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Christoph Hainz, Tre Cime di Lavaredo man: the evening at Arco
29/05/2017 - Events
Christoph Hainz, Tre Cime di Lavaredo man: the evening at Arco
On Friday 2 June 2017 at 21:00 at Caffé Trentino in Arco an evening talk with Christoph Hainz, for the last two decades one of the leading climbers and mountaineers, not only in the Dolomites. The evening will be hosted by Vinicio Stefanello, editor of PlanetMountain.com
Manolo, climbing and Il Mattino dei Maghi: first repeat in 35 years
19/12/2016 - Climbing
Manolo, climbing and Il Mattino dei Maghi: first repeat in 35 years
On 7 December 2016 Maurizio Manolo Zanolla, belayed by Daniele Lira shortly before his 59th birthday, made the second ascent and first repeat of Il Mattino dei Maghi, the legendary climb first ascended in 1981 by Manolo at the crag Totoga (Pale di San Martino, Dolomites) and, until now, unrepeated.
Eiger North Face / Tom Ballard Titanic interview
13/12/2016 - Alpinism
Eiger North Face / Tom Ballard Titanic interview
Interview with British alpinist Tom Ballard after the first ascent of ‘Titanic' (A3/M5/6b, 2000m), a new climb up the North Face of the Eiger (Switzerland), first ascended together with Marcin Tomaszewski from 29 November to 6 December 2016.
Eiger: Tom Ballard and Marcin Tomaszewski climb new route up North Face
06/12/2016 - Alpinism
Eiger: Tom Ballard and Marcin Tomaszewski climb new route up North Face
Mountaineering: from 29 November to 6 December 2016 Tom Ballard and Marcin Tomaszewski made the first ascent of 'Titanic' (A3/M5/6b, 1800m), a new climb up the North Face of the Eiger (Switzerland).
Mike Kosterlitz awarded Nobel Prize in Physics
10/10/2016 - Alpinism
Mike Kosterlitz awarded Nobel Prize in Physics
Mike Kosterlitz was recently awarded the Nobel Prize in Physics. Apart from his scientific genius, the Scotsman was an expert climber and mountaineer who left his mark in particular in Italy’s Orco valley with his famous Fessura Kosterlitz. By Giovanni Battimelli.
Civetta / New Dolomites climb by Tom Ballard and Marcin Tomaszewski
30/08/2016 - Alpinism
civetta / New Dolomites climb by Tom Ballard and Marcin Tomaszewski
From 24 - 25 August 2016 the alpinists Tom Ballard and Marcin Tomaszewski made the first ascent of ‘Dirty Harry’ (VII, 1375m), a huge new rock climb up the NW Face of civetta, Dolomites.
Jon Griffith and Andy Houseman win the Karl Unterkircher Award 2016
18/08/2016 - Events
Jon Griffith and Andy Houseman win the Karl Unterkircher Award 2016
On 27 July 2016 British mountaineers Jon Griffith and Andy Houseman received the 4th Karl Unterkircher Award for their first ascent of Link Sar West (6.938m - Karakoram). The other two ascents that had been nominated were Marek Raganowicz and Marcin Tomaszewski winter first ascent of Katharsis on Norway’s Troll...
Cima Busazza, Manrico Dell'Agnola and Maurizio Giordani climb new Dolomites route
27/07/2016 - Alpinism
Cima Busazza, Manrico Dell'Agnola and Maurizio Giordani climb new Dolomites route
On 17 and 18 July 2016 Manrico Dell'Agnola and Maurizio Giordani climbed a new route up the immense SW Face of Cima Busazza (civetta group, Dolomites). The 800m climb breaches difficulties up to VII/VII+, includes a short section of A2 aid, and is protected by trad gear and few pegs.
Classic climbs n. 1: Pisciadù NW Arête. By Ivo Ferrari
22/07/2016 - Alpinism
Classic climbs n. 1: Pisciadù NW Arête. By Ivo Ferrari
Ivo Ferrari climbs the North-West Arête, also known as Via W.H. on the West face of the Pisciadù (Sella, Dolomites). This classic outing was first climbed on 09/05/1971 by Heini Holzer and Sieglinde Walzl.
Civetta, Dolomites: the Via degli studenti video
06/04/2016 - Alpinism
civetta, Dolomites: the Via degli studenti video
The video documenting the first ascent of Via degli studenti, the rock climb established between 2014 and 2015 up the NW Face of civetta in the Dolomites by Martin Dejori, Marta Mozzati, Titus Prinoth, Giorgio Travaglia and Alex Walpoth.
Piolets d'Or 2016: Wojciech Kurtyka to receive Piolet d'Or Carrière and the 'big list' of elite alpinism
25/02/2016 - Alpinism
Piolets d'Or 2016: Wojciech Kurtyka to receive Piolet d'Or Carrière and the 'big list' of elite alpinism
52 climbs carried out in 2015 have been included in the "Big list" of the Piolets d'Or, the prestigious mountaineering award that will be celebrated between 14 - 17 April 2016 at La Grave - La Meije in France. During the 24th edition, Polish mountaineer Wojciech Kurtyka will receive the...
La storia infinita on Agner, first repeat and winter ascent in the Dolomites by Martin Dejori and Titus Prinoth
18/01/2016 - Alpinism
La storia infinita on Agner, first repeat and winter ascent in the Dolomites by Martin Dejori and Titus Prinoth
From 29 to 30 December 2015 the alpinists Martin Dejori and Titus Prinoth carried out the first repeat (and first winter ascent) of La storia infinita, the route established in 1990 up the NE Face of Mt. Agner (Dolomites) by the Czech brothers Miroslav Coubal and Michal Coubal.
Rondò Veneziano on Torre Venezia, too beautiful to resist
07/01/2016 - Alpinism
Rondò Veneziano on Torre Venezia, too beautiful to resist
On 23 December 2015 Nicola Tondini and Emanuele Pellizzari repeated Rondò veneziano (470m, IX), the route first climbed by Christoph Hainz and Kurt Astner up the South Face of Torre Venezia (civetta, Dolomites). The report by Nicola Tondini of what is also the first winter ascent of this magnificent rock...
Monte Cimo: Nicola Tondini climbs three new 8a multi-pitches
10/11/2015 - Climbing
Monte Cimo: Nicola Tondini climbs three new 8a multi-pitches
Nicola Tondini introduces three multi-pitch rock climbs located on Monte Cimo (Brentino, Val d’Adige, Italy) they are united, apart from their difficulty, by their extraordinary beauty: Tra Nuvole e Sogni and The Edge on Sass Mesdì, and Destini Incrociati on Castel Presina.
Civetta Dolomites: new rock climb Via degli studenti up the NW Face
17/08/2015 - Alpinism
civetta Dolomites: new rock climb Via degli studenti up the NW Face
In August 2015 Martin Dejori, Marta Mozzati, Titus Prinoth, Giorgio Travaglia and Alex Walpoth completed Via degli studenti, an important new rock climb up the legendary NW Face of civetta in the Dolomites.
For Ilio De Biasio
08/05/2014 - Alpinism
For Ilio De Biasio
Ilio De Biasio, one of the strongest climbers and mountaineers in the Dolomites, died aged 59 on 9 April 2014 during a ski mountaineering trip to Monte Pavione, Alpi Feltrine, Dolomites. The thoughts by Toni Zuech.