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N as in… Nordland! Ski mountaineering in solitude around Narvik in Norway
N as in… Nordland! Ski mountaineering in solitude around Narvik in Norway
The report by mountain guide Giancarlo Maritano of a short ski touring trip in Norway, not to the more famous Lofoten Islands and the Tromsø area, but to the Nordland county. Based in Narvik, the group skied the peaks of Rivtind (1452m), Storfjellet (1633m), Nevertind (1420m) and Spanstinden (1457m), discovering...
Mathéo Jacquemoud completes Full Alpine Traverse from Vienna to Nice by fair means in 19 days
Mathéo Jacquemoud completes Full Alpine Traverse from Vienna to Nice by fair means in 19 days
On Thursday 26 March 2026 French mountain guide Mathéo Jacquemoud reached the beach in Nice, having made a traverse of the Alps in 19 days. After setting off from Vienna on 7 March, the former ski mountaineering world champion negotiated 86,000 meters of elevation gain and 2,200 km in total...
Mutante mixed climb established on Petites Jorasses by Matteo Della Bordella, Mirco Grasso, Giacomo Mauri
23/03/2026 - Alpinism
Mutante mixed climb established on Petites Jorasses by Matteo Della Bordella, Mirco Grasso, Giacomo Mauri
On the south face of the Petites Jorasses in the Mont Blanc massif, Matteo Della Bordella, Mirco Grasso and Giacomo Mauri opened the mixed climb 'Mutante' (M8, 6c, AI4+, 520m) on 19 and 20 March 2026
'Perhaps the most beautiful corner in the Écrins?' New climb added to Aiguille Orientale du Soreiller by Melvin Bou, Kilian Moni, Étienne Poteaux
06/03/2026 - Alpinism
'Perhaps the most beautiful corner in the Écrins?' New climb added to Aiguille Orientale du Soreiller by Melvin Bou, Kilian Moni, Étienne Poteaux
From 2-3 March 2026 French alpinists Melvin Bou, Kilian Moni and Étienne Poteaux made the first ascent of 'Y’a comme un pecker dans la soupe' (420m, M8/A2) on the north face of Aiguille Orientale du Soreiller in the Écrins massif.
Assessing the danger of bolts at coastal crags. A proposal by Maurizio Oviglia
27/02/2026 - Climbing
Assessing the danger of bolts at coastal crags. A proposal by Maurizio Oviglia
The safety of bolts on climbs close to the sea remains a very important issue, not only at the crags and multipitch routes on Sardinia and those overlooking the Mediterranean Sea, but also elsewhere. To avoid future accidents due to bolt failure, Maurizio Oviglia calls for greater awareness among all...
Out Of The Blue discovered on Cima Busazza (Presanella, Italy)
23/02/2026 - Alpinism
Out Of The Blue discovered on Cima Busazza (Presanella, Italy)
On 22/01/2026, on the north face of Cima Busazza in the Adamello – Presanella Group, Emanuele Andreozzi and Ruggero Samaden opened the mixed route 'Out Of The Blue'. Andreozzi reports.
Renato Casarotto's historic first winter ascent of Diedro Cozzolino on Piccolo Mangart in the Julian Alps
06/01/2026 - Alpinism
Renato Casarotto's historic first winter ascent of Diedro Cozzolino on Piccolo Mangart in the Julian Alps
We are reproducing, courtesy of the Gorizia section of the Italian Mountaineering Club, the account of the historic first winter ascent of 'Diedro Nord' of Piccolo Mangart di Coritenza in the Julian Alps. Also referred to as 'Diedro Cozzolino', this dihedral was climbed solo by the Italian alpinist Renato Casarotto...
Azzardo Estremo on Sckem Braq in Pakistan by Chiara Gusmeroli, Matteo De Zaiacomo
04/12/2025 - Alpinism
Azzardo Estremo on Sckem Braq in Pakistan by Chiara Gusmeroli, Matteo De Zaiacomo
Matteo De Zaiacomo recounts the first ascent in August 2024, with Chiara Gusmeroli, of 'Azzardo Estremo' on Sckem Braq in the Nangma Valley in Pakistan. 900 metres long, the route was opened alpine style and consists of 26 pitches with difficulties up to 7a and A3.
Alexander Odintsov to receive Piolets d'Or Carrière Lifetime Achievement Award 2025, Benjamin Védrines receives Special Metion
11/11/2025 - Alpinism
Alexander Odintsov to receive Piolets d'Or Carrière Lifetime Achievement Award 2025, Benjamin Védrines receives Special Metion
Russian mountaineer Alexander Odintsov has been named as 2025 recipient of the Piolets d'Or Carrière. He will receive the 17th Walter Bonatti - Piolets d’Or Lifetime Achievement Award at the international festival in San Martino di Castrozza (Dolomites, Italy) in December, and follows in the footsteps of Walter Bonatti, Reinhold...
New climb on Corno Grande del Gran Sasso (Italy) by Fay Manners, Marco Malcangi
08/09/2025 - Climbing
New climb on Corno Grande del Gran Sasso (Italy) by Fay Manners, Marco Malcangi
On 05/09/2025 Marco Malcangi and Fay Manners made the first ascent of 'Eppure Siamo Andati', a new climb on the IV pillar of Corno Grande Vetta Orientale, Gran Sasso d'Italia. The 200m new climb joins the final 250m of the historical Mario - Caruso (Luigi Mario, Emilio Caruso 1959) to...
Climbing at the Lamar Lakes close to Arco, Italy
11/08/2025 - Climbing
Climbing at the Lamar Lakes close to Arco, Italy
Introducing the Lamar crag Lamar Crag at the Lamar Lakes in Valle dei Laghi, Garda Trentino, Italy. An easily accessible crag with short routes (5b to 6a), perfect orientation for climbing in summer, and ideal for beginners and children.
Hard winter ascent on Cima Busazza (Italy) by Emanuele Andreozzi, Stefano Falezza
27/03/2025 - Alpinism
Hard winter ascent on Cima Busazza (Italy) by Emanuele Andreozzi, Stefano Falezza
On 7 March 2025, Emanuele Andreozzi and Stefano Falezza made what is likely to be the first winter ascent of 'Via Dell’Eva-Taddei' on the north face of Cima Busazza (Presanella, Italy). The summer climb, first ascended in 1969 and originally graded V+, was reinterpreted by Andreozzi and Falezza in a...
Seb Bouin makes first ascent of hardest climb in China
06/02/2025 - Climbing
Seb Bouin makes first ascent of hardest climb in China
French rock climber Sébastien Bouin has made the first ascent of 'El Gran Cabrón' in the Shegeng Cave in China. Graded 9b, this now stands as the hardest sport climb in the country
The fifth Lecco Spider on the summit of Cerro Torre in 1974
01/07/2024 - Alpinism
The fifth Lecco Spider on the summit of Cerro Torre in 1974
From the MOdiSCA archive an iconic photo taken by the Italian Ragni di Lecco expedition documenting the first ascent of the west face of Cerro Torre in Patagonia in 1974: the fifth Lecco Spider on the mountain's summit, with Casimiro Ferrari, Mario Conti, Pino Negri and Daniele Chiappa. Text by...
San Martino di Castrozza (Dolomites, Italy) to host Piolets d’Or 2024
13/06/2024 - Events
San Martino di Castrozza (Dolomites, Italy) to host Piolets d’Or 2024
The 2024 edition of the 'Piolets d’Or, the prestigious mountaineering award, will be held in San Martino di Castrozza, in Trentino, Italy, from 8 - 11 December 2024.
The wonderful world called Melloblocco
13/05/2024 - Events
The wonderful world called Melloblocco
The Melloblocco, the largest bouldering meeting in the world which this year celebrated 20 years since its historic first edition, ended after four days of climbing and celebration. 2600 registered climbers and over 8000 people in total in the valley enjoyed 4 days of sun and untouched nature in Val...

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