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Pelmo North Face winter ascent. A climbing story for commanders only
29/09/2015 - Alpinism
Pelmo North Face winter ascent. A climbing story for commanders only
Ivo Ferrari retraces the winter repeat of the Pelmo North Face, carried out in the Dolomites by Soro Dorotei, Renato Panciera and Giuliano De Marchi. One of the most memorable stories of alpinism and winter mountaineering
Cerro Torre and the 1985 first winter ascent
23/07/2015 - Alpinism
Cerro Torre and the 1985 first winter ascent
It's currently winter in Patagonia. Exactly 30 years ago, in July 1985, the Italians Paolo Caruso, Maurizio Giarolli, Andrea Sarchi and Ermanno Salvaterra carried out the historic first winter ascent of Cerro Torre via the 'Compressor route' established by Cesare Maestri up the East Ridge. Here is a short film...
Grand Combin de Grafenière snowboarding trilogy
Grand Combin de Grafenière snowboarding trilogy
Davide Capozzi reports about three first snowboard descents on Grand Combin de Grafenière, carried out with Julien Herry and Denis Trento.
The King: the first time up the Monviso Coolidge Couloir, by Ivo Ferrari
21/05/2015 - Alpinism
The King: the first time up the Monviso Coolidge Couloir, by Ivo Ferrari
The North Face of Monviso (3841m) and its Coolidge Gully, one of those climbs "I'd always like to do." By Ivo Ferrari
Pain de Sucre and the Voie Originale descent by Capozzi, Herry and Civra Dano
Pain de Sucre and the Voie Originale descent by Capozzi, Herry and Civra Dano
David Capozzi reports about the 10 May first snowboard and ski descent, carried out together with Julien Herry and Francesco Civra Dano, of the entire Voie Originale down the North Face of Pain de Sucre, Mont Blanc.
Breche Victor Chaud - Couloir Pèlas Verney
Breche Victor Chaud - Couloir Pèlas Verney
The magnificent ski descent down Couloir Pèlas Verney on Breche Victor Chaud (3142m) in France's Écrins massif. By Mattia Salvi.
XX Mezzalama behind the scenes...
XX Mezzalama behind the scenes...
The 'behind the scenes' insight written by Marco Spataro, one of the many mountain guides and pros involved in safety preparations of the twentieth edition of Mezzalama, the legendary ski mountaineering competition on Monte Rosa, won last Saturday by Michele Boscacci, Matteo Eydallin and Damiano Lenzi and by Emelie Forsberg,...
XX Mezzalama legendary ski mountaineering Saturday 25 April
20/04/2015 - Competitions
XX Mezzalama legendary ski mountaineering Saturday 25 April
The XX Mezzalama, the legendary ski mountaineering competition in the Monte Rosa massif, takes place on 25 April 2015. Marco Spataro reports.
Heart and muscles: Mont Blanc on foot and by bike
15/04/2015 - Alpinism
Heart and muscles: Mont Blanc on foot and by bike
From Padua, close to Venice, all the way to the summit of Mont Blanc: a bicycle ride that culminated on the summit of the symbol of mountaineering. A great adventure experienced at just the right speed which, three summers down the line, still lives on in the memories of the...
Piolet d'Or 2015: the grande finale at Courmayeur
13/04/2015 - Alpinism
Piolet d'Or 2015: the grande finale at Courmayeur
On Saturday 11 April the awards ceremony of the 23rd Piolets d'Or, the Oscars of alpinism, were held at Courmayeur, Italy. Americans Tommy Caldwell and Alex Honnold, Russians Aleksander Gukov and Aleksey Lonchinsky and Slovenians Marko Prezelj, Ales Cesen and Luka Lindic were awarded the Piolet d'Or 2015. Britain’s Chris...
A Dolomite DOC climb reinterpreted in winter
17/03/2015 - Alpinism
A Dolomite DOC climb reinterpreted in winter
Francesco Salvaterra reports about the winter ascent, carried out together with Marcello Cominetti, of Hrushka up the East Face of Mur de Pisciadù, Sella, Dolomites, Italy.
Tom Ballard solos the Allain - Leininger route up the Petit Dru North Face
16/03/2015 - Alpinism
Tom Ballard solos the Allain - Leininger route up the Petit Dru North Face
British alpinist Tom Ballard has climbed the Allain - Leininger route up the North Face of the Petit Dru (3,733m) in the Mont Blanc massif. This is his fifth climb of his Starlight and Storm project that aims to climb the six great North Faces of the Alps in winter,...
Shivling, the perfect attempt by Daniela Teixeira and Paulo Roxo
08/03/2015 - Alpinism
Shivling, the perfect attempt by Daniela Teixeira and Paulo Roxo
The report by Portugese climbers Daniela Teixeira and Paulo Roxo about their autumn 2014 attempt to forge a new route up Shivling in the Indian Himalayas.
Tom Ballard: Matterhorn North Face in winter via the Schmidt route
13/02/2015 - Alpinism
Tom Ballard: Matterhorn North Face in winter via the Schmidt route
On 10 February 2015 British alpinist Tom Ballard climbed the Schmidt route up the North Face of the Matterhorn in 2 hours and 59 minutes. After Cima Grande di Lavaredo in the Dolomites and Pizzo Badile, this is another climb in his project Starlight and Storm that aims to climb...
Massimo Piras and his timeless love for ice climbing
09/02/2015 - Alpinism
Massimo Piras and his timeless love for ice climbing
The portrait of Massimo Piras, 62-year-old Italian alpinist, instructor at the Scuola Gervasutti di Torino, Academic of the Italian Alpine Club with over 100 new ice climbs to his name during 35 year of continues ice climbing. By Edoardo Falletta.
Sappada abseil stations replaced on ice climbs
06/02/2015 - Alpinism
Sappada abseil stations replaced on ice climbs
At Sappada, Northern Italy, the local mountain guides have replaced the abseil belays of more than 50 ice falls. The report by Pierpaolo Pedrini

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