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Scottish winter climbing, hard repeats and first ascents
10/02/2011 - Alpinism
Scottish winter climbing, hard repeats and first ascents
A series of hard repeats and first ascents on Ben Nevis, Coire an t-Sneachda and Lochnagar, including the second ascent of The Hurting (XI,11 Dave MacLeod, 2005) by Andy Turner.
Solo per i tuoi occhi, the great icefall on Monte Pelmo climbed by Ballico and Milanese
10/02/2011 - Alpinism
Solo per i tuoi occhi, the great icefall on Monte Pelmo climbed by Ballico and Milanese
On 23/01/2011 Giuseppe Ballico and Marco Milanesi carried out what is believe to be the first ascent of Solo per i tuoi occhi (300m, V, WI 5+ XRM), the massive drip on the ESE Face of Monte Pelmo, Dolomites.
Ines Papert in Scotland, new Ben Nevis and Cairngorms winter climbs
07/02/2011 - Alpinism
Ines Papert in Scotland, new Ben Nevis and Cairngorms winter climbs
During a week winter climbing in Scotland, Ines Papert and Charly Fritzer have established Triple X, VIII,8 on Ben Nevis and Bavarinthia IX, 9 at Coire an Lochain in the Cairngorms.
Ines Papert in Scotland, new Ben Nevis and Cairngorms winter climbs
07/02/2011 - Alpinism
Ines Papert in Scotland, new Ben Nevis and Cairngorms winter climbs
During a week winter climbing in Scotland, Ines Papert and Charly Fritzer have established Triple X, VIII,8 on Ben Nevis and Bavarinthia IX, 9 at Coire an Lochain in the Cairngorms.
Gasherbrum II in winter: after the summit, descent to Base Camp with avalanche for Moro, Urubko and Richards!
04/02/2011 - Alpinism
Gasherbrum II in winter: after the summit, descent to Base Camp with avalanche for Moro, Urubko and Richards!
Simone Moro, Denis Urubko and Cory Richards have now reached Base Camp after an arduous descent during which they were hit by an avalanche. This historic first winter ascent of Gasherbrum II (8035m, Karakorum, Pakistan) now draws to a close.
Gasherbrum II in winter: after the summit, Moro, Urubko and Richards reach Camp 1
03/02/2011 - Alpinism
Gasherbrum II in winter: after the summit, Moro, Urubko and Richards reach Camp 1
After yesterday's historic first winter ascent of Gasherbrum II (8035m, Karakorum, Pakistan), Simone Moro, Denis Urubko and Cory Richards have now descended from Camp 3 to Camp 1.
Col du Brouillard, first descent of SW Couloir
Col du Brouillard, first descent of SW Couloir
Davide Capozzi and Roch Malnuit have carried out the probable first descent of the SW Couloir of Col du Brouillard in the Mont Blanc mountain range.
Gasherbrum II, historic first winter ascent: summit for Moro, Urubko and Richards!
02/02/2011 - Alpinism
Gasherbrum II, historic first winter ascent: summit for Moro, Urubko and Richards!
At 11:28 local time Simone Moro, Denis Urubko and Cory Richards reached the summit of Gasherbrum II. This is the first winter ascent of the 13th highest mountain in the world, a historic climb which is also the first winter ascent of one of the five 8000ers located in Pakistan.
Gasherbrum II in winter: Moro, Urubko and Richards poised for summit push
01/02/2011 - Alpinism
Gasherbrum II in winter: Moro, Urubko and Richards poised for summit push
Simone Moro, Denis Urubko and Cory Richards plan to set off from their Camp 3 at 6900m tonight for their first attempt at reaching the summit of Gasherbrum II (Karakorum, Pakistan).
Tito Traversa, a summer and winter on the rise
01/02/2011 - Climbing
Tito Traversa, a summer and winter on the rise
A report of a summer and winter spent climbing by Tito Traversa who, aged nine, has now sent his first 8b, "Je est un autre" at Castillon (France)
Gasherbrum II in winter: Campo 2 for Moro, Urubko and Richards
28/01/2011 - Alpinism
Gasherbrum II in winter: Campo 2 for Moro, Urubko and Richards
On 25 Janaury 2011 Simone Moro, Denis Urubko and Cory Richards installed Camp 2 at 6500m on Gasherbrum II. In doing so they carried out another important step in their attempt to carry out the first winter ascent of the 13th highest mountain in the world.
Aiguilles du Brouillard Couloir south-west first ski descent
Aiguilles du Brouillard Couloir south-west first ski descent
On 17/01/2011 Davide Capozzi, Luca Rolli, Roch Malnuit, Laurent Dupré and Lionel Hachemy made the first descent of the SW Couloir on Aiguilles du Brouillard (P.ta Saviotti), Mont Blanc
Francek Knez and Silvo Karo, Slovenian Order of Merit for alpinism
18/01/2011 - Events
Francek Knez and Silvo Karo, Slovenian Order of Merit for alpinism
On 22 December 2010 the Slovenian alpinists Francek Knez and Silvo Karo were awarded the Order of Merit by Slovenia's President Dr. Danilo Tuerk. This high state decoration was confirmed on the pair for "their achievements in Slovenian mountain climbing and for their contributions to the reputation of Slovenian mountaineering...
Ice Climbing World Cup 2011, Bendler and Tolokonina win in Cheongsong, Korea
10/01/2011 - Competitions
Ice Climbing World Cup 2011, Bendler and Tolokonina win in Cheongsong, Korea
The first stage of the Ice Climbing World Cup took place in Cheongsong, Korea, on 8 and 9 January 2011 and was won by Markus Bendler from Austria and Maria Tolokonina from Russia. The Speed event was won by the Russians Maxim Tomilov and Irina Bagaeva.
Malvasia 22 years later... the first repeat by Cody Roth and the recollections of Manolo
01/01/2011 - Climbing
Malvasia 22 years later... the first repeat by Cody Roth and the recollections of Manolo
On 28 December 2010 the American climber Cody Roth carried out the first repeat of Malvasia at Dvigrad in Croatia, the route bolted in 1987 and freed in 1988 by Maurizio 'Manolo' Zanolla which no one had managed to repeat. Roth believes the route to be a good 8c+... The...
Long mixed climb in the Gasterntal close Kandersteg, Switzerland
30/12/2010 - Alpinism
Long mixed climb in the Gasterntal close Kandersteg, Switzerland
Over a four day period in winter 2007 the experienced Swiss ice climbers Markus Stofer and Bernd Rathmayr established "Scharf, mit alles…" in the Gasterntal close to Kandersteg in Switzerland.

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