104 News found
16/11/2022 - Alpinism
The Piolets d'Or 2022 list of significant ascents The organisers of the Piolet d’Or mountaineering award have published the complete list of most significant and innovative climbs carried out in 2021.The prize giving ceremony will be celebrated from 18 to 20 November 2022 at Briançon in France.
29/09/2022 - Alpinism
Janluca Kostner completes first solo ascent of Chimera Verticale on civetta, Dolomites The report by 24-year-old mountain guide Janluca Kostner from Ortisei (Val Gardena, Italy) who between 13 and 14 September 2022 made the first rope-solo ascent of Chimera Verticale on Mt. civetta (Dolomites). Graded IX, the route on the North West Face of Punta civetta was established between 2007 and 2008...
30/05/2022 - Alpinism
Remembering Simone Badier, the great French alpinist Claude Gardien, historic editor-in-chief of the French magazine Vertical, remembers Simone Badier who passed away on 18 March 2022. Born in 1936 and as talented as she was discreet, she was one of the leading figures in women's climbing and mountaineering.
19/08/2021 - Alpinism
Dolomites civetta coup: Léo Billon, Enzo Oddo climb Colonne d’Ercole in a day Léo Billon and Enzo Oddo have climbed Colonne d’Ercole (1200m, IX) on Mount civetta in the Dolomites onsight and in a single day. A few days earlier the French mountaineers had teamed up with Silvia Loreggian, climbing Specchio di Sara with the starting variant Coitus Interruptus and the Larcher-Vigiani (8a...
08/03/2021 - Alpinism
Dolomites Dulcis in fundo: first winter ascent on civetta by Nicola Tondini, Lorenzo D'Addario On 03/03/2021 on civetta, Dolomites, the two Italian mountain guides Nicola Tondini and Lorenzo D’Addario made the first winter ascent of Dulcis in fundo.
04/03/2021 - Alpinism
civetta Dolomites double: first winter ascents of Chimera Verticale and W Mexico Cabrones Two huge climbs were repeated on the northwest face of civetta in the Dolomites, Italy: Chimera Verticale by Titus Prinoth and Alex Walpoth, and W Mexico Cabrones by Alessandro Baù, Thomas Gianola and Giovanni Zaccaria. This is the first time both routes have been climbed in winter.
05/09/2020 - Environment
Cinque Torri flash mob in protest against new infrastructure in the Dolomites The press release concerning a 'mountaineering' flash mob that took place on 03/40/2020 on the Cinque Torri (Cortina, Dolomites) in protest against new ski lifts and constructions in the Dolomites.
08/07/2020 - Alpinism
Piolets d'Or 2020: the big list
of significant ascents The organisers of the Piolet d’Or mountaineering award have published the complete list of most significant and innovative climbs carried out in 2019. From this they will select the recipients of the Piolets d'Or award that will be celebrated during the Ladek Mountain Festival in Poland, from 11 to 22...
08/05/2020 - Interviews
Alessandro Zeni, the 9b Saint Loup Cryptography interview Interview with Alessandro Zeni who on 11/01/2020 at Saint Loup in Switzerland made the first ascent of Cryptography, a combination of the routes Bain de Sang and Bimbaluna. With its suggested grade of 9b it checks in as one of the most difficult slabs in the world.
06/05/2020 - Alpinism
Rockfall on Dolomites Torre Venezia damages Via Tissi and other classic civetta climbs Serious rockfall took place on the south face of Torre Venezia (civetta, Dolomites) recently, affecting the historic rock climbs Via Tissi, Gran diedro and Gran Diedro – Diretta.
06/04/2020 - Alpinism
Donnafugata on Torre Trieste, the film by Manrico dell'Agnola now online Donnafugata is a huge multi-pitch rock climb established in 2004 by Christoph Hainz with Roger Schäli on the south face of the Torre Trieste. 750 meters of demanding and beautiful climbing up one of the symbols of legendary Mt. civetta in the Dolomites. Manrico dell'Agnola recounts its story in a...
05/02/2020 - Alpinism
Madre Tierra on Rocchetta Alta di Bosconero in Zoldo Dolomites by Santiago Padrós, Diego Toigo Spanish mountain guide Santiago Padrós reports about a big new winter climb up Rocchetta Alta di Bosconero (2412m) in the Zoldo Dolomites, established on 30/01/2020 with Diego Toigo. The mixed outing is called Madre Tierra and was completed after a failed first attempt with Giovanni Andriano and Ruggero Arena.
20/11/2019 - Alpinism
Max Bonniot and Pierre Labbre perish on Aiguille du Plan in Mt Blanc massif France’s Max Bonniot and Pierre Labbre have perished on Aiguille du Plan in the Mont Blanc massif. The two were considered among the most talented mountaineers of their generation.
01/11/2019 - Alpinism
New civetta Dolomites climb by Davide Cassol, Luca Vallata Last summer Belluno alpinists Luca Vallata and Davide Cassol made the first ascent Capitani di Ventura, a big new multi-pitch climb that reaches the summit of Punta civetta in the Dolomites. Established after four attempts, it breaches difficulties up to VIII-/A1 and tackles a line between Chimera Verticale and the...
01/10/2019 - Alpinism
New Tre Cime di Lavaredo Dolomites rock climb by Alessandro Baù, Claudio Migliorini, Nicola Tondini Alessandro Baù, Claudio Migliorini and Nicola Tondini have made the first ascent of big new multi-pitch rock climb up Cima Ovest di Lavaredo, Tre Cime di Lavaredo, Dolomites.
16/09/2019 - Alpinism
Uncertain Future scoped on Dolomites Spiz de la Lastia by Lorenzo Corso, Diego Toigo, Luca Vallata On Spiz de le Lastia in the Agner group, Dolomites, Lorenzo Corso, Diego Toigo, Luca Vallata have made the first ascent of Futuro Incerto. Diego Toigo reports about the climb, established with one bivouac from 18 to 19 August 2019.
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