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The Nose and the attempt by Dobrinskiy and Gelmanov
15/02/2013 - Climbing
The Nose and the attempt by Dobrinskiy and Gelmanov
Video of the Russian climbers Pavel Dobrinskiy and Rustam Gelmanov and their attempt to repeat The Nose in Yosemite, USA.
Superb new winter climbs in Scotland
12/02/2013 - Alpinism
Superb new winter climbs in Scotland
A report of the recent new winter routes climbed in Scotland which include Shooting the Breeze (IX,8 Guy Robertson, Greg Boswell) and Immortal Memory (IX,9 Guy Robertson, Jason Currie) on Beinn Eighe, Vapourizer (VIII,8 Guy Robertson, Greg Boswell) on Creag an Dubh Loch, No Success Like Failure (IX,8 Simon Richardson,...
Piolets d'Or 2013: Kurt Diemberger receives Lifetime Achievement Award
06/02/2013 - Events
Piolets d'Or 2013: Kurt Diemberger receives Lifetime Achievement Award
From 3 - 6 April 2013 Courmayeur and Chamonix will be the world's capital of alpinism thanks to the 21st Piolets d’Or, the international award dedicated to alpinism.
Difficult winter ascent of Trollveggen Troll Wall in Norway
02/02/2013 - Alpinism
Difficult winter ascent of Trollveggen Troll Wall in Norway
Andy Kirkpatrick, Tormod Granheim and Aleksander Gamme have made a winter ascent of the route Suser Gjennom Harryland on Trollveggen (Troll Wall) in Norway.
Gladiator, new icefall in Valle Riofreddo
30/01/2013 - Alpinism
Gladiator, new icefall in Valle Riofreddo
On 26/01/2013 the Slovenians Dejan Koren and Boötjan Mikuû made the first ascent of Gladiator (205 m, IV, M7-, WI6, X, R) a difficult new icefall on Cima delle Cenge, Valle di Riofreddo (Tarvisio, Tridente area), Italy.
Flammes de Pierre, first descent by Capozzi, Herry and Gross
Flammes de Pierre, first descent by Capozzi, Herry and Gross
On 18/01/2013, Davide Capozzi, Manu Gross and Julien Herry made the first complete snowboard descent of Couloir Jess, Flammes de Pierre (Mont Blanc).
Pilastro Magno, Sassolungo first winter ascent by Milani and Travaglia
22/01/2013 - Alpinism
Pilastro Magno, Sassolungo first winter ascent by Milani and Travaglia
On 8, 9 and 10 January 2013, Giorgio Travaglia and Francesco Milani made the first wintere ascent - with two bivouacs - of "Pilastro Magno" (950m, VI), the route established in summer 1993 by Ivo Rabanser and Marco Furlani up the NE Face of Sassolungo (Dolomites).
New modern mixed climb in Valnontey
20/01/2013 - Alpinism
New modern mixed climb in Valnontey
The 12-13/1/2013 Enrico Bonino, Giancarlo Bazzocchi, Elio Bonfanti and Andrea Fazzari made the first ascent of "Dio li Fa... e poi li accoppia" 60m, M5 WI5 5c + RX) a new mixed climb in Valnontey (Cogne, Valle d'Aosta, Italy).
Psyco Killer, the great icefall on Tofana di Mezzo, Dolomites
17/01/2013 - Alpinism
Psyco Killer, the great icefall on Tofana di Mezzo, Dolomites
On 12/01/2013 Beppe Ballico, Andrea Gamberini and Marco Milanese made what is likely to be the first ascent of the icefall Psyco Killer (IV+, WI7-, D5, 225m) on the Tofana di Mezzo (Dolomites).
Via Valeria, first repeat on Crozzon di Brenta
15/01/2013 - Alpinism
Via Valeria, first repeat on Crozzon di Brenta
On Saturday 12 January 2013 Giorgio Bertagnolli and Cristian Defant made the first repeat of Via Valeria on Crozzon di Brenta, Dolomites, the ice climb established on 6-7 January 2013 by Gianni Canale and Aldo Mazzotti with difficulties up to VI- ice, M6, VI+ rock.
Orient Express on Gran Sasso, the story of the first winter attempt and the strength of a partnership
15/01/2013 - Alpinism
Orient Express on Gran Sasso, the story of the first winter attempt and the strength of a partnership
On 30/12/2012 Andrea Di Donato, Andrea Di Pascasio and Lorenzo Angelozzi attempted the first winter ascent of Orient Express, but were stopped by Angelozzi's massive fall. Fortunately there were no serious consequences. Andrea Di Pascasio recounts the story.
Wolverine and the first WI 11 in the history of ice climbing
10/01/2013 - Alpinism
Wolverine and the first WI 11 in the history of ice climbing
A brief analysis of the new grade WI 11, put forward for the first time in February 2012 by Klemen Premrl and Tim Emmett after having freed the single pitch ice climb Wolverine at the Helmcken Falls (Canada).
New icefall in Val Budria
09/01/2013 - Alpinism
New icefall in Val Budria
On 05/01/2013 Cristian Candiotto and Ezio Lualdi made the probable first ascent of the icefall Illusion (90m, 5/5+) in Val Budria (Italy).
Corrado Pesce and his climbs in Patagonia
09/01/2013 - Alpinism
Corrado Pesce and his climbs in Patagonia
'How could I define the time spent in Patagonia. Expedition? Holiday? Journey? The right term is none of these' The trip report by Corrado Korra Pesce who has just spent a month in Patagonia which resulted in a series of ascents including a fast repeat of Supercanaleta up Fitz Roy...
Hellzapoppin', a journey through the history of climbing Ivo Ferrari
08/01/2013 - Climbing
Hellzapoppin', a journey through the history of climbing Ivo Ferrari
Ivo Ferrari and climbing trip back in time up Hellzapoppin', one of the most beautiful climbs in the Mediterranean, first ascended in 1977 by Gianni Battimelli, Fabrizio Antonioli, Paul Bellotti, Giorgio Mallucci and Cristiano Delisi.
Ötztal, difficult new Austrian icefalls by Auer, Wilhelm and Nössig
07/01/2013 - Alpinism
Ötztal, difficult new Austrian icefalls by Auer, Wilhelm and Nössig
Hansjörg Auer, Heiko Wilhelm and Mathias Nössig have made the first ascent of three difficult new icefalls in the Ötztal, Austria, including Rätselburg (WI7+, 80m).