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São Tomé, new climb up Pico Cão Grande by Sergio Almada Berreta and Gareth Leah
07/07/2016 - Climbing
São Tomé, new climb up Pico Cão Grande by Sergio Almada Berreta and Gareth Leah
In June 2016 Sergio Almada Berreta and Gareth Leah made the first ascent of Nubivagant - Wandering in the clouds (455m, 5.13d/A0 8b) up Pico Cão Grande on the island of São Tomé, Africa.
Baffin Island, new big wall by Belgian-Italian team in Stewart Valley
05/07/2016 - Alpinism
Baffin Island, new big wall by Belgian-Italian team in Stewart Valley
An international expedition of alpinists comprised of Nicolas Favresse, Sean Villanueva, Matteo Della Bordella, Matteo De Zaiacomo and Luca Schiera currently operating on Baffin Island have established a new, near 1000m route up Great Sail Peak, Stewart Valley.
Mayan Smith-Gobat, Ben Rueck forge rock climbs in unexplored Zhangjiajie, China
03/07/2016 - Climbing
Mayan Smith-Gobat, Ben Rueck forge rock climbs in unexplored Zhangjiajie, China
Video: Mayan Smith-Gobat, Ben Rueck, Liu Yongbang and Xiao Ting explore new rock climbs in Zhangjiajie National Park, China.
Gangstang NW Ridge first ascent by Malcolm Bass and Guy Buckingham
01/07/2016 - Alpinism
Gangstang NW Ridge first ascent by Malcolm Bass and Guy Buckingham
Malcolm Bass and Guy Buckingham have just made the first ascent of the beautiful NW Ridge of Gangstang (6162m) in the Himachal Pradesh Himalaya. They reached the summit on the 9th June and descended to base camp the next day completing a five day round trip.
#Norwegianstyle, new trad climb on Norway's Preikestolen
30/06/2016 - Climbing
#Norwegianstyle, new trad climb on Norway's Preikestolen
On 13/06/2016 Jon Egil Auestad and Øyvind Salvesen made the first ascent of #Norwegianstyle, a new trad climb up Preikestolen (Pulpit rock) in Norway.
Barbara Zangerl & Jacopo Larcher repeat Stefan Glowacz climb in the Verdon
28/06/2016 - Climbing
Barbara Zangerl & Jacopo Larcher repeat Stefan Glowacz climb in the Verdon
Barbara Zangerl and Jacopo Larcher have climbed Golden Shower (8b+, 150m), the multi-pitch route freed by Stefan Glowacz in 2012 in Verdon Gorge, France. Their ascent took place shortly after that of the Austrians Tobias Bitschnau and Christoph Schranz.
Sonnie Trotter free climbs the Totem Pole Ewbank Route
25/06/2016 - Climbing
Sonnie Trotter free climbs the Totem Pole Ewbank Route
The video of Sonnie Trotter climbing the Totem Pole in Tasmania via the Ewbank Route. Established by John Ewbank and Allan Keller with the use of aid in 1968, in 2009 Doug McConnell and Dean Rollins freed the individual pitches on separate days. Trotter’s ascent is the first free ascent...
Adam Ondra, Yuji Hirayama, Sachi Amma, Klemen Becan, hot climbing action at Flatanger and Oliana
23/06/2016 - Climbing
Adam Ondra, Yuji Hirayama, Sachi Amma, Klemen Becan, hot climbing action at Flatanger and Oliana
Sport climbing news: on 16/06/2016 at Flatanger in Norway Adam Ondra made the first ascent of the 9a+ climb 120 Degrees. And while the talented Japanese Yuji Hirayama and Sachi Amma have now reached this cave, at Oliana in Spain Klemen Bečan from Slovenia has repeated his second 9a+, Papichulo.
Italian Lead Cup, Claudia Ghisolfi and Alberto Gotta win at L'Aquila
21/06/2016 - Competitions
Italian Lead Cup, Claudia Ghisolfi and Alberto Gotta win at L'Aquila
On Sunday, June 19 the third stage of the Italian Lead Cup was won o Villa San Angelo, L'Aquila, by Claudia Ghisolfi and Alberto Gotta.
Grivel Twin Gate carabiner wins Compasso d'Oro - ADI
20/06/2016 - Gear
Grivel Twin Gate carabiner wins Compasso d'Oro - ADI
The Grivel Twin Gate carabiner has won the prestigious award Compasso d’oro ADI 2016, category Design for the individual.
Horror Vacui, new multi-pitch rock climb up Monte Cimo by Rolando Larcher
17/06/2016 - Climbing
Horror Vacui, new multi-pitch rock climb up Monte Cimo by Rolando Larcher
Rolando Larcher together with a series of different climbing partners has made the first ascent of Horror Vacui (8b+ max, 7b+ obl.) a new multi-pitch rock climb up the Scoglio dei Ciclopi face on Monte Cimo (Val d'Adige, Italy). As the name suggests, the line is a huge outing through...
Pamela Shanti Pack climbing 'Am I Evil?'
15/06/2016 - Climbing
Pamela Shanti Pack climbing 'Am I Evil?'
The video of Pamela Shanti Pack making the first ascent of her newest off-width crack climb in the Moab desert called 'Am I Evil?'.
Stefano Carnati climbs Action Directe in the Frankenjura
15/06/2016 - Climbing
Stefano Carnati climbs Action Directe in the Frankenjura
18 year-old Italian climber Stefano Carnati has repeated Action Directe, the legendary 9a sport climb established by Wolfgang Güllich in Germany’s Frankenjura in 1991.
Shauna Coxsey wins Bouldering World Cup 2016, Megan Mascarenas and Kokoro Fujii win in Vail
12/06/2016 - Competitions
Shauna Coxsey wins Bouldering World Cup 2016, Megan Mascarenas and Kokoro Fujii win in Vail
Britain’s Shauna Coxsey placed second in Vail last night to win the Bouldering World Cup 2016. The sixth stage was won America’s Megan Mascarenas and Japan’s Kokoro Fujii.
Touching the void - immortal stories
09/06/2016 - Alpinism
Touching the void - immortal stories
PlayAlpinismo films: Touching the void by Kevin Macdonald recounts the dramatic and immortal story of Joe Simpson and Simon Yates and their first ascent of the West Face of Siula Grande (Andes, Peru). A film and a story about the greatness of friendship and life. The review by Vinicio Stefanello.
Enrico Baistrocchi: California, climbing, work and a touch of nostalgia
06/06/2016 - Climbing
Enrico Baistrocchi: California, climbing, work and a touch of nostalgia
At Mt. Woodson, San Diego, California, where Enrico Baistrocchi moved to work as a route setter and climbing coach, the Italian climber has made the first ascent of Ancora Vivo, at V12 the hardest boulder problem in the area and also developed the new sector called Little Italy.