694 News found

09/10/2023 - Alpinism
Miyar Valley: new climbs in 'India's Yosemite' by Alessandro Baù, Lorenzo D’Addario, Jérome Perruquet, Francesco Ratti An Italian expedition comprised of mountain guides Alessandro Baù, Lorenzo D'Addario, Jérome Perruquet and Francesco Ratti has established two new climbs in the Miyar Valley, also known as the 'Yosemite of India'. 'Wind of Silence' (6b+, 500m) ascend the Neverseen Tower, while 'Super Thuraya' (6c, 500m) climbs the southwest pillar...

22/09/2023 - Alpinism
Piolets d'Or 2023 announces list of Significant Ascents The organisers of the Piolet d’Or mountaineering award have published the complete list of most significant and innovative climbs carried out in 2022. The honoured ascents will receive the 2023 Piolets d'Or award during the celebration in Briançon, France, from 14 to 16 November

08/09/2023 - Alpinism
New Qualido climb in Val di Mello (Val Masino, Italy) On the ENE face of Qualido in Val di Mello (Val Masino) Michele Cisana, Alessio Guzzetti, Paolo De Nuccio and Andrea Mastellaro made the first ascent of 'Impressioni di Settembre'. The 500 meter route breaches difficulties up to 6c+ (6b+ mandatory) and was dedicated to the deceased friends Giovanni Allevi...

13/07/2023 - Alpinism
Stetind 'South West Face' first ascent in Norway by Joda Dolmans, Andreas Widlund Joda Dolmans reports about the first ascent of 'South West Face' on Stetind in Norway with Andreas Widlund. The 790m climb was established in a 33-hour push, breaches difficulties up to N7/A0, and shares a short section of 'Guldfisken' in the middle of the face.

05/07/2023 - Alpinism
Sass di Stria black magic by Michal Coubal, Martin Tučka Czech mountaineer Michal Coubal reports about the first ascent of 'Magia nera', established on the SE Face of Sass de Stria (2477m) above Passo Valparola in the Dolomites with Martin Tučka.

27/06/2023 - Climbing
Didier Berthod makes first ascent of The Crack of Destiny at Squamish in Canada Swiss climber Didier Berthod has made the first ascent of The Crack of Destiny on The Chief at Squamish in Canada. Graded 5.14, this checks in as one of the hardest crack climbs in North America.

15/05/2023 - Climbing
Aleksandra Taistra repeats Genius, hard & runout multipitch in Sardinia On 20 April 2023 Polish climber Aleksandra Taistra repeated Genius (8b, 300m) on Monte Ginnircu in Sardinia, Italy. Established in 2010 by Fabio Palma, Domenico Soldarini and Matteo della Bordella, the line had previously been ascended completely only once before, by Pietro dal Prà in 2012.

17/04/2023 - Climbing
Zanzara Sud climbed free on Monte Colodri at Arco, Italy, by Marco Cordin The report by Italian aspirant mountain guide Marco Cordin about the first one-day free ascent of Zanzara Sud. Established ground-up by Gianni Canale, Aldo Mazzotti and Franco Cavallaro, this multi-pitch route tackles the south face of the famous Zanzara pillar. The spectacular 8b crux pitch had previously been freed by...

21/02/2023 - Alpinism
Minteke Valley: Muhz Teke, Pik Sindre, Pik Luis and other Dutch climbs in Pamir-Alay, Kyrgyzstan The climbing expedition report to Minteke Valley, Pamir-Alay, Kyrgyzstan, carried out by Dutch climbers Noor van der Veen, Regien Winnubst, Martin Platteschor, Dennis Hendrikx, Robert Löwensteyn, Sjoerd Boersma, Michiel Telkamp, Jeffrey Meesters, Anniek Verschuur, Bas Visscher, Court Haegens and Boris Textor. The September 2022 trip resulted in series of fine...

14/11/2022 - Book-press
Alex Buisse's ten best climbs in the Mont Blanc massif French photographer Alex Buisse introduces his 10 favourite climbs in the Mont Blanc massif. The routes feature in his stunning photographic topo guide to the range 'Mont Blanc Lines' (Vertebrate Publishing 2022).

10/10/2022 - Interviews
We are Mahsa Amini! Interview with Iranian climber Nasim Eshqi On September 16, 2022, Mahsa Amini, a 22-year-old Iranian woman, died after being arrested by the morality police in Tehran. Since then, outrageously brave, predominantly young women across the country have been protesting for human rights, equality and against the oppression of a totalitarian regime. German journalist Tom Dauer...

30/09/2022 - Alpinism
Dry Ice Queen on Mount Zabor, difficult Slovakian mixed climb in Kyrgyzstan Slovakian alpinist Juraj Švingál reports about Dry Ice Queen (M9- WI6+), a 21-pitch technical mixed climb ascended with Marek Radovský on Mount Zabor in the Kookshal Too massif in Kyrgyzstan. Ascended alpine style on 13 and 14 August 2022, it is believed that this is a new route.

29/09/2022 - Alpinism
Janluca Kostner completes first solo ascent of Chimera Verticale on Civetta, Dolomites The report by 24-year-old mountain guide Janluca Kostner from Ortisei (Val Gardena, Italy) who between 13 and 14 September 2022 made the first rope-solo ascent of Chimera Verticale on Mt. Civetta (Dolomites). Graded IX, the route on the North West Face of Punta Civetta was established between 2007 and 2008...

15/07/2022 - Alpinism
Cool new Kolosseum multipitch on Hohe Munde in Austria by Egon Egger, Benjamin Zörer Egon Egger and Benjamin Zörer have made the first ascent of 'Steh auf Gladiator' on Kolosseum on the SW Face of Hohe Munde in Tyrol, Austria. The 260m route takes an independent line to the right of 'Alte Telfer', past difficulties up to VII+, and was freed on 18/06/2022. Zörer...

12/07/2022 - Competitions
Janja Garnbret, Adam Ondra win Chamonix World Cup The third stage of the Lead World Cup 2022 was won in Chamonix by Janja Garnbret from Slovenia and Adam Ondra from the Czech Republic.Laura Rogora and Taisei Homma won silver, Chaehyun Seo and Sean Bailey bronze.

07/07/2022 - Alpinism
Stairway to Heaven in Val Baione (Valle Camonica), Italy On Cima Bacchetta, at the foot of Italy’s Mount Concarena (Val Baione - Valle Camonica) Leonardo Gheza and Angelo Contessi have made the first ascent of Stairway to heaven. The new route is dedicated to Luca Ducoli.
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