145 News found

On the East Face of Fitz Roy in Patagonia Switzerland’s Michael Lerjen-Demjen and Argentina’s Jorge Ackermann have made the first ascent, in alpine style, of Un Mar de Suenos (1200m, 7a, A3, M4).

The 7th Piolet d’Or Asia 2012 was held in Seoul, Korea on 9/11/2012. The alpine award went to the Korean mountaineers Kim Chang-ho and An Chi-young, as well as Zhou Peng and Lee Shuang. Denis Urbko from Kazakhstan won the achievement award.

On Sunday 30/09/2012 Jain Kim from Korea and Ramon Julian Puigblanque from Spain won the 5th stage of the Lead World Cup 2012 in Atlanta (USA) and doubled their takings after victory in Puurs (BEL) a week ago.

Tristano Gallo introduces the crag Monte Bracco in Piemonte, Italy, with more than 500 routes from 4a - 7c+.

Arnaud Petit and Stephanie Bodet recently climbed in the Ala Daglar massif in Turkey where they carried out, amongst others, the first repeat of Red moon and Star put up by Rolando Larcher and Luca Giupponi.

Maurizio Oviglia interviews Dogan Palut, one of the most talented and famous climbers in Turkey.

On 1 -2/08/2012 Italian climbers Giorgio Travaglia and Stefano Valsecchi made the first ascent of Pilastro Parmenide (500m VI + A3+ + 100m of grade II) up the South Face of Cima dell'Auta orientale (Marmolada, Dolomites). The route was started by Travaglia and others in 2010.

In spring 2012 a Slovenian expedition to the Revelation Mountain range in Alaska resulted in a flurry of first ascents up virgin peaks. The trip report by expedition leader Anze Cokl.

The report of Swiss alpinist Ueli Steck who on 18 May 2012 reached the summit of Everest along with Tenji Sherpa. We have published the account in its entirety as this provides insight into the crowds present during this pre-monsoon season, the job of the Sherpa and what it means...

The North Face of Grossglockner: Pallavicinirinne and Mayerlrampe introduced by Vittorio Messini, Mountain Guide Kals am Großglockner.

On the Pilastro della Tofana di Rozes in the Dolomites Massimo Da Pozzo, Natasha Alexander and Samuele Majoni have made the first ascent of Spigolo Sam (6c, 500m circa).

On 16/03/2012 Daniele Natali and Tito Arosio made the first winter ascent of Via Paco (7b (6c+ obligatory), 400m), while a day later Maurizio Panseri and Fulvio Zanetti made the first winter ascent of Via Bosio (7a+ (6°+ obligatory) 430m) up the North Face of Presolana, Italy.

From 28 February to 20 March Hansjörg Auer established The Music of Chance on the Kristallwand face up Kirchkogel in Austria

Michele Caminati talks about the first ascent of his latest creation, Ultimo dei Moicani 8B+ freed on 19 January at Amiata in Tuscany.

On 22,23,24 December 2011 the Italian Mountain Guide Andrea Di Donato and the alpinist from Chile Andres Zegers ascended the South Face of Aconcagua (6962m, Andes, Argentina), establishing a probable 800m new start variation to the Direct French route.

On Tuesday 30 August 2011 Italian alpinist Fabrizio della Rossa carried out what is believed to be the first solo ascent, and one of the rare repeats, of via Casarotto on Cima Civetta 3220m (Dolomites).