235 News found

Ice climbing in the Dolomites: an unknown ice climb, highly recommended by Simon Gietl and Andrea Oberbacher, up Torre Vitty in the Sella massif.

Yesterday at the drytooling crag Tomorrow’s World in the Dolomites Angelika Rainer repeated A Line Above the Sky. With this ascent the climber from the South Tyrol has become the first woman in the world to climb D15 and, in doing so, she has equalled the maximum difficulty ever climbed...

In July 2017 a Chilean expedition comprised of Andres Bosch, Alejandro Mora and Armando Montero has made two first ascents close to Broad Peak and K2 in Pakistan’s Karakorum range: Praqpa Ri South 7046m and the new route Mirchi up Norit Peak, 6270m.

Interview with American alpinist Katie Bono who on 13-14 June 2017 ascended and descended the West Buttress route on Denali (McKinley) in just 21 hours and 6 minutes. This is a female speed record and one of the fastest known times to date.

At the end of March 2017 Denis Trento made what might well be the first integral ski descent of the SW Couloir of Pointe Whymper. The video and report of the Italian mountain guide and extreme skier about this ski descent which, in particular the final 400m, has probably never...

In February 2017 Angelika Rainer from the South Tyrol repeated French Connection at the crag Tomorrow's World in the Italian Dolomites. Graded D15-, it is considered one of the hardest total dry routes in the world.

American alpinist Jeff Lowe has been awarded the Piolets d'Or Lifetime Achievement Award. The prize will be assigned during the 25th edition of the mountaineering prize that will be celebrated in Grenoble, France, from 12 - 15 April. In the past the prize has been awarded to Walter Bonatti, Reinhold...

Spanish mountaineers Iker Pou and Eneko Pou have established a new mixed climb up the East Face of Aguja Guillaumet in Patagonia. Called 'Aupa 40', the 525m outing breaches difficulties up to 5+, M7 85˚.

Last weekend South Korea’s Han Na Rai Song and HeeYong Park won the fourth and penultimate stage of the Ice Climbing World Cup 2017 in Saas Fee, Switzerland. The Speed event was won by the Russians Vladimir Kartashev and Ekaterina Koshcheeva.

On 16/11/2016 Marcel Schenk and Simon Gietl made the first ascent of 'Amore di Vetro' (800m, M5, R) a new ice and mixed climb up the NE Face of Pizzo Badile.

Enrico Bonino talks about a modern interpretation of the Salluard climbs (plus variations) up the West Face of Aguille d'Entrèves in the Mont Blanc massif. The route was climbed in two stages, on 20/10/2016 by Enrico Bonino and Andrea Racchelli, and completed on 22/10/2016 by Bonino together with Ilaria Sonatore...

The high-pressure system, an unbridled love for the mountains, a fortnight, one tent and the thirst for a simple and wandering form of alpinism, with all Mont Blanc's summits and thousands of wonders in this alpine playground. This is the story of a mountaineering trip carried out by Giovanni Zaccaria...

Swiss climber Nina Caprez reports about her July 2016 ascent, carried out with Merlin Benoit, of 'Divine Providence' (ED+, 7b+, 900m) up Grand Pilier d’Angle, Mont Blanc. This is likely to be the first free female ascent of this route established from 5 -8 July 1984 by Patrick Gabarrou and...

In Patagonia Canadian alpinist Marc-André Leclerc has made the first solo winter ascent of Torre Egger (2685m).

Italy's Oliviero Bosatelli and Lisa Borzani were in the lead last night at the end of the third day of Tor des Géants 2016.

Interview with Simon Richardson who, together with Michael Rinn, made the first ascent of Diamond Ridge (1600m, 5c, AO) from 28 - 30 July 2016. This new alpine climb breaches the SSE Face of Grandes Jorasses (Mont Blanc massif).