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Adieu Patrick Edlinger
17/11/2012 - Climbing
Adieu Patrick Edlinger
On Friday 16 November 2012 Patrick Edlinger died aged 52. The Frenchman was one of the early pioneers and absolute legends of sport climbing.
Mick Fowler and the ascent of Prow of Shiva
16/11/2012 - Alpinism
Mick Fowler and the ascent of Prow of Shiva
A short interview with British mountaineer Mick Fowler who, together with Paul Ramsden, climbed the stunning new route Prow of Shiva ED+ up Mt. Shiva (6,142m), India.
Freerider in Yosemite repeated by Della Bordella and Bacci
15/11/2012 - Climbing
Freerider in Yosemite repeated by Della Bordella and Bacci
The report by Matteo della Bordella about his recent free ascent, together with David Bacci, of Freerider, the famous climb freed by Alexander and Thomas Huber on El Capitan, Yosemite.
Hotel Supramonte, do masterpieces age? The story of extraordinary maintenance of an extraordinary climb
14/11/2012 - Climbing
Hotel Supramonte, do masterpieces age? The story of extraordinary maintenance of an extraordinary climb
Maurizio Oviglia reports about the recent rebolting of the famous rock climb Hotel Supramonte. Established in 1998/99 by Rolando Larcher and Roberto Vigiani, Sardina’s famous multi-pitch has now been restored to its former glory by Larcher and Oviglia, with the new stainless steel bolts placed (obviously) in exactly the same...
Dawn Wall, the El Capitan project continues
13/11/2012 - Climbing
Dawn Wall, the El Capitan project continues
Tommy Caldwell, Kevin Jorgeson Jonathan Siegrist are currently working the crux central pitches of the demanding Dawn Wall project on El Capitan, Yosemite, USA.
Sardinia, 4 new rocks climbs on Monte Oddeu
12/11/2012 - Climbing
Sardinia, 4 new rocks climbs on Monte Oddeu
Four new rock climbs have seen the light of day in the Monte Oddeu massif (Dorgali, Sardinia). These 200m outings are entirely bolt protected, climb, splendid rock and fit in to "plaisir" category.
International Master’s Course in Mountain Medicine, the final report by Doctor Luigi Festi
08/11/2012 - Alpinism
International Master’s Course in Mountain Medicine, the final report by Doctor Luigi Festi
The 1st International Master Course in Mountain Medicine will be completed with the final thesis and diploma at the Insubria University. This project, unique and innovative, came to life as a real challenge and involved 14 doctors from all of Italy, combining technical ability with hands on experience and mountain...
Michi Wohlleben frees Hystrix
07/11/2012 - Climbing
Michi Wohlleben frees Hystrix
German climber Michi Wohlleben has made the first free ascent of Hystrix (200m, 8a+ max, 7a obligatory), the climb established by Matteo Giglio with partners up the north face of Pizzo Campana (Rocca Busambra), close to Palermo, Italy.
Striking Shiva success for Fowler and Ramsden
05/11/2012 - Alpinism
Striking Shiva success for Fowler and Ramsden
In October 2012 British alpinists Mick Fowler and Paul Ramsden made the first ascent of Prow of Shiva ED+ up Mt. Shiva (6,142m), India.
Tommy Caldwell and his intense Rätikon and Wenden climbing tour
31/10/2012 - Alpinism
Tommy Caldwell and his intense Rätikon and Wenden climbing tour
Climbing in Europe from the point of view of ace American climber Tommy Caldwell who ascended a series of difficult multi-pitches in Rätikon, Val Bavona and Wenden, including the repeat of Portami Via which included the first ascent of a pitch variation.
Arwa Spire, Roger Schäli and Simon Gietl free Fior di Vite
30/10/2012 - Alpinism
Arwa Spire, Roger Schäli and Simon Gietl free Fior di Vite
In September 2012 Roger Schäli and Simon Gietl made the first free ascent of Fior di Vite (800m, 90°, M5, 7a) up Arwa Spire (6193m), India, the route established by Schäli himself along with Hasler and Harvey in 2002.
Ines Papert frees Schwarze Madonna on Untersberg
26/10/2012 - Climbing
Ines Papert frees Schwarze Madonna on Untersberg
On 6/10/2012 Ines Papert made the first free ascent of Schwarze Madonna (8a+, 180m) on Untersberg in Germany.
Pearson and Ciavaldini climbing in Italy
25/10/2012 - Climbing
Pearson and Ciavaldini climbing in Italy
Video of James Pearson and Caroline Ciavaldini at Muzzerone in the footsteps of Italian sport climbing history.
Roland Hemetzberger frees Karlspitze Südwand
23/10/2012 - Climbing
Roland Hemetzberger frees Karlspitze Südwand
On 22/10/12 Roland Hemetzberger made the first free ascent of Südwand (150m, 10-) up Karlspitze, Wilder Kaiser, Austria.
Via dei 6 Pilastri, new route on the Marmolada by Giordani, Ferrari and Paoletto
05/10/2012 - Alpinism
Via dei 6 Pilastri, new route on the Marmolada by Giordani, Ferrari and Paoletto
Last summer Maurizio Giordani, Luciano Ferrari and Nancy Paoletto made the first ascent of Via dei 6 Pilastri (940m, 6b+) up the South Face of Piz dell'Anticima Serauta (Marmolada, Dolomites)
In memory of Alberto Magliano
24/09/2012 - Alpinism
In memory of Alberto Magliano
Alberto Magliano, one of the climbers who died in the terrible avalanche on Manaslu, in the words of climbing partner Michele Comi.