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Midnight Lightning: Filippo Manca explores the legendary Ron Kauk boulder problem in Yosemite
06/11/2017 - Climbing
Midnight Lightning: Filippo Manca explores the legendary Ron Kauk boulder problem in Yosemite
Filippo Manca talks about his bouldering trip to America where, in Yosemite, he managed to repeat the legendary Midnight Lightning boulder problem. Moments later he encountered American climbing legend Ron Kauk who, in 1978, made the first ascent of what has transformed into one of the most famous boulder problems...
The Nose Speed, new record set by Brad Gobright and Jim Reynolds on El Capitan
27/10/2017 - Interviews
The Nose Speed, new record set by Brad Gobright and Jim Reynolds on El Capitan
Interview with American climber Jim Reynolds who on 21 October 2017 teamed up with Brad Gobright to speed climb The Nose on El Capitan in Yosemite in 2:19:44. In doing so they beat the previous speed record set in 2012 by Alex Honnold and Hans Florine by almost four minutes.
Shivling, big new route in Indian Himalaya climbed by Simon Gietl and Vittorio Messini
26/10/2017 - Alpinism
Shivling, big new route in Indian Himalaya climbed by Simon Gietl and Vittorio Messini
Mountaineering news: in October Simon Gietl and Vittorio Messini made the first ascent of Shiva's Ice, a beautiful new route up Shivling (6543 m) in the Indian Himalayas.
Janja Garnbret wins Lead World Cup 2017, Anak Verhoeven and Keiichiro Korenaga win in Xiamen
16/10/2017 - Competitions
Janja Garnbret wins Lead World Cup 2017, Anak Verhoeven and Keiichiro Korenaga win in Xiamen
The penultimate stage of the Lead World Cup 2017 was won yesterday at Xiamen in China by Anak Verhoeven from Belgium and Keiichiro Korenaga from Japan. Slovenia's Janja Garnbret placed third and secured overall victory in the Lead World Cup. The Speed World Cup 2017 was won by Anouck Jaubert...
Nangpai Gosum II first ascended by Jost Kobusch
12/10/2017 - Alpinism
Nangpai Gosum II first ascended by Jost Kobusch
24-year-old German alpinist Jost Kobusch claims the first ascent of Nangpai Gosum II, the 7296 meter high mountain located on the border between Nepal and China.
Goodbye to Franček Knez, Slovenia's silent climber
09/10/2017 - Alpinism
Goodbye to Franček Knez, Slovenia's silent climber
62-year-old Slovenian mountaineer Franček Knez died on 6 October 2017. Reserved and modest, Knez was considered by many as one of the strongest alpinists of his generation. Published below is a profile written by Slovenian journalist Urban Golob in 2010 when, together with Silvo Karo, Knez was conferred the Order...
Slovaks climb new route up Pik Alexander Blok in Pamir Alay, Kyrgyzstan
02/10/2017 - Alpinism
Slovaks climb new route up Pik Alexander Blok in Pamir Alay, Kyrgyzstan
Mountaineering in the Pamir Alay, Kyrgyzstan: in the Ak-Su region the Slovak mountaineers Martin Grajciar, Ondrej Huserka, Jozef Kristoffy and Vladimir Linek spent seven weeks from July 27th to September 10th 2017 making the first ascent of 'Summer Bouquet', a new climb up the West Face of Pik Aleksander Blok...
Alexander Megos on belaying Margo Hayes up Biographie at Céüse
28/09/2017 - Interviews
Alexander Megos on belaying Margo Hayes up Biographie at Céüse
A semi-serious interview with Germany’s ace climber Alexander Megos who belayed Margo Hayes during her historic first female ascent of Biographie at Céüse in France.
New mixed climbs in Alaska's Revelation Mountains
26/09/2017 - Alpinism
New mixed climbs in Alaska's Revelation Mountains
Mountaineering in Alaska: in spring 2017 Lithuania’s Gediminas Simutis (28) and Germany's Frieder Wittmann (31) pulled off a series of interesting first ascents above the remote Fish Glacier in the Revelation Mountains. The trip report by Simutis.
Margo Hayes first female ascent of Biographie 9a+ at Céüse
25/09/2017 - Climbing
Margo Hayes first female ascent of Biographie 9a+ at Céüse
Sport climbing: on 24 September 2017 Margo Hayes repeated Biographie 9a+ at Ceuse in France. In doing so the American has made the first female ascent of this mega climb freed by Chris Sharma in 2001.
Adam Ondra, new climbing projects after Silence at Flatanger
19/09/2017 - Climbing
Adam Ondra, new climbing projects after Silence at Flatanger
After having freed the world’s first 9c, Adam Ondra has discovered two new projects at Flatanger in Norway which could be as difficult as 9b+.
Kalymnos, 20 years of rock climbing in Greece
18/09/2017 - Climbing
Kalymnos, 20 years of rock climbing in Greece
The small island of Kalymnos in Greece, without a doubt one world's premier sport climbing destinations, celebrates 20 years of rock climbing holidays.
Beat Kammerlander frees Kampfzone, a rare climbing gem in the Rätikon
15/09/2017 - Climbing
Beat Kammerlander frees Kampfzone, a rare climbing gem in the Rätikon
Interview with Austrian climber Beat Kammerlander after the first free ascent of his alpine sports climb Kampfzone (8c) in the Rätikon massif.
Spaniards claim two new climbs and one first free ascent in Peru
10/09/2017 - Alpinism
Spaniards claim two new climbs and one first free ascent in Peru
The brothers Iker Pou and Eneko Pou, together with Manu Ponce and Pedro Galán, have made the first ascent of two new rock climbs in Peru: Yaku Mama (7a+ / 185 m) next to the Gocta Falls in Amazonia, and Zerain 8a / 860 m in the valley of Quebrada...
Canada's Monarch Mountain SW Pillar first ascent by Simon Richardson and Michael Rinn
29/08/2017 - Alpinism
Canada's Monarch Mountain SW Pillar first ascent by Simon Richardson and Michael Rinn
The trip report by Simon Richardson who from 4 - 6 August together with Michael Rinn made the first ascent of Game of Thrones (ED2, 1250m), the first route up the South-West Face of Monarch Mountain (3572m) in the Coast Mountains of British Columbia in Canada.
Adam Ondra and Julia Chanourdie win Arco Rock Master 2017
28/08/2017 - Competitions
Adam Ondra and Julia Chanourdie win Arco Rock Master 2017
The 31st Arco Rock Master Trophy was won using the Duel formula on 26 August 2017 by Adam Ondra and Julia Chanourdie. A few hours earlier the fourth stage of the Lead World Cup was won by Jakob Schubert and Jain Kim, while the Speed World ​​Cup was won by...