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K2, all 10 summiters of historic first winter ascent safely back in base camp
17/01/2021 - Alpinism
K2, all 10 summiters of historic first winter ascent safely back in base camp
All ten Nepalese mountaineers who climbed K2 for the first time in winter yesterday have returned safely to base camp. The news was announced by expedition leader Chhang Dawa Sherpa.
K2 in winter, decisive phase begins in earnest
15/01/2021 - Alpinism
K2 in winter, decisive phase begins in earnest
The attempt to climb K2 in winter is entering the decisive moments, with Camp 4 installed at 7800 meters by the various Sherpa teams led by Nirmal Purja, Mingma Gyalje Sherpa and Seven Summit Treks.
Etienne Bernard, goodbye to the young alpinist from Val di Fassa, Dolomites
14/01/2021 - Alpinism
Etienne Bernard, goodbye to the young alpinist from Val di Fassa, Dolomites
Etienne Bernard, the 27-year-old ski instructor, mountain guide and mountaineer from Val di Fassa, perished in an avalanche yesterday on Mount Pordoi (Dolomites, Italy).
K2 in winter without supplementary oxygen - possible or impossible?
14/01/2021 - Alpinism
K2 in winter without supplementary oxygen - possible or impossible?
German journalist Stefan Nestler examines the physiological difficulties associated with climbing K2 in winter without supplemental oxygen. Originally published on his website, Nestler has kindly allowed his text to be republished on planetmountain.com.
Martin Stráník solves Teorie Tygra 8B+ beneath heavy snowfall at Vesec
13/01/2021 - Climbing
Martin Stráník solves Teorie Tygra 8B+ beneath heavy snowfall at Vesec
Beneath a heavy snowfall Czech rock climber Martin Stráník has made the first ascent of Teorie Tygra, an 8B+ boulder problem at Vesec in the Czech Republic.
Video: Dave Macleod winter climbing in Scotland
12/01/2021 - Alpinism
Video: Dave Macleod winter climbing in Scotland
The video of Dave Macleod making the first ascent of the mixed climb Nevermore on Ben Nevis, followed by two other first winter ascents in the Glen Coe area of Scotland.
Space Force created in Val Bavona by Alexandra Schweikart and Christopher Igel
12/01/2021 - Climbing
Space Force created in Val Bavona by Alexandra Schweikart and Christopher Igel
German climbers Alexandra Schweikart and Christopher Igel have established Space Force (8a+/230m) a new multi-pitch climb in Valle Bavona, Ticino, Switzerland.
Luza Peak in Nepal first ascent by young Sherpa team
12/01/2021 - Alpinism
Luza Peak in Nepal first ascent by young Sherpa team
The 5726m high pyramidal Luza Peak in the Khumbu region of the Nepal was climbed for the first time at the end of 2020 by a young trio of Sherpa comprised of Pemba Sharwa Sherpa, Urken Sherpa and Lhakpa Gyaljen Sherpa. Pemba Sherpa reports about the ascent and gives interesting...
Stefano Ghisolfi establishes Erebor, at 9b/+ the hardest climb in Italy
11/01/2021 - Climbing
Stefano Ghisolfi establishes Erebor, at 9b/+ the hardest climb in Italy
Stefano Ghisolfi has made the first ascent of Erebor at Eremo di San Paolo close to Arco. Graded 9b/+, this is currently the most difficult sport climb in Italy.
Stalingrad, new Kingline in Karwendel climbed by David Bruder, Martin Feistl
08/01/2021 - Alpinism
Stalingrad, new Kingline in Karwendel climbed by David Bruder, Martin Feistl
On 20 and 21 December 2020 German alpinists David Bruder and Martin Feistl made the first ascent of Stalingrad, a 1000m route between Grubenkarspitze (2663m) and Plattenspitze (2492m) in the Karwendel massif in Austria.
More steep skiing explored in the Dolomites
More steep skiing explored in the Dolomites
In 2020 Francesco Vascellari and Loris De Barba made what is likely to be the first ski descent of the South Face of Cima Ambrizzola in the Dolomites. A few months later they concluded another project with Davide D'Alpaos, namely the probable first descent of the west face of Croda...
Farewell to George Whitmore, pioneer of The Nose on El Capitan
05/01/2021 - Climbing
Farewell to George Whitmore, pioneer of The Nose on El Capitan
American rock climber George Whitmore has died at the age of 89. Together with Wayne Merry and Warren Harding he made the first ascent of The Nose on El Capitan in Yosemite in 1958.
Arcadia, the new crag at Leonidio in Greece
04/01/2021 - Climbing
Arcadia, the new crag at Leonidio in Greece
Aris Theodoropoulos introduces Arcadia, a brilliant new crag close to Leonidio in Greece.
Video: Luca Rinaldi sending Power of Now 8C at Magic Wood
03/01/2021 - Climbing
Video: Luca Rinaldi sending Power of Now 8C at Magic Wood
The video on Luca Rinaldi repeating Power of Now, the 8C boulder problem established by Giuliano Cameroni at Magic Wood in Switzerland.
Cédric Lachat repeats Super Crackinette 9a+ at Saint Léger
31/12/2020 - Climbing
Cédric Lachat repeats Super Crackinette 9a+ at Saint Léger
Switzerland’s Cédric Lachat has climbed his seventh 9a+, Super-Crackinette at Saint Léger du Ventoux in France.
New bold Scottish winter climb on Church Door Buttress by Greg Boswell, Hamish Frost, Graham McGrath
30/12/2020 - Alpinism
New bold Scottish winter climb on Church Door Buttress by Greg Boswell, Hamish Frost, Graham McGrath
Climbing with Hamish Frost and Graham McGrath, Greg Boswell has established False Penance, another bold new winter climb to Church Door Buttress on Bidean nam Bian close to Glen Coe in Scotland.