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Pandora, the new crag at Masua in Sardinia
07/12/2023 - Climbing
Pandora, the new crag at Masua in Sardinia
Maurizio Oviglia introduces Pandora, the new crag to the left of the historic Castello dell'Iride at Masua, in the Iglesiente in southern Sardinia.
Salbit Trilogy speed record set by Yannick Glatthard and Simon Wahli
21/11/2023 - Alpinism
Salbit Trilogy speed record set by Yannick Glatthard and Simon Wahli
Swiss alpinists Yannick Glatthard and Simon Wahli have climbed the Salbitschijen west, south and east ridge in an unprecedented record time of 5 hours and 53 minutes. The previous best known time was set in July 2023 in Dani Arnold who climbed the three ridges solo in 9 hours and...
Miška Izakovičová makes free ascent of Golden Gate on El Capitan, Yosemite
20/11/2023 - Climbing
Miška Izakovičová makes free ascent of Golden Gate on El Capitan, Yosemite
Supported by climbing partner Karel Nováček, Michaela Izakovičová from Slovakia has made a free ascent of 'Golden Gate' on El Capitan in Yosemite. The 34-year-old from Bratislava provides the details of this classic big wall, established in September 2000 by German brothers Alexander and Thomas Huber.
Asian Boulder & Lead qualifier underway in Indonesia
09/11/2023 - Competitions
Asian Boulder & Lead qualifier underway in Indonesia
The IFSC Boulder & Lead Asian Qualifier is currently taking place in Jakarta, Indonesia, with four tickets up for grabs for the Paris 2024 Olympic Games,
A petition to 'save' the Sassolungo mountain group in the Dolomites
06/11/2023 - Environment
A petition to 'save' the Sassolungo mountain group in the Dolomites
An online petition has been launched to 'save' the Sassolungo Group in the Dolomites from privatisation. Over 45 thousand signatures have been collected so far.
Jannu North Face: interview with Alan Rousseau after Alpine Style ascent with Matt Cornell, Jackson Marvell
20/10/2023 - Interviews
Jannu North Face: interview with Alan Rousseau after Alpine Style ascent with Matt Cornell, Jackson Marvell
Interview with Alan Rousseau after the alpine style ascent, carried out with Matt Cornell and Jackson Marvell from 7 - 13 October 2023, of the North Face of Jannu via their 'Round Trip Ticket' (2700m, M7 AI5+ A0).
Jannu North Face climbed alpine style by Matt Cornell, Jackson Marvell, Alan Rousseau
18/10/2023 - Alpinism
Jannu North Face climbed alpine style by Matt Cornell, Jackson Marvell, Alan Rousseau
From 7 - 13 October 2023 American climbers Matt Cornell, Jackson Marvell and Alan Rousseau made an alpine style ascent of the North Face of Jannu (7710m). Their 2700m high 'Round Trip Ticket' breaches difficulties estimated at M7 AI5+ A0.
Miyar Valley: new climbs in 'India's Yosemite' by Alessandro Baù, Lorenzo D’Addario, Jérome Perruquet, Francesco Ratti
09/10/2023 - Alpinism
Miyar Valley: new climbs in 'India's Yosemite' by Alessandro Baù, Lorenzo D’Addario, Jérome Perruquet, Francesco Ratti
An Italian expedition comprised of mountain guides Alessandro Baù, Lorenzo D'Addario, Jérome Perruquet and Francesco Ratti has established two new climbs in the Miyar Valley, also known as the 'Yosemite of India'. 'Wind of Silence' (6b+, 500m) ascend the Neverseen Tower, while 'Super Thuraya' (6c, 500m) climbs the southwest pillar...
Piolets d'Or 2023 announces list of Significant Ascents
22/09/2023 - Alpinism
Piolets d'Or 2023 announces list of Significant Ascents
The organisers of the Piolet d’Or mountaineering award have published the complete list of most significant and innovative climbs carried out in 2022. The honoured ascents will receive the 2023 Piolets d'Or award during the celebration in Briançon, France, from 14 to 16 November
New Qualido climb in Val di Mello (Val Masino, Italy)
08/09/2023 - Alpinism
New Qualido climb in Val di Mello (Val Masino, Italy)
On the ENE face of Qualido in Val di Mello (Val Masino) Michele Cisana, Alessio Guzzetti, Paolo De Nuccio and Andrea Mastellaro made the first ascent of 'Impressioni di Settembre'. The 500 meter route breaches difficulties up to 6c+ (6b+ mandatory) and was dedicated to the deceased friends Giovanni Allevi...
Stetind 'South West Face' first ascent in Norway by Joda Dolmans, Andreas Widlund
13/07/2023 - Alpinism
Stetind 'South West Face' first ascent in Norway by Joda Dolmans, Andreas Widlund
Joda Dolmans reports about the first ascent of 'South West Face' on Stetind in Norway with Andreas Widlund. The 790m climb was established in a 33-hour push, breaches difficulties up to N7/A0, and shares a short section of 'Guldfisken' in the middle of the face.
Sass di Stria black magic by Michal Coubal, Martin Tučka
05/07/2023 - Alpinism
Sass di Stria black magic by Michal Coubal, Martin Tučka
Czech mountaineer Michal Coubal reports about the first ascent of 'Magia nera', established on the SE Face of Sass de Stria (2477m) above Passo Valparola in the Dolomites with Martin Tučka.
Didier Berthod makes first ascent of The Crack of Destiny at Squamish in Canada
27/06/2023 - Climbing
Didier Berthod makes first ascent of The Crack of Destiny at Squamish in Canada
Swiss climber Didier Berthod has made the first ascent of The Crack of Destiny on The Chief at Squamish in Canada. Graded 5.14, this checks in as one of the hardest crack climbs in North America.
Aleksandra Taistra repeats Genius, hard & runout multipitch in Sardinia
15/05/2023 - Climbing
Aleksandra Taistra repeats Genius, hard & runout multipitch in Sardinia
On 20 April 2023 Polish climber Aleksandra Taistra repeated Genius (8b, 300m) on Monte Ginnircu in Sardinia, Italy. Established in 2010 by Fabio Palma, Domenico Soldarini and Matteo della Bordella, the line had previously been ascended completely only once before, by Pietro dal Prà in 2012.
Zanzara Sud climbed free on Monte Colodri at Arco, Italy, by Marco Cordin
17/04/2023 - Climbing
Zanzara Sud climbed free on Monte Colodri at Arco, Italy, by Marco Cordin
The report by Italian aspirant mountain guide Marco Cordin about the first one-day free ascent of Zanzara Sud. Established ground-up by Gianni Canale, Aldo Mazzotti and Franco Cavallaro, this multi-pitch route tackles the south face of the famous Zanzara pillar. The spectacular 8b crux pitch had previously been freed by...
Minteke Valley: Muhz Teke, Pik Sindre, Pik Luis and other Dutch climbs in Pamir-Alay, Kyrgyzstan
21/02/2023 - Alpinism
Minteke Valley: Muhz Teke, Pik Sindre, Pik Luis and other Dutch climbs in Pamir-Alay, Kyrgyzstan
The climbing expedition report to Minteke Valley, Pamir-Alay, Kyrgyzstan, carried out by Dutch climbers Noor van der Veen, Regien Winnubst, Martin Platteschor, Dennis Hendrikx, Robert Löwensteyn, Sjoerd Boersma, Michiel Telkamp, Jeffrey Meesters, Anniek Verschuur, Bas Visscher, Court Haegens and Boris Textor. The September 2022 trip resulted in series of fine...

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