Home page Planetmountain.com
Robert Jasper making his rope solo first ascent of Meltdown up the north face of the Eiger
Photo by Nicolas Hojac
Robert Jasper making his rope solo first ascent of Meltdown up the north face of the Eiger. The route tackles an independent line, is protected with trad gear, pegs and the occasional bolt, and was ascended rope solo and all free in a day by Jasper on 23 July 2019.
Photo by Nicolas Hojac
Robert Jasper making his rope solo first ascent of Meltdown up the north face of the Eiger. The new rock climb is noteworthy, not so much because of the difficulties (which nevertheless check in at about 7a+), but because the German mountain guide established and subsequently freed the 11-pitch outing completely on his own
Photo by Nicolas Hojac
Robert Jasper making his rope solo first ascent of Meltdown up the north face of the Eiger
Photo by Nicolas Hojac

Eiger North Face Meltdown established rope solo by Robert Jasper

by

German mountain guide Robert Jasper has made a rope solo first ascent of Meltdown up the North Face of the Eiger in Switzerland.

Robert Jasper has completed a new rock climb up the North Face of the Eiger in Switzerland’s Bernese Oberland called Meltdown. The addition is noteworthy, not so much because of the difficulties (which nevertheless check in at about 7a+), but because the German mountain guide established and subsequently freed the 11-pitch outing completely on his own.

Applying rope solo techniques that he has used successfully used for over 30 years - the mixed climb Flying Circus at Breitwangfluh and the huge multi-pitch Stonecircle up Molar Spire in Greenland are only two of the most recent examples - Jasper forged his route up the right-hand side of the Geneva Pillar, I.e. up the extreme right-hand side of the Ogre’s north face.

Japer's initial foray dates back to about 10 years ago, but his focus soon shifted towards making the first free ascents of the Japanese Diretissima, the Piola - Ghilini Diretissima and the John Harlin route. Having encountered excellent rock though and needing to prepare for his upcoming expedition to Patagonia, the 51-year-old mountaineer decided to invest another 5 days of work in completing the line ground-up. The route tackles an independent line, is protected with trad gear, pegs and the occasional bolt, and was ascended rope solo and all free in a day by Jasper on 23 July 2019.

His first climb up the Eiger dates back to 1985 as a 17-year-old and, after spending over 360 days on the Eiger north face during his career, Jasper is in a unique position to notice the effects of climate change. "I’ve called my new route Meltdown because I’m alarmed at how rapidly the ice and snowfields are transforming. During the last summers the snowfields had completely vanished for the first time in mountaineering history. It really is time for all of us to do our bit and take steps towards battling climate change. Otherwise it will be too late, not only for our mountains, but also for our future!"

Robert Jasper thanks Petzl, Lowa, Marmot, Gore-Tex, Mühle Glashütte, Naturenergie

Links: www.robert-jasper.deFB Robert Jasper

Share


NEWS / Related news:
Robert Jasper completes Stonecircle on Greenland solo trip
31.08.2018
Robert Jasper completes Stonecircle on Greenland solo trip
German rock climber Robert Jasper has returned from his solo expedition to Greenland after having made the first ascent of Stonecircle (7c, 450m) up Molar Spire above the Angmassalik-Tasilaq Fjord.
Robert Jasper solo climbing expedition to Greenland
01.08.2018
Robert Jasper solo climbing expedition to Greenland
Interview with German alpinist Robert Jasper who is currently on a by fair means solo climbing trip to Greenland.
Robert Jasper Flying Circus rope solo video
12.03.2018
Robert Jasper Flying Circus rope solo video
The video of Robert Jasper making a rope solo, free ascent the famous mixed climb Flying Circus at Breitwangfluh in Switzerland.
Robert Jasper makes rope solo of Flying Circus at Breitwangfluh
06.03.2018
Robert Jasper makes rope solo of Flying Circus at Breitwangfluh
High up on the Breitwangfluh in Switzerland’s Bernese Oberland German alpinist Robert Jasper has made a rope solo, free ascent of his world famous mixed climb Flying Circus.
Robert Jasper Flying Circus rope solo video
12.03.2018
Robert Jasper Flying Circus rope solo video
The video of Robert Jasper making a rope solo, free ascent the famous mixed climb Flying Circus at Breitwangfluh in Switzerland.
Robert Jasper and Stefan Glowacz climb Baffin Island The Turret by fair means
09.08.2016
Robert Jasper and Stefan Glowacz climb Baffin Island The Turret by fair means
German alpinists Robert Jasper and Stefan Glowacz and photographer Klaus Fengler have just returned from an expedition to Baffin Island where, on the West Face of The Turret, they managed to repeat and add new free variations to Nuvualik, the climb established in June 1995 by Warren Hollinger, Jerry Gore and Mark Synnott. The German's ascent was carried out in their habitual hallmark by-fair means style.
Odyssee, the hardest route on the Eiger North Face by Roger Schaeli, Robert Jasper and Simon Gietl
25.09.2015
Odyssee, the hardest route on the Eiger North Face by Roger Schaeli, Robert Jasper and Simon Gietl
An international trio comprised of Roger Schäli (Switzerland), Robert Jasper (Germany) and Simon Gietl (Italy) have established Odyssee (8a+, 1400m), a difficult and serious new rock climb up the North Face of the Eiger in Switzerland.
Robert Jasper climbs The Black Death at Kandersteg
06.01.2014
Robert Jasper climbs The Black Death at Kandersteg
At Kandersteg in Switzerland Robert Jasper and Wolfram Liebich have made the first ascent of The Black Death, a new ice and mixed route graded WI7/M8, E5, 250m.
Eiger Piola - Ghilini Direttissima, first free ascent by Japer and Schäli
28.08.2013
Eiger Piola - Ghilini Direttissima, first free ascent by Japer and Schäli
On 2 August Roger Schäli and Robert Jasper made the first free ascent of the Piola - Ghilini Direttissima (1400m, 7c) on the north face of the Eiger.
Shark's Fin in Chile by Jasper, Heller and Gantzhorn
08.05.2012
Shark's Fin in Chile by Jasper, Heller and Gantzhorn
In April 2012 Robert Jasper, Jörn Heller and Ralf Gantzhorn carried out the first ascent of the Shark's Fin Ridge. The route climbs the west face of Monte Giordano (1517m, Chile), a mountain which in all likelihood has never been climbed previously.
Eiger Direttissima free, Jasper and Schaeli interview after the John Harlin route
30.10.2010
Eiger Direttissima free, Jasper and Schaeli interview after the John Harlin route
From 20 - 23 September 2010 Robert Jasper from Germany and Roger Schäli from Switzerland carried out the first free ascent of the John Harlin Direttissima up the North Face of the Eiger. The duo exited via the Heckmair route and graded the undertaking Mixed M8-/rock 7a; E5; redpoint, 1800m.
Eiger North Face, Japanese Diretissima freed by Jasper and Schäli
18.09.2009
Eiger North Face, Japanese Diretissima freed by Jasper and Schäli
Robert Jasper from Germany and Roger Schäli from Switzerland have made the first free ascent of the famous "Japanese Diretissima" on the North Face of Eiger. The route now goes free at 8a and is a very serious alpine undertaking indeed.
17.11.2005
Glowacz and Jasper summit Murallon!
Stefan Glowacz and Robert Jasper have completed their "Vom Winde verweht" up the North Pillar of Murallón, Patagonia.

SEARCH news

ZONE

CATEGORY

Full text search

AUTHOR

EXPO / Products
EXPO / Company News
Planetmountain.com logo
Planetmountain.com is updated daily: news, rock climbing, walks, trekking, alpinism, freeride skiing, ski mountaineering, snowboarding and ice climbing on the mountains worldwide. Furthermore, climbing techniques explained, gear & book reviews, expert advice, mountain photography, interviews and competition reports.
NEWSLETTER

Subscriber to receive the weekly newsletter with all the latest news from planetmountain.com

CLASSIFIEDS
Recent Comments Ice
  • L'uomo Volante
    Il 10 giugno 2017, insieme all'amico Michele, decidiamo di r ...
    2017-07-12 / Enrico Maioni
  • Gallo George
    Il 16 luglio 2016, invogliati dalla relazione, ci siamo avve ...
    2017-07-12 / Enrico Maioni
  • All-in
    Francesco Salvaterra e Filippo Mosca 27 gennaio 2017, probab ...
    2017-02-02 / Francesco Salvaterra
  • Una via per te fatta in tre
    Prima ripetizione effettuata il 3/11. Da rettificare la diff ...
    2015-11-13 / maurizio piller%20hoffer