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Accidents in the Himalaya and helicopter rescues
30/11/2010 - Alpinism
Accidents in the Himalaya and helicopter rescues
Simone Moro discusses helicopter rescues in the Himalaya, starting with the accident on Ama Dablam which cost the lives of two of his friends, the pilot Sabin Basnyat and the rescue operator Purna Awale, on a mission to rescue the alpinists David Göttler and Hiraide Kazuya.
Gérard Pailheiret has left us
28/11/2010 - Alpinism
Gérard Pailheiret has left us
On 23/11/2010 Gérard Pailheiret, the French mountain guide and symbol and promoter of a love for ice climbing, passed away after a long illness.
Simone Moro, mountaineering, life, fears and doubts before GII this winter
25/11/2010 - Interviews
Simone Moro, mountaineering, life, fears and doubts before GII this winter
Interview with Italian mountaineer Simone Moro, two months prior to his next expedition to attempt the first winter ascent of Gasherbrum II (Karakorum, Pakistan) together with Denis Urubko.
Mescalito goes live on El Capitan for Tommy Caldwell and Kevin Jorgeson
17/11/2010 - Climbing
Mescalito goes live on El Capitan for Tommy Caldwell and Kevin Jorgeson
Tommy Caldwell and Kevin Jorgeson are currently attempting to free their Mescalito Dawn Wall project on El Capitan in Yosemite.
Die by the Drop, new E10 by Dave MacLeod in Scotland
16/11/2010 - Climbing
Die by the Drop, new E10 by Dave MacLeod in Scotland
Scottish climber Dave MacLeod has added another dangerously desperate route to the British Isles, Die by the Drop E10 7a at Glenfinnan, Scotland.
Mount Kyzyl Asker: Papert, Senf and Russegger in Kyrgyzstan
10/11/2010 - Alpinism
Mount Kyzyl Asker: Papert, Senf and Russegger in Kyrgyzstan
Ines Papert, Thomas Senf and Wolfgang Russegger have failed 200m shy of the summit in an attempt to establish a new line up Mount Kyzyl Asker, Kyrgyzstan.
The Nose, new record on El Capitan by Leary and Potter
08/11/2010 - Climbing
The Nose, new record on El Capitan by Leary and Potter
Sean Leary and Dean Potter have set a new Speed record on The Nose, El Capitan, climbing the route in 2:36:45
The Messner slab on the Sass dla Crusc, Dolomites
07/11/2010 - Alpinism
The Messner slab on the Sass dla Crusc, Dolomites
The famous section climbed by Reinhold Messner on the Pilastro di Mezzo on Sass dla Crusc (also referred to as Sasso della Croce or Heiligkreuzkofel), analysed by Heinz Mariacher. Plus the history, a video and an on-site report by Nicola Tondini.
Leo Houlding interview after The Prophet on El Capitan
01/11/2010 - Interviews
Leo Houlding interview after The Prophet on El Capitan
Interview with British climber after the first ascent of The Prophet on El Capitan, Yosemite, USA, carried out in 6 days in October 2010 with Jason Pickles and graded E9 7a, 5.13d R, 8b, 510m.
Zalia Rakhmetov, things are looking better
29/10/2010 - Climbing
Zalia Rakhmetov, things are looking better
Anna Piunova reports about the latest developments concerning Zaila Rakhmetov, the daughter of Salavat and Guzel Rakhmetov, injured in an accident in Turkey.
Joseph Puryear dies in Tibet
28/10/2010 - Alpinism
Joseph Puryear dies in Tibet
American alpinist Joseph Puryear has died in Tibet while attempting Labuche Kang (7367m) together with David Gottlieb.
Atlante Perverso, new route in Taghia, Morocco
27/10/2010 - Climbing
Atlante Perverso, new route in Taghia, Morocco
From 20 - 24 September the Italians Giovanni Ongaro, Andrea Pavan and Davide Spini (Team Altroverso) established Atlante Perverso (350m, 8a max, 7b obl.) on the north face of Monte Oujad, Taghia, in the High Atlas mountain range in Morocco.
Eiger Direttissima free, Jasper and Schaeli interview after the John Harlin route
26/10/2010 - Alpinism
Eiger Direttissima free, Jasper and Schaeli interview after the John Harlin route
From 20 - 23 September 2010 Robert Jasper from Germany and Roger Schäli from Switzerland carried out the first free ascent of the John Harlin Direttissima up the North Face of the Eiger. The duo exited via the Heckmair route and graded the undertaking Mixed M8-/rock 7a; E5; redpoint, 1800m.
Manolo sends Stramonio, Erba dei ladri in Val Noana
20/10/2010 - Climbing
Manolo sends Stramonio, Erba dei ladri in Val Noana
On 10 October 2010 Maurizio Manolo Zanolla freed Stramonio, a 30m route in Val Noana, Dolomites.
Greenland 2010 roundup and Nico Favresse interview
19/10/2010 - Alpinism
Greenland 2010 roundup and Nico Favresse interview
Interview with Belgian climber Nicolas Favresse after his three month climbing and sailing trip to Greenland.
Adam Ondra is Tough Enough on Tsaranoro in Madagascar
16/10/2010 - Climbing
Adam Ondra is Tough Enough on Tsaranoro in Madagascar
Adam Ondra has carried out the first free ascent in a single day of Tough Enough (8c, 380m) on the East Face of Karambony in Tsaranoro Valley, Madagascar. He concluded his trip by repeating Bravo les Filles (8b, 600m) and making the first free ascent of Mora Mora (8c, 700m).