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The Grandes Jorasses serac, interview with Michèle Curtaz, Fondazione Montagna Sicura
01/10/2014 - Alpinism
The Grandes Jorasses serac, interview with Michèle Curtaz, Fondazione Montagna Sicura
On 16/09/2014, the Mayor of Courmayeur prohibited access to the path that leads to Rifugio Boccalatte and also the areas below the Whymper serac on the Grandes Jorasses. Excessive zeal on behalf of the town council, or was the serac really in danger of collapsing? Between 20 and 22 September,...
Project Fear, important new variation on Cima Ovest di Lavaredo by Dave MacLeod
22/09/2014 - Alpinism
Project Fear, important new variation on Cima Ovest di Lavaredo by Dave MacLeod
On the North Face of Cima Ovest, Tre Cime di Lavaredo (Dolomites) Dave MacLeod from Scotland has climbed Project Fear, a difficult new 130m variation that leads to the crux pitch of Pan Aroma and breaches difficulties up to 8c.
Michel Piola interview: climbing on Mont Blanc, the search and the story that continues
22/07/2014 - Interviews
Michel Piola interview: climbing on Mont Blanc, the search and the story that continues
The fabulous world of Babette, or rather Mont Blanc's marvelous granite climbing, starting from Envers des Aiguilles. Interview with Michel Piola, one of the most prolific alpinists in the world who, in more than 30 years of activity, has left an indelible mark on climbing. His routes are considered priceless,...
Alexander Megos frees Modified 9a+ in the Frankenjura
17/06/2014 - Climbing
Alexander Megos frees Modified 9a+ in the Frankenjura
German climber Alexander Megos has added two new routes to the Frankenjura, Modified 9a+ and Nice Freshly Baked 9a.
Two rock climbs in Val Mora
16/06/2014 - Alpinism
Two rock climbs in Val Mora
Beautiful Val Mora, on the border between Italys' Valtellina and Switzerland's Engadin and the story of the first ascent of two rock climbs, Gli svizzeri di qua and Mutandenbaum, by Martino Quintavalla
Tsaranoro: Dancing with the World in Madagascar
05/06/2014 - Climbing
Tsaranoro: Dancing with the World in Madagascar
In June 2013 the South African climbers Duncan Fraser, Leonard le Roux and Benjamin de Charmoy made the first ascent of Dancing with the World (350m, 6c+).
Stairway to Heaven, new route on Mt. Johnson in Alaska
30/05/2014 - Alpinism
Stairway to Heaven, new route on Mt. Johnson in Alaska
From 1 - 4 May 2014 Ryan Jennings and Kevin Cooper made the first ascent of Stairway to Heaven up the North Face of Mt. Johnson, Ruth Gorge, Alaska
David Lama, Cerro Torre and the Compressor route
19/05/2014 - Interviews
David Lama, Cerro Torre and the Compressor route
Interview with Austrian alpinist David Lama two years after the first free ascent of the Compressor route on Cerro Torre, Patagonia, carried out with Peter Ortner in January 2012.
Roland Hemetzberger frees Lichtblick 9a at Achleiten
28/03/2014 - Climbing
Roland Hemetzberger frees Lichtblick 9a at Achleiten
German climber Roland Hemetzberger has made the first ascent of Lichtblick 9a at Achleiten, Austria, before repeating Wagnis Orange, the famous sports climb established in 1988 by Gerhard Hörhager at Geisterschmiedwand.
Escalador Selvatico, new climb up Acopan Tepui in Venezuela by Larcher, Oviglia and Giupponi
20/02/2014 - Climbing
Escalador Selvatico, new climb up Acopan Tepui in Venezuela by Larcher, Oviglia and Giupponi
At the end of January and the start of February 2014 Rolando Larcher, Maurizio Oviglia and Luca Giupponi made the first ascent, and first free ascent, of Escalador Selvatico (7c+ max, 7a+ oblig, 630m) up the North Face of Akopan Tepui in Venezuela.
Piolets d'Or 2014, the big list
10/02/2014 - Events
Piolets d'Or 2014, the big list
The complete list of all 2013 ascents taken into consideration by the Piolets d'Or, from which the choice of nominees for the Piolets d'Or 2014 will be made.
B&B - Azione indecente, new dry tooling crag at Cogne
07/01/2014 - Alpinism
B&B - Azione indecente, new dry tooling crag at Cogne
Enrico Bonino introduces B & B - Azione indecente, a new dry tooling area Cogne (Aosta), Italy.
Matteo Cittadini repeats Hole's Trilogy 8c at Roccamorice
12/11/2013 - Climbing
Matteo Cittadini repeats Hole's Trilogy 8c at Roccamorice
At Roccamorice in Abruzzo, Italy, Matteo Cittadini has made the first repeat of Hole's Trilogy 8c.
Tranga Tower, Ala Daglar: two new rock climbs in Turkey
08/11/2013 - Alpinism
Tranga Tower, Ala Daglar: two new rock climbs in Turkey
In August Carlo Cosi, Enrico Geremia, Nicolò Geremia and Andrea Simonini climbed two new routes up the impressive West Face of Lower Guvercinlik (3000m), Aladaglar: Atomic Folder (600m, 7b+/c (1pA1), 7b obl, RS3) and Mostro Turco (650m, 8a (2pA1), 7b+obl, S3+).
Zeitgeist on Roßkopf, new rock climb by Haid and Klingler in Austria
19/09/2013 - Climbing
Zeitgeist on Roßkopf, new rock climb by Haid and Klingler in Austria
Markus Haid and Florian Klingler have made the first ascent of Zeitgeist (300m, 7c+, 7b obligatory) up Roßkopf, Rofangebirge, Austria.
Invisibilis on Marmolada, the long history of a new route by Larcher and Vergoni
27/08/2013 - Alpinism
Invisibilis on Marmolada, the long history of a new route by Larcher and Vergoni
Rolando Larcher and Geremia Vergoni recount the birth of Invisibilis (405m, 7c+ max, 7a+ obl.), the new route established over 5 days from 2009 to 2011 up the south face of Marmolada di Ombretta (Dolomites) and freed by Vergoni on 26/06/2012 and repeated by Larcher on 11/09/2012. A route that...

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