706 News found
05/07/2023 - Alpinism
Sass di Stria black magic by Michal Coubal, Martin Tučka Czech mountaineer Michal Coubal reports about the first ascent of 'Magia nera', established on the SE Face of Sass de Stria (2477m) above Passo Valparola in the Dolomites with Martin Tučka.
27/06/2023 - Climbing
Didier Berthod makes first ascent of The Crack of Destiny at Squamish in Canada Swiss climber Didier Berthod has made the first ascent of The Crack of Destiny on The Chief at Squamish in Canada. Graded 5.14, this checks in as one of the hardest crack climbs in North America.
15/05/2023 - Climbing
Aleksandra Taistra repeats Genius, hard & runout multipitch in Sardinia On 20 April 2023 Polish climber Aleksandra Taistra repeated Genius (8b, 300m) on Monte Ginnircu in Sardinia, Italy. Established in 2010 by Fabio Palma, Domenico Soldarini and Matteo della Bordella, the line had previously been ascended completely only once before, by Pietro dal Prà in 2012.
17/04/2023 - Climbing
Zanzara Sud climbed free on Monte Colodri at Arco, Italy, by Marco Cordin The report by Italian aspirant mountain guide Marco Cordin about the first one-day free ascent of Zanzara Sud. Established ground-up by Gianni Canale, Aldo Mazzotti and Franco Cavallaro, this multi-pitch route tackles the south face of the famous Zanzara pillar. The spectacular 8b crux pitch had previously been freed by...
21/02/2023 - Alpinism
Minteke Valley: Muhz Teke, Pik Sindre, Pik Luis and other Dutch climbs in Pamir-Alay, Kyrgyzstan The climbing expedition report to Minteke Valley, Pamir-Alay, Kyrgyzstan, carried out by Dutch climbers Noor van der Veen, Regien Winnubst, Martin Platteschor, Dennis Hendrikx, Robert Löwensteyn, Sjoerd Boersma, Michiel Telkamp, Jeffrey Meesters, Anniek Verschuur, Bas Visscher, Court Haegens and Boris Textor. The September 2022 trip resulted in series of fine...
14/11/2022 - Book-press
Alex Buisse's ten best climbs in the Mont Blanc massif French photographer Alex Buisse introduces his 10 favourite climbs in the Mont Blanc massif. The routes feature in his stunning photographic topo guide to the range 'Mont Blanc Lines' (Vertebrate Publishing 2022).
10/10/2022 - Interviews
We are Mahsa Amini! Interview with Iranian climber Nasim Eshqi On September 16, 2022, Mahsa Amini, a 22-year-old Iranian woman, died after being arrested by the morality police in Tehran. Since then, outrageously brave, predominantly young women across the country have been protesting for human rights, equality and against the oppression of a totalitarian regime. German journalist Tom Dauer...
30/09/2022 - Alpinism
Dry Ice Queen on Mount Zabor, difficult Slovakian mixed climb in Kyrgyzstan Slovakian alpinist Juraj Švingál reports about Dry Ice Queen (M9- WI6+), a 21-pitch technical mixed climb ascended with Marek Radovský on Mount Zabor in the Kookshal Too massif in Kyrgyzstan. Ascended alpine style on 13 and 14 August 2022, it is believed that this is a new route.
29/09/2022 - Alpinism
Janluca Kostner completes first solo ascent of Chimera Verticale on Civetta, Dolomites The report by 24-year-old mountain guide Janluca Kostner from Ortisei (Val Gardena, Italy) who between 13 and 14 September 2022 made the first rope-solo ascent of Chimera Verticale on Mt. Civetta (Dolomites). Graded IX, the route on the North West Face of Punta Civetta was established between 2007 and 2008...
15/07/2022 - Alpinism
Cool new Kolosseum multipitch on Hohe Munde in Austria by Egon Egger, Benjamin Zörer Egon Egger and Benjamin Zörer have made the first ascent of 'Steh auf Gladiator' on Kolosseum on the SW Face of Hohe Munde in Tyrol, Austria. The 260m route takes an independent line to the right of 'Alte Telfer', past difficulties up to VII+, and was freed on 18/06/2022. Zörer...
12/07/2022 - Competitions
Janja Garnbret, Adam Ondra win Chamonix World Cup The third stage of the Lead World Cup 2022 was won in Chamonix by Janja Garnbret from Slovenia and Adam Ondra from the Czech Republic.Laura Rogora and Taisei Homma won silver, Chaehyun Seo and Sean Bailey bronze.
07/07/2022 - Alpinism
Stairway to Heaven in Val Baione (Valle Camonica), Italy On Cima Bacchetta, at the foot of Italy’s Mount Concarena (Val Baione - Valle Camonica) Leonardo Gheza and Angelo Contessi have made the first ascent of Stairway to heaven. The new route is dedicated to Luca Ducoli.
21/06/2022 - Climbing
Anna Hazlett makes first female ascent of Walk of Life E9 in UK America's Anna Hazlett, aka. Anna Hazelnutt, has made the first female ascent of The Walk of Life, an extremely bold E9 6c at Dyer's Lookout, UK.
23/05/2022 - Competitions
Natalia Grossman, Mejdi Schalck climb to spectacular Boulder World Cup victory in Salt Lake City The third stage of the Boulder World Cup 2022 was won yesterday in Salt Lake City, USA, by Natalia Grossman and Mejdi Schalck.
23/05/2022 - Interviews
Mathew Wright deciphers Lake District's E11 Lexicon Interview with Mathew Wright after the 23-year-old British rock climber made the fourth ascent of Lexicon, the E11 at Pavey Ark in the Lake District first ascended by Neil Gresham in summer 2021.
06/05/2022 - Climbing
Jacopo Larcher explores dangerous new trad climbs at Cadarese At Cadarese in Val d’Ossola, Italy, the South Tyrolean climber Jacopo Larcher has freed two difficult trad climbs: Waiting for ... and Jeune et con.
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