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Via Cembridge, first winter ascent by Giupponi, Larcher and Leoni
22/03/2012 - Alpinism
Via Cembridge, first winter ascent by Giupponi, Larcher and Leoni
From 25 - 27 January 2012 Luca Giupponi, Rolando Larcher and Fabio Leoni carried out the first winter ascent (and first on-sight) of Via Cembridge (550m, 7b+ (6c obligatory) up Cima Margherita, Brenta Dolomites, Italy.
Gasherbrum I, historic Polish first winter ascent and drama for Göschl, Hussain and Hahlen
12/03/2012 - Alpinism
Gasherbrum I, historic Polish first winter ascent and drama for Göschl, Hussain and Hahlen
At 08:30 local time on 09/03/2012 the summit of Gasherbrum 1 (Karakorum, Pakistan) was reached for the first time in winter by the Polish mountaineers Adam Bielecki and Janusz Golab. On the same day the alpinists Gerfried Göschl, Nisar Hussain and Cedric Hahlen were seen for the last time on...
Cerro Autana, new route The Yopo Wall in Venezuela
10/03/2012 - Climbing
Cerro Autana, new route The Yopo Wall in Venezuela
From January 28 – February 5 2012 Leo Houlding, Jason Pickles, Sean Leary, Alastair Lee, Yupi Rangel, Alejandro Lamus established The Yopo Wall (400m, E6 6b, A1) up Cerro Autana in Venezuela.
Kids With Guns, new big wall on Amuri Tepui in Venezuela
08/03/2012 - Climbing
Kids With Guns, new big wall on Amuri Tepui in Venezuela
In February 2012 George Ullrich (UK), Sam Farnsworth (UK) Siebe Vanhee (Belgium) and Mason Earle (USA) established Kids With Guns (5.13a, A3, E6 6c) a new climb up the Amuri Tepui mountain in Venezuela.
Cerro Torre an impossible mountain, the petition in favour of the bolt chopping
20/02/2012 - Alpinism
Cerro Torre an impossible mountain, the petition in favour of the bolt chopping
The petition, promoted by Rolando Garibotti, concerning the recent bolt chopping of the Compressor Route on Cerro Torre, Patagonia by the Americans Hayden Kennedy and Jason Kruk.
Nanga Parbat winter expedition: Moro and Urubko abandon attempt
14/02/2012 - Alpinism
Nanga Parbat winter expedition: Moro and Urubko abandon attempt
Simone Moro and Denis Urubko have announced their decision today to abandon their attempt of the first winter ascent of Nanga Parbat (Pakistan) via the Diamir Face due to the prohibitive weather conditions.
Markus Bendler and the Ice Prince Movieblog
10/02/2012 - Climbing
Markus Bendler and the Ice Prince Movieblog
The first of 10 videos of Austrian ice climbing champion Markus Bendler.
Cerro Torre bolt chopping, the debate in Italy
09/02/2012 - Alpinism
Cerro Torre bolt chopping, the debate in Italy
With regards to the bolt chopping on Cerro Torre's Compressor route, we have received and published the views of Stefano Lovison, shared by numerous Italian alpinists.
Nanga Parbat Winter Expedition, dispatch #4
30/01/2012 - Alpinism
Nanga Parbat Winter Expedition, dispatch #4
The fourth video of the Nanga Parbat 2012 winter expedition of Simone Moro and Denis Urubko.
Natalija Gros retires from competition climbing
26/01/2012 - Competitions
Natalija Gros retires from competition climbing
Natalija Gros has officially retired from climbing competitions. During her career the Slovenian climber stepped onto the World Cup podium 23 times and one of the highlights includes winning the European Bouldering and Combined Championship in Paris in 2008.
David Lama talks about the first free ascent of the Compressor Route on Cerro Torre
24/01/2012 - Alpinism
David Lama talks about the first free ascent of the Compressor Route on Cerro Torre
The report by David Lama about his first free ascent of the Compressor route up the SE Ridge of Cerro Torre (Patagonia), carried out by the Austrian climber from 20 - 21 January 2012.
Nanga Parbat in winter, the route upwards for Moro and Urubko
20/01/2012 - Alpinism
Nanga Parbat in winter, the route upwards for Moro and Urubko
News from Nanga Parbat: Simone Moro and Denis Urubko continue to explore their hopes and the mountain itself. Yesterday they ventured to beyond 5800m to reach the base of the couloir which they will attempt to climb via their (new) route to the summit.
Mario Merelli, goodbye to the alpinist from Bergamo
18/01/2012 - Alpinism
Mario Merelli, goodbye to the alpinist from Bergamo
18/01/2012. Mario Merelli died this morning at 8:00am while climbing up Pizzo Redorta (Val Seriana, Bergamo, Italy). Merelli was one of the most famous Italian alpinists and Himalayan mountaineers and one of the driving forces of the Bergamo mountaineering scene.
Aconcagua South Face: the ascent by Andrea Di Donato and Andres Zegers
14/01/2012 - Alpinism
Aconcagua South Face: the ascent by Andrea Di Donato and Andres Zegers
On 22,23,24 December 2011 the Italian Mountain Guide Andrea Di Donato and the alpinist from Chile Andres Zegers ascended the South Face of Aconcagua (6962m, Andes, Argentina), establishing a probable 800m new start variation to the Direct French route.
Nanga Parbat in winter, Moro and Urubko aim to climb route attempted by Messner and Eisendle
13/01/2012 - Alpinism
Nanga Parbat in winter, Moro and Urubko aim to climb route attempted by Messner and Eisendle
On 12/01/2012 Simone Moro and Denis Urubko acclimatised at 5400m on the Diamir Face of Nanga Parbat. Their attempt at the first winter ascent of Nanga Parbat will be via the line attempted by Messner and Eisendle in 2000, and not via the Kinshofer route.
Adam Ondra, the routes I cannot climb!
12/01/2012 - Interviews
Adam Ondra, the routes I cannot climb!
Czech climber Adam Ondra talks to Planetmountain about the sport climbs he has failed to climb. Hubble, Three Degrees of Separation, Underground and many more.