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Alaska's autumn nets two big new climbs in Hayes Range
26/11/2020 - Alpinism
Alaska's autumn nets two big new climbs in Hayes Range
Benjamin Lieber reports about two big new climbs ascended in Alaska’s Hayes Range: DeWilde Style (800m AI4+) up the SE Face of Peak 9,250ft with Alex Hansen and Longing For Light (700m AI5) on the NE Shoulder of Mount Moffit climbed above the Trident Glacier with Hansen and Austin Schmitz.
Stefano Ghisolfi - The Way to Change
26/11/2020 - Climbing
Stefano Ghisolfi - The Way to Change
The first three episodes produced by Stefano Ghisolfi and Sara Grippo documenting the Italian’s repeat of Change, the world’s first 9b+ located at Flatanger in Norway.
Viktoriia Meshkova, Sascha Lehmann European Lead Champions 2020
25/11/2020 - Competitions
Viktoriia Meshkova, Sascha Lehmann European Lead Champions 2020
In Moscow earlier today Viktoriia Meshkova from Russia and Sascha Lehmann from Switzerland won the 2020 European Lead Championship.
Dolomites Pale di San Lucano: big new climb by Martin Dejori, Titus Prinoth, Alex Walpoth
25/11/2020 - Alpinism
Dolomites Pale di San Lucano: big new climb by Martin Dejori, Titus Prinoth, Alex Walpoth
The South Tyrolean mountaineers Alex Walpoth, Titus Prinoth and Martin Dejori have made the first ascent of Guardiano dei Sogni on Terza Pala di San Lucano, Pale di San Lucano, Dolomites. This big, 1400m new route was established with three bivouacs.
24 hours of freedom on Sagwand in Valsertal by Martin Feistl, Sven Brand
24/11/2020 - Alpinism
24 hours of freedom on Sagwand in Valsertal by Martin Feistl, Sven Brand
In mid-November 2020 Martin Feistl and Sven Brand in Valsertal, Austria, made the first ascent of 24 hours of freedom (300m, M6, WI 4, X) on the north face of Sagwand. This is a direct start to Rampenführe, the original line up the face, and shares a short section with...
Fred Rouhling's Akira finally repeated after 25 years by Sébastien Bouin, Lucien Martinez
23/11/2020 - Climbing
Fred Rouhling's Akira finally repeated after 25 years by Sébastien Bouin, Lucien Martinez
Akira, the famous sport climb established by Fred Rouhling in 1995, has finally been repeated for the first time by Sébastien Bouin and Lucien Martinez. According to the two young Frenchmen the route is a difficult 9a, and not 9b as suggested by Rouhling 25 years ago.
Laura Rogora repeats The Bow 9a+ at Arco, Julia Chanourdie and Eva Hammelmüller send 8c+
23/11/2020 - Climbing
Laura Rogora repeats The Bow 9a+ at Arco, Julia Chanourdie and Eva Hammelmüller send 8c+
Yesterday at Padaro in Arco, Italy, Laura Rogora claimed the first repeat of The Bow, a 9a+ established in July by Stefano Ghisolfi. Julia Chanourdie and Eva Hammelmüller for their part have both repeated 8c+.
Ekaterina Barashchuk, Danyil Boldyrev crowned European Speed Champions in Moscow
22/11/2020 - Competitions
Ekaterina Barashchuk, Danyil Boldyrev crowned European Speed Champions in Moscow
Ekaterina Barashchuk from Russia and Danyil Boldyrev from the Ukraine were crowned European Speed Champions in Moscow, Russia, yesterday after beating Elizaveta Ivanov and Lev Rudatskiy. The bronze medal was won by Iuliia Kaplina and Marcin Dzienski. Kaplina set a new Speed World Record in the qualification round, stopping the...
Alexander Huber, Guido Unterwurzacher free Magellan on Urlkopf in Austria
22/11/2020 - Alpinism
Alexander Huber, Guido Unterwurzacher free Magellan on Urlkopf in Austria
Last August Alexander Huber and Guido Unterwurzacher made the first free ascent of Magellan, a 15-year-old project on Urlkopf close to Loferer Alm in Austria. Huber reports.
Climbing on Greenland's Sharks Tooth: the film featuring Matteo Della Bordella, Silvan Schüpbach, Christian Ledergerber
21/11/2020 - Alpinism
Climbing on Greenland's Sharks Tooth: the film featuring Matteo Della Bordella, Silvan Schüpbach, Christian Ledergerber
Tonight at 8.00 pm the film 'The Great Shark Hunt: Climb and kayak in Greenland', documenting the by fair means climbing expedition to Greenland carried out in 2014 by Matteo Della Bordella, Silvan Schüpbach and Christian Ledergerber.
Mélissa Le Nevé Action Directe trailer
20/11/2020 - Climbing
Mélissa Le Nevé Action Directe trailer
The trailer of the film that documents Melissa Le Nevé making the first female ascent of Action Directe, the world’s most revered 9a put up by Wolfgang Güllich in the Frankenjura
Sébastien Berthe sends his first 9a+, Super-Crackinette at St. Leger
20/11/2020 - Climbing
Sébastien Berthe sends his first 9a+, Super-Crackinette at St. Leger
Belgian climber Seb Berthe reports about his first 9a+ redpoint, Super-Crackinette at Saint-Léger-du-Ventoux in France. Success came about after a relentless summer on some of the hardest multi-pitch climbs across the Alps.
Josef Pfnür makes first repeat of Thomas Huber's 8b+ multipitch Stone Age
18/11/2020 - Climbing
Josef Pfnür makes first repeat of Thomas Huber's 8b+ multipitch Stone Age
German climber Josef Pfnür has made the first repeat of Stone Age, established by Thomas Huber on Untersberg in the Berchtesgaden Alps, Germany in 2019
Sagzahn Verschneidung, first repeat in Valsertal by Martin Feistl, David Bruder
18/11/2020 - Alpinism
Sagzahn Verschneidung, first repeat in Valsertal by Martin Feistl, David Bruder
On 11 November 2020 Martin Feistl and David Bruder made the first repeat and first free ascent of Sagzahnverschneidung, the difficult mixed route in the Valsertal in Austria established in 2018 by David Lama and Peter Mühlberger.
Dani Arnold Expedition Baikal film première tonight at 20

17/11/2020 - Alpinism
Dani Arnold Expedition Baikal film première tonight at 20

Tonight at 20:00 CET the première of the film Expedition Baikal that documents the expedition carried out by Swiss mountaineer Dani Arnold to Lake Baikal in the heart of Siberia.
Leap of Faith freed on Poncione d'Alnasca by Matteo Della Bordella, Alessandro Zeni
17/11/2020 - Alpinism
Leap of Faith freed on Poncione d'Alnasca by Matteo Della Bordella, Alessandro Zeni
Italian climbers Matteo Della Bordella and Alessandro Zeni have made the first free ascent of Leap of Faith (8a+/b max, 7b+ obligatory, 500m), a big new multi-pitch up Poncione d'Alnasca in Switzerland.