218 News found
20/05/2013 - Interviews
Colonne d'Ercole, Civetta Punta Tissi, interview with Alessandro Baù Interview with Alessandro Bau about the massive new route first ascended and then freed up Punta Tissi (NW face of Civetta, Dolomites) together with Alessandro Beber and Nicola Tondini.
11/04/2013 - Climbing
Punta Giradili, Sardinia: difficult new multi-pitch rock climb Oiscura... L'eco del Baratro During three weekends between 2012 and 2013 Gianni Canale, Aldo Mazzotti, Stefano Salvaterra, Franco Cavallaro and Adriano Cavallaro made the first ascent of Oiscura... L'eco del Baratro up beautiful Punta Giradili above Baunei in Sardinia. 230m high, established ground-up, with 7c obligatory climbing and two crux pitches still to be...
12/03/2013 - Climbing
Leopoldo Faria climbs Portugal's first 9a at Sagres At the sea cliff Sagres Leopoldo Faria has made the first ascent of Peixe Porco, the first 9a sport climb in Portugal.
19/02/2013 - Climbing
Plaisir climbing on the cliffs of Masua in Sardinia Le Grand Mammut (6a+, 140m) by Bruno Fonnesu and Acciughe & Bottarga (6a, 160m) by Davide Lagomarsino and Maurizio Oviglia: two new multi-pitch rock climbs on the Masua sea cliffs in Sardinia.
31/01/2013 - Climbing
Il Maratoneta, third repeat by Ivan Lisica-Lija and a little history about this famous Manolo climb On 27/01/2013 Croatian climber Ivan Lisica-Lija made the third repeat of Il Maratoneta, the legendary route first climbed by Maurizio "Manolo" Zanolla at Paklenica (Croatia).
29/01/2013 - Climbing
The rebirth of Jerzu in Sardinia Maurizio Oviglia discusses the latest developments at Jerzu, one of the most beautiful and popular climbing areas in Sardinia.
17/12/2012 - Alpinism
Greenland, new rock climb La chute de rein In summer 2012 a group of young Swiss climbers established La chute de rein (600m, 6c, A1 pendulum) on peak Whale Top (1303m) in Southern Greenland.
30/11/2012 - Interviews
Jacopo Larcher and his 9a climbing at Red River Gorge Interview with the young Italian climber Jacopo Larcher, touching on the Red River Gorge, the Kalymnos Climbing Festival, the Dolomites and much more.
28/11/2012 - Climbing
Climbing in Finland - a short history Tommy Vänskä, co-director of the film Kylmää kiveä, retraces the history of rock climbing in Finland.
26/11/2012 - Alpinism
Aladaglar, two new Turkish rock climbs by Larcher, Giupponi, Sartori In July and August 2012 Italian climbers Rolando Larcher, Luca Giupponi and Nicola Sartori returned to Turkey's Aladaglar massif where they established and freed "Nessuno" (470m, 8a+ max, 7b obligatory) up the North Face of Cima Vay Vay and "Radio Eksen" (200m, 7c max, 7a+ obligatory) in the Cimbar Valley.
15/11/2012 - Climbing
Yosemite bolt replacement and Death Block removal Two videos by Cheyne Lempe from Yosemite concerning climbing safety: replacement of old bolts and the removal, off El Capitan, of the famous Death Block.
14/11/2012 - Climbing
Hotel Supramonte, do masterpieces age? The story of extraordinary maintenance of an extraordinary climb Maurizio Oviglia reports about the recent rebolting of the famous rock climb Hotel Supramonte. Established in 1998/99 by Rolando Larcher and Roberto Vigiani, Sardina’s famous multi-pitch has now been restored to its former glory by Larcher and Oviglia, with the new stainless steel bolts placed (obviously) in exactly the same...
31/10/2012 - Alpinism
Tommy Caldwell and his intense Rätikon and Wenden climbing tour Climbing in Europe from the point of view of ace American climber Tommy Caldwell who ascended a series of difficult multi-pitches in Rätikon, Val Bavona and Wenden, including the repeat of Portami Via which included the first ascent of a pitch variation.
24/10/2012 - Interviews
Adam Ondra - a multi-pitch interview The Czech climbing phenomenon Adam Ondra talks about competitions, his first months after high school, climbing at his limit and future projects in this detailed interview.
19/10/2012 - Climbing
New Dolomite rock climbs on Cason de Formin Two new rock climbs up the fascinating Cima Cason de Formin in the Dolomites: Buon compleanno Nat (6c+, 215m Massimo Da Pozzo, Marco Alberti, Danilo Serafini) and La beffa (7a+/7b Massimo Da Pozzo, Pier Francesco Smaltini).
05/07/2012 - Alpinism
Superbalance, Polar Sun Spire, Baffin, interview with Marek Raganowicz Interview with Polish climber Marek Raganowicz who in April and May 2012 established a new big wall climb, Superbalance (VII, A4, M7+) up Polar Sun Spire on Baffin Island together with Marcin Tomaszewski.
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