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Alexander Huber, Om and Adam Ondra
19/06/2009 - Climbing
Alexander Huber, Om and Adam Ondra
On 14/06/2009 Adam Ondra carried out the first repeat of Om 9a, the route first ascended in 1992 by Alexander Huber at Endstal in Germany.
Kangchenjunga, summits and abandoned attempts
19/05/2009 - Alpinism
Kangchenjunga, summits and abandoned attempts
On 18/05 at 2.30 pm Ferran Latorre from Spain reached the summit of Kangchenjunga. His companions Edurne Pasaban, Juanito Oiarzabal, Asier Izguirre and Alex Chicon summited circa two hours later, at 4:45pm. The Italians Nives Meroi and Romano Benet have abandoned their attempt and returned to Base Camp.
Mezzalama 2009 – an emotional story
12/05/2009 - Competitions
Mezzalama 2009 – an emotional story
The XVII Mezzalama Trophy took place on Monte Rosa on 02/05/2009. The legendary ski mountaineering competition was won by Manfred Reichegger, Matteo Eydallin and Denis Trento in a record breaking 4:01'22. The women's event was won by Francesca Martinelli, Roberta Pedranzini, Laetitia Roux in 4:43'31".
Jobo Rinjang first ascent by Joseph Puryear and David Gottlieb
05/05/2009 - Alpinism
Jobo Rinjang first ascent by Joseph Puryear and David Gottlieb
Americans Joseph Puryear and David Gottlieb have made the first ascent of Jobo Rinjang (6,778 meters) via the direct South Face. This mountain is a satellite summit in the Lunag massif, Khumbu Region of Nepal.
Nives Meroi, Romano Benet and the South Face of Annapurna
10/04/2009 - Alpinism
Nives Meroi, Romano Benet and the South Face of Annapurna
After failing to even reach Kangchenjunga and being forced therefore to Change plans, Nives Meroi and Romano Benet are currently attempting the South Face of Annapurna in orderto climb their 12th 8000m peak. Prevailing conditions on the mountain continue to be difficult and our man in the field Manuel Lugli...
Bernd Zangerl Chironico bouldering fest
07/04/2009 - Climbing
Bernd Zangerl Chironico bouldering fest
On 17 March Bernd Zangerl carried out the first repeat of "From Dirt Grows The Flowers", the Fb8c problem first climbed by Dave Graham in 2005 at Chironico, Switzerland.
Winds of change for climbing on Czech sandstone
02/04/2009 - Climbing
Winds of Change for climbing on Czech sandstone
The Czech Mountaineering Union has passed a bill, still to be accepted by the Ministry of Environment, approving the use of chalk on Czech sandstone.
La linea dei Sogni at Erto by Luca Zardini
02/04/2009 - Climbing
La linea dei Sogni at Erto by Luca Zardini
On 14/03/2009 Luca Zardini carried out the first ascent of "La linea dei Sogni" (8c+), the extension to the legendary "Sogni di Gloria" at Erto (Italy).
Cima Grande della Scala, first winter ascent of Lomasti - Mazzillis by Vuerich and Laurencig
31/03/2009 - Alpinism
Cima Grande della Scala, first winter ascent of Lomasti - Mazzillis by Vuerich and Laurencig
On 13 and 14 March Luca Vuerich and Massimo Laurencig carried out the first winter ascent of the difficult Fessura Lomasti (400m, VI, pass. di VIII-) on the pre-summit of Cima Grande della Scala (Val Riofreddo, Julian Alps, Italy).
Paolo Rabbia, first winter ski traverse of the Alps
Paolo Rabbia, first winter ski traverse of the Alps
Interview with Paolo Rabbia who from 29/12/2008 to 28/02/2009 carried out the first ski mountaineering traverse of the Alps in winter without the help of mechanical transport.
Adam Ondra climbing at Angelone and Cornalba
25/03/2009 - Climbing
Adam Ondra climbing at Angelone and Cornalba
On 20 March 16 year old Adam Ondra made the first ascents of Riti Tribali 8c+ and Nonono 8c at Angelone, while on 21 March at Cornalba he repeated Les Sindacalistes 8c+ second go before onsighting Outsider (8a+). Adam Ondra's full report and thoughts about his Italian holiday.
Masada Sass Maor, first winter ascent by Larcher and Leoni
10/03/2009 - Alpinism
Masada Sass Maor, first winter ascent by Larcher and Leoni
From 27 - 28 February 2009 Rolando Larcher and Fabio Leoni carried out the first winter ascent of via Masada (1260m, VIII, A0) on the East Face of Sass Maor (Pale di San Martino, Dolomites). The story by Larcher and video of the ascent.
Ice climbing and its history: Repentance 20 years on
09/03/2009 - Alpinism
Ice climbing and its history: Repentance 20 years on
Repentance was first climbed in Cogne, Valle d'Aosta in 1989 by François Damilano, Fulvio Conta and Giancarlo Grassi and soon became the symbol of a new ice climbing era in the Alps. Twenty years after the first ascent Damilano and Conta joined forces once again to repeat the route. Elio...
Piolets d'Or 2009, preview
02/03/2009 - Events
Piolets d'Or 2009, preview
From 22 - 25 April the 17th edition of the Piolets d'Or will take place between Chamonix and Courmayeur. This is possibly the most famous mountaineering award in the world, so much so that it has been defined as the Oscar of alpinism.
Jerry Moffatt interview
26/02/2009 - Interviews
Jerry Moffatt interview
Interview with Jerry Moffatt, one of the most successful climbers in the world during the 1980's and 1990's, with important first ascents such as Stone Love 8b+ in Germany's Frankenjura and Liquid Ambar 8c+ at Lower Pen Trwyn, Wales and The Ace FB8B at Stanage, England.
Spain climbing action: Chris Sharma at Margalef, Geoffray De Flaugergues at Alquezar
24/02/2009 - Climbing
Spain climbing action: Chris Sharma at Margalef, Geoffray De Flaugergues at Alquezar
Chris Sharma has made the first ascent of Demencia Senil 9a+ at Margalef while 13 year old Geoffray De Flaugergues from France has repeated El templo del cafe 8c+/9a at Alquezar.