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Luka Zazvonil prepares Table For Six at Kotecnik in Slovenia
18/05/2011 - Climbing
Luka Zazvonil prepares Table For Six at Kotecnik in Slovenia
Slovenian climber Luka Zazvonil has made the first ascent of Miza za šest or Table for Six 8c+/9a at Kotecnik in Slovenia. Urban Golob provides the report.
Pompa Funebre, new route by Larcher, Giupponi and Sartori on Monte Pellegrino, Palermo
11/05/2011 - Climbing
Pompa Funebre, new route by Larcher, Giupponi and Sartori on Monte Pellegrino, Palermo
On 31/03 and 01/04/2011 Rolando Larcher, Luca Giupponi and Nicola Sartori completed the first ascent of Pompa Funebre (150m, 8b max, 7a+ obligatory). The route had previously been started by Larcher, Giupponi and Maurizio Oviglia up the NE Face of Monte Pellegrino (Palermo, Sicily).
Melloblocco #1, Copper skies above Monolith by Popi Miotti
22/04/2011 - Climbing
Melloblocco #1, Copper skies above Monolith by Popi Miotti
Giuseppe 'Popi' Miotti, the visions of a climber in Val Masino – Val di Mello and the distant vertical galaxies of pure granite.
Piolet d'Or 2011: Mount Logan and Greenland Big Walls the winners
16/04/2011 - Events
Piolet d'Or 2011: Mount Logan and Greenland Big Walls the winners
Two prizes awarded last night in Chamonix during the IXX Piolet d'Or: Mount Logan in Canada by Yasushi Okada and Katsutaka Yokoyama, and the Big Walls in Greenland by Sean Villanueva, Nicolas and Olivier Favresse and Ben Ditto.
Adam Ondra, the Chilam Balam interview
14/04/2011 - Climbing
Adam Ondra, the Chilam Balam interview
Interview with Adam Ondra after his repeat of Chilam Balam 9b, the route claimed by Bernabé Fernandez in 2003 at Villanueva del Rosario, Spain.
Aiguille du Plan north face descents
Aiguille du Plan north face descents
Two recent descents of the North Face of the Aiguille du Plan (Mont Blanc), by Julien Herry, Lionel Hachemy and Roch Malnuit on 07/04/2011 and, a day later, by Davide Capozzi, Luca Rolli and Francesco Civra. With skis and snowboards down a face which has extremely few descents.
The Peach, mixed trad in Canada by Slawinski and Meekins
05/04/2011 - Alpinism
The Peach, mixed trad in Canada by Slawinski and Meekins
On 12/03/2011 Raphael Slawinski and Grant Meekins established The Peach (110m, WI5 M8) at Storm Creek, Canadian Rockies.
New ice climbs in Norway
30/03/2011 - Alpinism
New ice climbs in Norway
Details of the latest ice climbing trip to Norway by Albert Leichtfried and Benedikt Purner who in mid February established a series of new routes together with Gerry Fiegl e Paul Mair.
Passion Together, in memory of Chloé Graftiaux
29/03/2011 - Book-press
Passion Together, in memory of Chloé Graftiaux
A book and non-profit association have been created to honour Chloé Graftiaux, the Belgian climber who lost her life last August in a fall from Aiguille Noire de Peuterey (Mont Blanc). Published below is an open letter by Chloé's parents
Adam Ondra, 9b first ascent and 8c+ on-sight in a day at Oliana
28/03/2011 - Climbing
Adam Ondra, 9b first ascent and 8c+ on-sight in a day at Oliana
On Sunday 27/03/2011 Czech climber Adam Ondra set the Spanish crag Oliana on fire with his first ascent of Chaxi Raxi 9b followed by an on-sight of Blanquita 8c+.
Broad Peak and GI, winter ascents abandoned
21/03/2011 - Alpinism
Broad Peak and GI, winter ascents abandoned
Neither the Polish mountaineers engaged on Broad Peak nor the international expedition on G1 have managed to climb these giant mountains during the coldest season, and both expedition have now abandoned their attempts.
From the Pierra Menta to the Grande Course... the changing face of ski mountaineering competitions
19/03/2011 - Competitions
From the Pierra Menta to the Grande Course... the changing face of ski mountaineering competitions
The Grande Course has just begun, the first international ski mountaineering cup comparable to a tennis Grand Slam. Action kicked off on 17 March on the slopes of France's Arêches-Beaufort, which hosted the Grenoble winter Olympics, with the classic French ski mountaineering competition Pierra Menta which dates back to 1985.
Orsiera Rocciavré Natural Park in Black and White
17/03/2011 - Environment
Orsiera Rocciavré Natural Park in Black and White
Dario Bonetto presents his photo journey between the light and shadow and minor details of nature in the Orsiera Rocciavré Natural Park in Piedmont, Italy, which celebrated its 30th anniversary in 2010.
Manolo and his Fragile Heroes in Val Noana
15/03/2011 - Climbing
Manolo and his Fragile Heroes in Val Noana
On 5 March 2011 Maurizio "Manolo" Zanolla freed Eroi Fragili (8c, 30m), a new route he bolted in Val Noana (Pale di San Martino, Dolomites) next to another of his creations, Stramonio.
Golden Eagle, first free ascent in Patagonia
09/03/2011 - Alpinism
Golden Eagle, first free ascent in Patagonia
Raoul Martinez, Sean Villanueva, Cintia Percivati and have carried out the first free ascent of Golden Eagle (7a/7a+, 700m), established by Alexander Huber and Stephan Siegrist in 2006 on Aguja Desmochada, Patagonia.
Papillon, 1st repeat of the great icefall at Brissogne, Valle d'Aosta
01/03/2011 - Alpinism
Papillon, 1st repeat of the great icefall at Brissogne, Valle d'Aosta
On 01/02/2011 Marco Farina, Remy Maquignaz and Thomas Scalise Meynet carried out the first repeat of Papillon (250m IV, 4, M6, 5°) a great modern mixed journey first ascended in 2003 in Valle d'Aosta above Brissogne by Alex Busca, Ezio Marlier and Massimo Farina.