103 News found

On Combe Maudite, in the Mont Blanc massif, two new ice and mixed routes have been climbed, Saumons et Glacons (M5+ WI5 R, 500m, Enrico Bonino, Luca Breveglieri, Olivier Colaye) and An... ice surprise (M7, W15, A1+, III, 350m Enrico Bonino, Giulia Venturelli). Report by Enrico Bonino.

On 4/09/2013 Giovani Bassanini and Lamberto Camurri made the first ascent of Astro Zap (7a), a line that climbs the crack avoided by the Via Diretta Bonatti, first climbed by Walter Bonatti and Cosimo Zappelli in 1963 up Le Trident du Tacul in the Mont Blanc massif.

Canadian climber Sonnie Trotter has made the first free ascent of the rock climb '1975' on Little Goat Mountain, Bow Valley, Canadian Rockies

The report by Diego Pezzoli about the first ascent of Baba Jaga (V 6a A2+, 180m),a new aid climb up the Maslana pinnacle, above Valbondione, Italy.

In June 2014 the three young Italian alpinists Tito Arosio, Saro Costa and Luca Vallata visited the Cordillera Huayhuash in Perù where they made the first ascent of "El malefico Sefkow", a new route up the West Face of Monte Quesillio (5600m). Furthermore, the three attempted climbs on Tsacra Grande,...

In February 2014 Ines Papert, Rudi Hauser Thomas Senf made three first ascents in Norway: Finnmonster (A2+, WI6 400m) on Senja Island, Eagles Paradise (8/IIIV WI5 500m) up Roalden and Crazy Maze (8+/IX WI4+ 600m) up Breitinden.

At the end of November 2013 Iker Pou and his brother Eneko made the first free ascent of La Tarragó at Montserrat in Spain. The 240m line boasted difficulties up to 8b+ but subsequently the bolts were removed by unknown climbers and, as such, no longer exists.

Diego Pezzoli recounts his recent of the aid climb Atlantis (400m, A1+/A2, 8-/8) up the Blamann Wall, Kvaløya Island, Norway.

Tito Arosio and Luca Vallata introduce their variation to Li-Cuore (450m, VII+, A3, VII- obl.) that climbs between the South Tyrolean route and Via Cuore up the NE Face of Monte Agner (Dolomites).

Diego Pezzoli talks about the Alpine Marathon, the particular aid climbing competition which took place from 14-16 June at Svetogorsk in Russia.

Interview with American climber Chris McNamara, an expert big wall climber and author of the recently published book How To Big Wall Climb.

Two new difficult icefalls in Austria's Gasteinertal established by Thomas Bubendorfer, Sepp Inhöger and Hans Zlöbl: Triple A and The usual suspects

On the East Face of Fitz Roy in Patagonia Switzerland’s Michael Lerjen-Demjen and Argentina’s Jorge Ackermann have made the first ascent, in alpine style, of Un Mar de Suenos (1200m, 7a, A3, M4).

On 1 -2/08/2012 Italian climbers Giorgio Travaglia and Stefano Valsecchi made the first ascent of Pilastro Parmenide (500m VI + A3+ + 100m of grade II) up the South Face of Cima dell'Auta orientale (Marmolada, Dolomites). The route was started by Travaglia and others in 2010.

Interview with American climber Alex Honnold after his immense and fast solo of the Yosemite Triple in Yosemite Valley, USA.

The videos of the six ascents nominated for the Piolet d'Or 2012, awarded to the Slovenians Nejc Marcic and Luka Strazar for their ascent of K7 West (Pakistan) and the Americans Mark Richey, Steve Swenson and Freddie Wilkinson for their ascent of Torre Egger (Patagonia) by Bjorn-Eivind Aartun and Ole...