes all across Italy, reflects about the use and habit of leaving in-situ quickdraws on sport routes. This habit is spreading to easier routes and the implications are far deeper than a simple question of aesthetics.

On 16 April Maurizio oviglia and Rolando Larcher carried out the first free ascent of De rerum natura (230m, 7c max, 7a obbl, /RS2+/II) on Punta u Corbu at Col de la Bavella, Corsica.

In January 2010 a new route was established on Monte Ginnircu at Baunei, Sardinia. A first pitch was created in 2007 by Fabio Palma and Matteo Della Bordella, and in January Fabio Palma joined forces with Domenico 'Dodo' Soldarini to complete the line.

45 year old Arthur Kubista has made the first ascent of Der lange Atem 9a+ at Schattenreich, Höllental, Austria. Maurizio oviglia recounts this latest ascent of one of the strongest and least known Austrian climbers of all times.

On 15 June Rolando Larcher and Maurizio oviglia carried out the first free ascent of Umbras (300m 8a max, 7b+ obl.). They had made the first ascent of this rout up the N Face of Punta Cusidore (Sardinia) in 2008.

In June 2008 Diego Cociancich, Stefano Zaleri and Marco Zebochin made the first ascents of two new routes in Turkey's Ala Daglar mountain range, Obelix 6b, 340m and L’armata Brancaleone 7a, 360m.

From 21 September to 9 October an Italian team led by of Mauro Florit visited Morocco's Taghia, where they carried out the first ascent of "Mai molar berbère" on the SE Face of Tagoujimt n'Tsouiannt (TD+, 500 metri, max 6+).

At the end of September and the start of October Maurizio oviglia, Sara oviglia, Paolo Seimandi and Eugenio Pinotti completed two new multi-pitch routes on the Sergent rock face in Valle Orco. They then added two single pitches to the wall and another to the Dado.

Fred Gentet, Nicolas Kalisz, Stéphanie Bodet and Arnaud Petit have made the first ascent of Babel (7c+, 800m) in Morocco's Taghia Gorge

On 23/08 Mauro Bubu Bole carried out the first repeat of 'Mezzogiorno di fuoco' (8b max, 7c obligatory, expo) on Punta Giradili, Sardinia.

Two new routes solo by Ezio Marlier, Spirito Libero (600m IV/4/M4) on Monte Emilius and Aragon (500m IV/4+/M6/A1) on Granta Parey, plus the solo repeats of some classic climbs on Mont Blanc du Tacul and Grandes Jorasses give some food for thought about climbing "without partners".

On 6 May Rolando Larcher carried out the first free ascent of Mezzogiorno di fuoco (270m, 8b max, 7c obligatory) on Punta Giradili, Sardinia. The route had been established by Larcher together with Maurizio oviglia and Roberto Vigiani in 2006.