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Melloblocco, 2013, day eight: climbing without limits
04/05/2013 - Events
Melloblocco, 2013, day eight: climbing without limits
While over 1300 Melloblockers have already registered and many more are expected, sunny Val Masino welcomed the initiative Climbing without limits promoted by the region of Lombardy, CIP, FASI, ERSAF which aims at a different form of taking to the mountains, for everyone. Paraclimbing athletes Silvia Parente, Simone Salvagnin and...
Everest, interview with Simone Moro after the attack at 7200m
29/04/2013 - Interviews
Everest, interview with Simone Moro after the attack at 7200m
We briefly talked with Simone Moro, currently at Everest Base Camp after he, Ueli Steck and Jon Griffith were attacked at 7200m on their way to Camp 3 on Everest. Here is his account of this incredible, terrifying incident which will require time to understand and comprehend.
Everest: Moro, Steck and Griffith attacked at 7200m
29/04/2013 - Alpinism
Everest: Moro, Steck and Griffith attacked at 7200m
On 27/4/2013 Simone Moro, Ueli Steck and Jon Griffith were attacked by a group of Sherpa while climbing to acclimatise at Camp 3 on Everest. The aggression continued at Camp 2.
Aiguille Blanche de Peuterey: 29 years on the first repeat of the Never Never Face
Aiguille Blanche de Peuterey: 29 years on the first repeat of the Never Never Face
On 23/04/2013 Francesco Civra Dano and Luca Rolli (skis), Julien Herry and Davide Capozzi (snowboard) made the first repeat of the East Face of Aiguille Blanche de Peuterey in the Mont Blanc massif. The famous "face that doesn't exist", first skied on 18 June 1984 by Stefano de Benedetti. Capozzi...
Moose's Tooth in Alaska: David Lama and Dani Arnold fly up their Bird of Prey
24/04/2013 - Alpinism
Moose's Tooth in Alaska: David Lama and Dani Arnold fly up their Bird of Prey
From 12 to 14 April 2013 the alpinists Dani Arnold and David Lama made the first ascent of Bird of Prey (1500m, 6a, M7+, 90°, A2) up the unclimbed headwall of Moose's Tooth in Alaska.
Königsspitze ski mountaineering in Italy
18/04/2013 - Alpinism
Königsspitze ski mountaineering in Italy
Mountain Guide Eraldo Meraldi introduces the classic ski mountaineering to the summit of Königsspitze, one of the most beautiful and sought-after peaks in the Alps.
Alaska: big new climb on Citadel in the remote Kichatna Range
15/04/2013 - Alpinism
Alaska: big new climb on Citadel in the remote Kichatna Range
From 5 - 7 April Ben Erdmann, Jess Roskelley and Kristoffer Szilas made the first ascent of Hypa Zypa Couloir (ED: AI5+, M6+, 5.10R, A3, 1100m) up the East Face of the Citadel in the Kichatna Range, Alaska.
Jottnar, new ice and mixed climb on Aiguille Du Midi
09/04/2013 - Alpinism
Jottnar, new ice and mixed climb on Aiguille Du Midi
On 16/03/2013 the British alpinists Mark Thomas and Dave Almond made the first ascent of a new mixed and ice climb, Jottnar (250m, VIII,8), up the North Face of Aiguille Du Midi, Mont Blanc.
Piolets d'Or 2013: the incomprehensible universal tie
08/04/2013 - Events
Piolets d'Or 2013: the incomprehensible universal tie
Some thoughts about the Jury verdict of the 21st Piolet d'Or 2013 which assigned the award to all six nominated ascents.
Piolets d'Or 2013: everyone wins
06/04/2013 - Events
Piolets d'Or 2013: everyone wins
The prize for the best climb of 2012 was awarded at the end of an exciting ceremony in Courmayeur last night to all six nominated ascents. The Piolet d'Or Walter Bonatti Lifetime Achievement Award was given to Austria's Kurt Diemberger.
Alexander Huber, Sonnwand Nirwana above the Loferer Alm in Austria
04/04/2013 - Alpinism
Alexander Huber, Sonnwand Nirwana above the Loferer Alm in Austria
In September 2012 Alexander Huber made the first ascent of the multi-pitch Nirwana 8c+ on Sonnwand, Loferer Alm, Austria.
Molignon and the video of L'Onda di Hokusai on Rosengarten
04/04/2013 - Alpinism
Molignon and the video of L'Onda di Hokusai on Rosengarten
Video of Philipp Angelo, Andreas Tonelli, Thomas Gianola and Klaus Baumgartner climbing their L'Onda di Hokusai, Molignon di Dentro, Rosengarten, Dolomites.
Jirishanca and the attempt by Michi Wohlleben in Peru
03/04/2013 - Alpinism
Jirishanca and the attempt by Michi Wohlleben in Peru
Interview and video about the 2012 attempt carried out by Michi Wohlleben, Arne Bergau and Hannes Jähn to ascend Jirishanca (6094m) in Peru.
L'Onda di Hokusai, the great new route up Molignon di Dentro in the Dolomites by Angelo and Tonelli
02/04/2013 - Alpinism
L'Onda di Hokusai, the great new route up Molignon di Dentro in the Dolomites by Angelo and Tonelli
Andreas Tonelli reports about L'Onda di Hokusai (750m, WI5+, 60°, M3), the new route he forged together with Philipp Angelo up the NE Face of Molignon di Dentro, Rosengarten, Dolomites.
Eiger North Face: English winter attempt of Russian route
01/04/2013 - Alpinism
Eiger North Face: English winter attempt of Russian route
The video of the march 2013 attempt by Andy Kirkpatrick, Ross Kain and Neil Chelton to repeat the Russian route up the North Face of the Eiger.
Kjerrskredkvelven, great ice repeat in Norway by Scherer and Schmitt
23/03/2013 - Alpinism
Kjerrskredkvelven, great ice repeat in Norway by Scherer and Schmitt
In February 2013 Matthias Scherer and Tanja Schmitt repeated Kjerrskredkvelven, the enormous ice climb in Gudvangen, Norway.

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