682 News found

German journalist Stefan Nestler examines the physiological difficulties associated with climbing K2 in winter without supplemental oxygen. Originally published on his website, Nestler has kindly allowed his text to be republished on planetmountain.com.

Italian climber and new router Maurizio Oviglia once again focuses on the safety of climbing bolts and anchors on sport climbs in seaside environments and has launched a campaign to raise funds in order to re-bolt some marine crags in Sardinia with titanium bolts.

Winter 8000: Climbing the World's Highest Mountains in the Coldest Season by award-winning author Bernadette McDonald. The best-selling mountaineering book, the most complete analysis of winter climbing in the Himalayas, finalist of all the most important international mountain literature awards.

Last summer relatively unknown British climber Aidan Roberts performed at a world-class level, establishing first ascents up to 8C+. This story is about his bouldering breakthrough and his amazing run of form.

Alpinists Matteo Della Bordella and Silvan Schüpbach have climbed Crossway of Friendship on the northeast face of Pizzo Badile. This variation is dedicated to the late Matteo Bernasconi.

On Caporal in Valle dell’Orco, Italy, Federica Mingolla has made the first free ascent of 'Angels and Demons', the multi-pitch rock climb started by Ezio Marlier and Massimo Farina 15 years ago Mingolla completed the route with Leonardo Gheza before freeing it with Simone Papalia. Her report, as well as...

Kirill Belotserkovskiy introduces the rock climbing at Bekatau-Ata, a fascinating system of granite cliffs 70 kilometers to the north of Balkhash in Central Kazakhstan

Interview with British rock climber James Pearson after the second ascent of Tribe, the extremely difficult trad climb at Cadarese in Italy first ascended by Jacopo Larcher in 2019

The video portrait of Federica Mingolla that explores the path the Italian has taken from her early sport climbing days to evolving into one of the world’s most compete climbers.

Temur Kurdiani has made the solo first ascent of a new route up the West Face of Tetnuldi in the Greater Caucasus Mountain Range in Georgia.

Austrian climber Barbara Zangerl has become the first woman to climb Greenspit, the difficult trad route first ascended by Didier Berthod in Valle dell’Orco, Italy.

In spring 2019 Simon Gietl and Vittorio Messini made the first ascent of Backstage, a 350m multi-pitch with difficulties up to VIII+/R3 on the south face of Kleine Zinne / Cima Piccola, Tre Cime di Lavaredo, Dolomites. Messini reports.

22-year old British rock climber Mathew Wright has made a rare ascent of Hubble, the Ben Moon masterpiece at Raven Tor. First ascended in 1990 and hailed as the world’s first 8c+, this is increasingly considered the world’s first 9a.

In September 2020 Georgian mountaineers made a 16-day trip to Svaneti in Central Caucasus and completed two new routes. The first, by Archil Badriashvili, Giorgi Tepnadze and Levan Lashkarashvili, up the SW Face of Ailama (4,547m), the second by Badriashvili and Tepnadze up the NW Face of Ushba. Badriashvili reports.

Italian mountaineer Leonardo Gheza reports about his solo ascent of the Central Pillar of Frêney in the Mont Blanc massif on 6/08/2020. This might well be the first solo ascent in just a single day. In any case it was an amazing experience on one of the most famous faces...

Four remarkable ascents will be awarded the Piolets d'Or 2020 at the Ladek Mountain Festival in Poland from 11 - 22 September: Chamlang by Marek Holeček and Zdeněk Hák, Tengi Ragi Tau by Alan Rousseau and Tino Villanueva, Link Sar by Mark Richey, Steve Swenson, Chris Wright and Graham Zimmerman...