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Royal Robbins, goodbye to America's legendary climber
15/03/2017 - Climbing
Royal Robbins, goodbye to America's legendary climber
On 14 March 2017 American rock climbing pioneer Royal Robbins passed away. Aged 82, Robbins was one of the best American climbers during the ’60’s and ’70’s, the period known in "Golden Age"" of Yosemite Valley climbing. Robbins was a pioneer and advocate of clean climbing, i.e. without pegs and...
Sébastien Berthe makes second free ascent of Heart Route on El Capitan, Yosemite
03/12/2016 - Climbing
Sébastien Berthe makes second free ascent of Heart Route on El Capitan, Yosemite
Over a 6-day period in October 2016 23-year-old Belgian Sebastien Berthe, climbing together with Simon Castagne, made the second free ascent of Free Heart Route (5.13b V10) on El Capitan.
Piolets d'Or 2016: four ascents honoured
07/04/2016 - Alpinism
Piolets d'Or 2016: four ascents honoured
From 14 - 17 April four climbs will be celebrated during the Piolets d’Or 2016, the international mountaineering award scheduled to take place at la Grave-La Meije in France. The selected ascents are: Talung (Nepal) by Ukrainian alpinists Nikita Balabanov and Mikhail Fomin; Gave Ding (Nepal) by British mountaineers Mick...
El Condor Pasa, Slovaks climb new big wall in Cochamó valley, Chile
05/03/2016 - Alpinism
El Condor Pasa, Slovaks climb new big wall in Cochamó valley, Chile
Jozef Kristoffy, Martin Krasnansky and Vlado Linek have made the first ascent of El Condor Pasa (8b, 700m) on Cerro Trinidad Central in the Cochamo valley in Patagonia, Chile.
Piolets d'Or 2016: Wojciech Kurtyka to receive Piolet d'Or Carrière and the 'big list' of elite alpinism
25/02/2016 - Alpinism
Piolets d'Or 2016: Wojciech Kurtyka to receive Piolet d'Or Carrière and the 'big list' of elite alpinism
52 climbs carried out in 2015 have been included in the "Big list" of the Piolets d'Or, the prestigious mountaineering award that will be celebrated between 14 - 17 April 2016 at La Grave - La Meije in France. During the 24th edition, Polish mountaineer Wojciech Kurtyka will receive the...
Karakoram Link Sar West climbed by Jon Griffith and Andy Houseman
24/02/2016 - Alpinism
Karakoram Link Sar West climbed by Jon Griffith and Andy Houseman
In July 2015 British alpinists Jon Griffith and Andy Houseman made the first ascent Link Sar West, a 6,938m summit in Pakistan’s Karakoram. The two climbed the northwest face via their route Fever Pitch.
Raru valley Himalaya climbs by Anastasija Davidova and Matija Jost - Matic
17/02/2016 - Alpinism
Raru valley Himalaya climbs by Anastasija Davidova and Matija Jost - Matic
Between 20 July and 9 September 2015 the Slovenian alpinists Anastasija Davidova and Matija Jošt - Matic made what are believed to be the first ascents of three previously unclimbed peaks in the India’s Raru valley: Khumchu Ri 6064m, Kun Long Ri 6058m and Ri Pok Te 6210m.
Ortler Trinitas: Riegler brothers complete their South Tyrolean trilogy
11/01/2016 - Alpinism
Ortler Trinitas: Riegler brothers complete their South Tyrolean trilogy
Florian Riegler reports about his ascent of Trinitas (WI4, M5, 1000m), a probable new route up the NW Face of Ortler climbed on 27/12/2015 together with his brother Martin Riegler. With this ascent the two South Tyrolean alpinists have completed the trilogy of new routes that includes the summits of...
Coffee Break - Chogolisa's roof
29/07/2015 - Alpinism
Coffee Break - Chogolisa's roof
Delving into shapes, the history and the perceived mountains. Daniela Zangrando in her Coffee Break interviews Maxime Guitton, in charge of "Soutien à la création" at the Centre national des arts plastiques (CNAP) in Paris.
Rockfall on Half Dome Regular Northwest Face route in Yosemite
07/07/2015 - Climbing
Rockfall on Half Dome Regular northwest face route in Yosemite
Rockfall has affected the Regular northwest face route on Half Dome in Yosemite. While no climbers are reported injured, this classic route is presently unclimbable.
Alaska Mount Lucifer: John Frieh and Doug Shepherd climb Agua Sin Gas
29/06/2015 - Alpinism
Alaska Mount Lucifer: John Frieh and Doug Shepherd climb Agua Sin Gas
In May 2015 John Frieh and Doug Shepherd made the first ascent of "Agua Sin Gas" (III WI4/steep snow) up the North Face of Mount Lucifer in Alaska. The trip report by John Frieh.
Shivling, the perfect attempt by Daniela Teixeira and Paulo Roxo
08/03/2015 - Alpinism
Shivling, the perfect attempt by Daniela Teixeira and Paulo Roxo
The report by Portugese climbers Daniela Teixeira and Paulo Roxo about their autumn 2014 attempt to forge a new route up Shivling in the Indian Himalayas.
Piolet d'Or 2015 and the big list of 58 climbs
20/02/2015 - Alpinism
Piolet d'Or 2015 and the big list of 58 climbs
58 ascents carried out in 2014 have been included in the "Big list" of the Piolets d'Or, the most prestigious mountaineering award that will be celebrated between 9 - 12 April, 2015 at Courmayeur and Chamonix, at the foot of Mont Blanc.
Volcan Aguilera, first ascent in Patagonia by the Uncharted expedition
23/09/2014 - Alpinism
Volcan Aguilera, first ascent in Patagonia by the Uncharted expedition
The Uncharted expedition comprised of Camilo Rada, Natalia Martinez, Ines Dusaillant, Viviana Callahan and Evan Miles has made the first ascent of Volcan Aguilera (2480m) on the South Patagonian Icefield. Furthermore, during the return across the Hielos Continentales the team ascended four other previously unclimbed peaks. The report by Camilo...
Odyssey and Iliad, two new climbs in Alaska's Revelation Mountains
23/05/2014 - Alpinism
Odyssey and Iliad, two new climbs in Alaska's Revelation Mountains
An team of young alpinists comprised of Lise Billon, Pedro Angel Galan Diaz, Jeremy Stagnetto and Jérôme Sullivan have made the first ascents of the ice and mixed routes The Odyssey (M7, 6b, A1, 90°, 1100m) up the unclimbed Pyramid Peak and The Iliad (TD+ 900m) up Mount Boucansaud in...
Ueli Steck and Raphael Slawinski & Ian Welsted win the Piolets d'Or 2014
29/03/2014 - Events
Ueli Steck and Raphael Slawinski & Ian Welsted win the Piolets d'Or 2014
The Piolets d'Or 2014 was assigned this evening in Courmayeur to two ascents: the NW Face of K6 climbed by Raphael Slawinski and Ian Welsted and the South Face of Annapurna climbed solo by Ueli Steck. The South Face of Annapurna ascent carried out by da Stephane Benoist and Yannick...

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