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Simon Anthamatten interview
08/02/2010 - Interviews
Simon Anthamatten interview
Ellade Ossola interviews Swiss alpinist and mountain guide Simon Anthamatten, a key player in the mountaineering world with important ascents to his name which have their roots in his desire to maintain an "independent" alpinism.
Claudio Corti, goodbye to the alpinist and man
04/02/2010 - Alpinism
Claudio Corti, goodbye to the alpinist and man
Italian alpinist Claudio Corti died during the night of 3 February at the age of 81 at his home in Lecco. He will be remembered as a member of the Gruppo Ragni della Grignetta but also as a man who knew how to tackle great tests, both in the mountains...
Centercourt repeated twice in the Gasteinertal, Austria
01/02/2010 - Alpinism
Centercourt repeated twice in the Gasteinertal, Austria
Centercourt, the new extreme testpiece first climbed by Albert Leichtfried and Benedikt Purner at the start of Janauary, has been repeated twice, by the Slovenians Aljaz Anderle and Klemen Premrl and the Austrians Rudolf Hauser and Helmut Holleis.
Gratta e vinci, new mixed route for Florian Riegler
28/01/2010 - Alpinism
Gratta e vinci, new mixed route for Florian Riegler
Last December the South Tyroleans Florian Riegler, Hannes Lehmyer and Tamara Lunger carried out the first ascent of Gratta e vinci (120m, M10, WI 5) at the Passo delle Pedale/Mendola. On 21/12/09 Florian and his brother Martin made the first redpoint ascent.
Reinhold Messner interview
27/01/2010 - Interviews
Reinhold Messner interview
Reinhold Messner, his life and alpinism beyond the 8000m peaks. Interview by Erminio Ferrari and Ellade Ossola.
Rudolf Hauser: solo ascent of Supervisor and first integral ascent of Gamsstubenfall in the Gasteinertal
20/01/2010 - Alpinism
Rudolf Hauser: solo ascent of Supervisor and first integral ascent of Gamsstubenfall in the Gasteinertal
On 4 Janaury 2010 the Austrian climbers Rudolf Hauser, Alexander Holleis and Rupert Huber carried out the first integral ascen of Gamsstubenfall (800m, WI7), one of the last great icefalls in the Gasteinertal, Austria. On 12 January Hauser climbed the classic icefall Supervisor (270m, WI6) without a rope.
Ouray Ice Festival 2010
17/01/2010 - Events
Ouray Ice Festival 2010
The fifteenth international Ice Festival took place in Ouray (USA) a fortnight ago. The event attracted thousands of ice climbers and the competition was won by Josh Wharton (USA) and Ines Papert (GER). Will Gadd from Canada climbed almost 8000m of vertical ice in a 24 hour non-stop marathon to...
Sandro Neri: 10 years for Emicrania
16/12/2009 - Climbing
Sandro Neri: 10 years for Emicrania
After 10 years of trying the Italian climber Sandro Neri has managed to repeat Emicrania 8b at Ceresera (Belluno).
Echo Wall, Ben Nevis, by Dave Macleod
15/12/2009 - Climbing
Echo Wall, Ben Nevis, by Dave Macleod
Dave Macleod analyses his ascent of Echo Wall on Ben Nevis. Climbed in July 2008, this terrifying route represented a new level of trad climbing for the 29 year old Scottish climber.
La lingua pura 7c, new multi-pitch climb on Monte Monaco, Sicily
01/12/2009 - Climbing
La lingua pura 7c, new multi-pitch climb on Monte Monaco, Sicily
Austrian Mountain Guide Albert Leichtfried has made the first ascent of La lingua pura (7c, 6c oblig, 200m) on the North Face of Monte Monaco close to San Vito lo Capo in Sicily, Italy, together with Paul Mair.
Alan Watts climbing interview
26/11/2009 - Climbing
Alan Watts climbing interview
Interview with Alan Watts, the climber who played a leading role during the 1980's in developing Smith Rock into one of the most famous crags in the USA and the world.
Kilian Fischhuber repeats Des Kaisers neue Kleider 8b+
23/11/2009 - Climbing
Kilian Fischhuber repeats Des Kaisers neue Kleider 8b+
Kilian Fischhuber from Austria has repeated Des Kaisers neue Kleider (250m, 8b+) on the Wilder Kaiser, Austria.
Tomaz Humar found dead on Langtang Lirung
14/11/2009 - Alpinism
Tomaz Humar found dead on Langtang Lirung
This morning at 05.25 European time the dead body of Slovenian alpinist Tomasz Humar was recovered from 5600m on the South Face of Langtang Lirung (7230m, Nepal) by a helicopter with a rescue team comprised of Swissmen Robert Andenmatten and Simon Anthmatten (Air Zermatt) and the Italians Oskar Piazza and...
Arthur Kubista, a 9a+ for his 45th birthday
10/11/2009 - Climbing
Arthur Kubista, a 9a+ for his 45th birthday
45 year old Arthur Kubista has made the first ascent of Der lange Atem 9a+ at Schattenreich, Höllental, Austria. Maurizio Oviglia recounts this latest ascent of one of the strongest and least known Austrian climbers of all times.
Masada, Sass Maor, Dolomites: first free ascent by Riccardo Scarian
03/11/2009 - Climbing
Masada, Sass Maor, Dolomites: first free ascent by Riccardo Scarian
Interview with Riccardo Scarian who on 27/10/2009 climbed the second half of Masada on Sass Maor (Pale di San Martino, Dolomites), and freed the crux pitch at 8b.
Wenden: Andreas and Neumärker climb Zahir+ 8c
30/10/2009 - Climbing
Wenden: Andreas and Neumärker climb Zahir+ 8c
Jörg Andreas and Felix Neumärker from Germany carried out the first repeat of Zahir on the Wendenstöcke in the Bernese Oberland, Switzerland, extending a pitch and upgrading it to 8c.