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Remembering Kurt Albert, German climbing legend and father of the redpoint
28/09/2020 - Climbing
Remembering Kurt Albert, German climbing legend and father of the redpoint
Precisely 10 years ago German climbing legend Kurt Albert died at the age of 56. He invented the redpoint philosophy in Frankenjura in 1975, considered nowadays the standard for sport climbing worldwide, and established numerous important rock climbs and big walls across the globe.
John Gill, the father of modern bouldering, in American Alpine Club Legacy Series
20/09/2020 - Climbing
John Gill, the father of modern bouldering, in American Alpine Club Legacy Series
A video tribute to John Gill, considered by many the father of modern bouldering, by the American Alpine Club Legacy Series.
Eiger Paciencia repeated by Nils Favre and Symon Welfringer
14/09/2020 - Alpinism
Eiger Paciencia repeated by Nils Favre and Symon Welfringer
Switzerland’s Nils Favre and France’s Symon Welfringer have repeated Paciencia, the 900m 8a first ascended by Stephan Siegrist and Ueli Steck in 2003 up the North Face of the Eiger.
Jernej Kruder frees Ellipsis on Bila Pec at Sella Nevea, Italy
07/09/2020 - Climbing
Jernej Kruder frees Ellipsis on Bila Pec at Sella Nevea, Italy
Slovenian climber Jernej Kruder has made the first free ascent of Ellipsis, a five-pitch climb with difficulties up to 8b+ on Mt. Bila Pec at Sella Nevea in the Julian Alps, Italy.
Grandes Jorasses: Federica Mingolla, Leo Gheza repeat Il Giovane Guerriero for Matteo Pasquetto
21/08/2020 - Alpinism
Grandes Jorasses: Federica Mingolla, Leo Gheza repeat Il Giovane Guerriero for Matteo Pasquetto
Federica Mingolla and Leo Gheza have made the first repeat of Il Giovane Guerriero, Young Warrior, the route established only recently up the east face of the Grandes Jorasses in the Mont Blanc massif by Matteo Della Bordella, Matteo Pasquetto and Luca Moroni. The route was dedicated to Matteo Pasquetto...
Nicolas Favresse, Sébastien Berthe fancy Des Kaisers neue Kleider in Wilder Kaiser
20/08/2020 - Climbing
Nicolas Favresse, Sébastien Berthe fancy Des Kaisers neue Kleider in Wilder Kaiser
Seb Berthe and Nico Favresse have made a single-day, ground-up repeat of Des Kaisers neue Kleider (240m, 8b+), first ascended by Stefan Glowacz in the Wilder Kaiser massif in Austria in 1994.
Nicolas Favresse, Sébastien Berthe bike & climb the Alps
11/08/2020 - Climbing
Nicolas Favresse, Sébastien Berthe bike & climb the Alps
Seb Berthe and Nico Favresse are currently on a bike and climbing trip across the Alps. The Belgian climbers have made swift work of Silbergeier and Headless Children in the Rätikon massif and are now cycling towards Wilder Kaiser in Austria.
Barbara Zangerl, Jacopo Larcher make first repeats of Beat Kammerlander’s Rätikon Kampfzone
09/08/2020 - Climbing
Barbara Zangerl, Jacopo Larcher make first repeats of Beat Kammerlander’s Rätikon Kampfzone
On 06/08/2020 Barbara Zangerl made the first repeat of Kampfzone, an 8b+ multi-pitch in the Rätikon first ascended by Beat Kammerlander ground-up in 2013 and freed in 2017. Jacopo Larcher followed suit yesterday.
Federica Mingolla simply Incroyable on Mont Blanc’s Red Pillar of Brouillard
21/07/2020 - Alpinism
Federica Mingolla simply Incroyable on Mont Blanc’s Red Pillar of Brouillard
Italian mountaineer Federica Mingolla reports about the first integral ascent, with Leonardo Gheza, of Incroyable, the rock climb established just a few days ago on the Pilier Rouge du Brouillard in the Mont Blanc massif by Matteo della Bordella, François Cazzanelli and Francesco Ratti. Mingolla repeated the route a few...
Grandes Jorasses East Face new climb by Jérôme Sullivan, Jérémy Brauge, Victor Saucède
19/07/2020 - Alpinism
Grandes Jorasses East Face new climb by Jérôme Sullivan, Jérémy Brauge, Victor Saucède
French alpinist and mountain guide Jérôme Sullivan reports about Mad Max, a new route up the East Face of Grandes Jorasses in the Mont Blanc massif established from 8-9 July 2020 with Jérémy Brauge and Victor Saucède.
Massimo Bal: Barliard in the Ollomont Valley and the first ascent climbing contest
15/07/2020 - Interviews
Massimo Bal: Barliard in the Ollomont Valley and the first ascent climbing contest
Interview with mountain guide Massimo Bal, prolific setter of new routes throughout the Aosta Valley and the driving force behind the Barliard crag in Valle di Ollomont where € 1,000 worth of climbing gear can be won at the innovative first ascent climbing contest.
Piolets d'Or 2020: the big list
 of significant ascents
08/07/2020 - Alpinism
Piolets d'Or 2020: the big list
 of significant ascents
The organisers of the Piolet d’Or mountaineering award have published the complete list of most significant and innovative climbs carried out in 2019. From this they will select the recipients of the Piolets d'Or award that will be celebrated during the Ladek Mountain Festival in Poland, from 11 to 22...
Alexander Megos completes first 'brushpoint' of Frankenjura 8c
04/07/2020 - Climbing
Alexander Megos completes first 'brushpoint' of Frankenjura 8c
The video of German climber Alex Megos climbing Father and Son (8c) in Frankenjura in Germany, brushing each hold immediately after using it...
Nido di rondine at Scoglio di Boazzo in Valle di Daone, Italy
26/06/2020 - Alpinism
Nido di rondine at Scoglio di Boazzo in Valle di Daone, Italy
Francesco Salvaterra introduces the rock climb Nido di rondine, a 'forgotten gem' on Scoglio di Boazzo in Val Daone established in 1985 by Gianni Berta, G.P. Foti and Ermanno Salvaterra.
Multicolor: new multi-pitch rock climb in Val Pramper, Zoldo Dolomites
10/06/2020 - Alpinism
Multicolor: new multi-pitch rock climb in Val Pramper, Zoldo Dolomites
On Monte Petorgnon in Val Pramper in the Zoldo Dolomites, Daniele Geremia, Santiago Padrós and Fulvio Trentini have made the first ascent of Multicolor (280m, 7a+)
Climbing the Cassin - Ratti on Cima Ovest di Lavaredo, Dolomites. By Carlo Cosi
04/06/2020 - Alpinism
Climbing the Cassin - Ratti on Cima Ovest di Lavaredo, Dolomites. By Carlo Cosi
The historic Cassin - Ratti route the north face of Cima Ovest di Lavaredo in the Dolomites, established by Riccardo Cassin and Vittorio Ratti with two bivouacs from 28-30 August 1935, is a landmark in climbing history. Italian Mountain Guide Carlo Cosi recalls his summer 2019 repeat with Sara Mastel.