Luca Bacer sends Sanjski par ext (9a) at Mišja Peč in Slovenia

Ever since I was a child I've always thought about climbing a route of this difficulty. The climb at my home crag, Mišja Peč, which always attracted my attention was Sanjski par, both because of its particular style which perhaps might have suited me, and because over the years I've witnessed many strong climbers repeat it.

Last season, autumn 2022, after managing to climb the first pitch I committed to really putting myself to the test and start trying it seriously. Shortly afterwards, however, I injured myself and since I couldn't wear climbing shoes for a couple of months, the idea of sending the extension quickly disappeared.

This autumn I started trying it again, safe in the knowledge that it suited my style. The process was long but never boring because I was almost never on my own: sharing climbing days below this steep roof with climbers way stronger than me was motivating, instructive and fun.

Last week, after having refined my beta on what turned out to be my personal crux just after the first chain, I managed to reach the last good holds. However I fell just before the second chain, by now on far easier terrain.

I realised that the send was a real possibility and thoughts raced through my head: "would I have succeeded with a kneepad?", "what if right at the end I had descended onto the slab and used the jugs, would I have sent?" In the end I summoned up the courage and resumed trying the route as it had been climbed originally. Actually, what I liked most about the redpoint process was having the opportunity to try the route in precisely the same style as the first climbers had done back in the day.

Last week, given the weather and my shape, I returned to the infamous grotto and on my second attempt of the day I climbed through the crux and reached the easier section. With better conditions and a slightly stronger mindset I finally reached the second anchor, without falling.

The small, but actually not so little, dream of mine I'd fostered ever since I was a child has come true and now I can't wait to push my limits a little further. I'd like to thank everyone who belayed me up in that cave, and my family and Anna for their continued support from home..

by Luca Bacer

Luca thanks E9 for the support