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Ines Papert, Luka Lindič score first repeat of Selvaggia sorte up Cima Tosa in Brenta Dolomites
11/01/2019 - Alpinism
Ines Papert, Luka Lindič score first repeat of Selvaggia sorte up Cima Tosa in Brenta Dolomites
Brenta Dolomites winter climbing: on 01/01/2018 alpinists Ines Papert and Luka Lindič have made the first repeat of Selvaggia sorte up the west face of Cima Tosa 3133m. The route was first completed by Tomas Franchini and Alessandro Lucchi in 2013.
Cima Brenta, Alessandro Beber and Matteo Faletti establish big new Dolomites winter climb
10/01/2019 - Alpinism
Cima Brenta, Alessandro Beber and Matteo Faletti establish big new Dolomites winter climb
Winter mountaineering in the Brenta Dolomites: on the east face of Cima Brenta, Alessandro Beber and Matteo Faletti have made the first ascent of the important new ice and mixed climb CRAM (550m, AI5, M6, 90°). Beber and Faletti report.
Sharphu II in Himalaya climbed by Spencer Gray and Aivaras Sajus
07/01/2019 - Alpinism
Sharphu II in Himalaya climbed by Spencer Gray and Aivaras Sajus
In October 2018 Spencer Gray and Aivaras Sajus made what is likely to be the first ascent of Sharphu II (6328m) in Nepal's Kangchenjunga region. The route climbs the mountain’s east face, was climbed alpine style over a six-day period and has been called Saṃsāra (ED2 AI5 M6).
New Zion aid route climbed by Paul Gagner, Ryan Kempf
03/01/2019 - Climbing
New Zion aid route climbed by Paul Gagner, Ryan Kempf
Climbing in Zion National Park, USA: in November 2018 Paul Gagner and Ryan Kempf made the first ascent of Museum Piece (V 5.8 A4), a new aid climb up the Angelino Wall.
Jernej Kruder climbs Croatia’s hardest, Dugi rat at Omiš
02/01/2019 - Climbing
Jernej Kruder climbs Croatia’s hardest, Dugi rat at Omiš
On 31/12/2018 Slovenian climber Jernej Kruder made the first ascent of Dugi rat at the crag Vrulja close to Omiš in Croatia. Graded 9a+, this is now the hardest sport climb in the country.
Sardinia sport climbing: the new guidebook to Domusnovas
01/01/2019 - Climbing
Sardinia sport climbing: the new guidebook to Domusnovas
Maurizio Oviglia introduces the new climbing guidebook to Domusnovas, in the south-west of Sardinia, one of the 'historic' sport climbing areas on the Italian island.
Lorenzo Puri climbs 100 boulder problems 8A and harder
27/12/2018 - Interviews
Lorenzo Puri climbs 100 boulder problems 8A and harder
Interview with the 23-year-old Italian climber Lorenzo Puri, who recently climbed his 100th boulder problem graded 8A or harder.
Giorgia Tesio and Simone Raina send Fortunadrago, historic 8B boulder problem at Varazze
24/12/2018 - Climbing
Giorgia Tesio and Simone Raina send Fortunadrago, historic 8B boulder problem at Varazze
At Varazze (Italy) Giorgia Tesio climbed her first 8B boulder problem, Fortunadrago. Repeated on the same day by Simone Raina, this historic bloc was the first 8B in the area, freed by local Christian Core.
Fabian Buhl, Alexander Huber climb Choktoi Ri in Karakorum, Pakistan
22/12/2018 - Alpinism
Fabian Buhl, Alexander Huber climb Choktoi Ri in Karakorum, Pakistan
The video of the ascent of the stunning ridge up Choktoi Ri 6166m in Pakistan’s Karakorum, first climbed in summer 2018 by Fabian Buhl and Alexander Huber. The 2200m route is called The Big Easy.
Gabriele Moroni is Off The Wagon in Valle Bavona
20/12/2018 - Climbing
Gabriele Moroni is Off The Wagon in Valle Bavona
Italian rock climber Gabriele Moroni has repeated Off the Wagon, the famous boulder problem graded 8B+ in Val Bavona, Switzerland.
Wafaa Amer claims Hyaena, historic Andrea Gallo testpiece at Finale, Italy
16/12/2018 - Climbing
Wafaa Amer claims Hyaena, historic Andrea Gallo testpiece at Finale, Italy
Egyptian rock climber Wafaa Amer report about her repeat of Hyaena, the milestone in Italian sports climbing freed by Andrea Gallo in 1986 at Finale Ligure.
Stefano Ghisolfi portrays his Perfecto Mundo at Margalef
14/12/2018 - Interviews
Stefano Ghisolfi portrays his Perfecto Mundo at Margalef
Interview with Stefano Ghisolfi after his repeat of Perfecto Mundo, the 9b+ at Margalef in Spain considered one of the most difficult sport climbs in the world. After Adam Ondra, Chris Sharma and Alexander Megos, the 25-year-old climber from Italy is now only the fourth climber to master these difficulties.
Teufelsgeige, new mixed climb in Langental, Dolomites
13/12/2018 - Alpinism
Teufelsgeige, new mixed climb in Langental, Dolomites
Ice climbing in the Dolomites: in Langental, Dolomites, Daniel Ladurner and Hannes Lemayer have made the first ascent of Teufelsgeige (125m, WI5+, M6), a new mixed climb circa 30 meters to the right of the classic icefall Piovra.
Asta Nunaat in Greenland, Andrea Ghitti and Fabio Olivari climb Gioielli Viventi
10/12/2018 - Alpinism
Asta Nunaat in Greenland, Andrea Ghitti and Fabio Olivari climb Gioielli Viventi
On Asta Nunaat in eastern Greenland Andrea Ghitti and Fabio Olivari have made the first ascent of 'Gioielli Viventi', a new rock climb (320m, VI+/A1) established on 9 August 2018. This is likely to be only the second ascent of this mountain, after the first carried out in 2006 by...
Airport, possible new ice climb in Langental, Dolomites, by Daniel Ladurner, Hannes Lemayr
08/12/2018 - Alpinism
Airport, possible new ice climb in Langental, Dolomites, by Daniel Ladurner, Hannes Lemayr
In Langental (Puez - Geisler group, Dolomites) Daniel Ladurner and Hannes Lemayr have climbed a possible new icefall they have called Airport. The line runs to the left of the classic Jumbo Jet drip and has been graded WI5+ M4 160m. Ladurner reports.
Stefano Ghisolfi picture perfect on Perfecto Mundo at Margalef
07/12/2018 - Climbing
Stefano Ghisolfi picture perfect on Perfecto Mundo at Margalef
Today at Margalef in Spain the Italian climber Stefano Ghisolfi repeated Perfecto Mundo, the 9b+ freed by Alexander Megos and considered one of the hardest sport climbs in the world.

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