Two big new new rock climbs on Torre Trieste, Civetta, Dolomites
On the south face of Torre Trieste on Mount Civetta (Dolomites, Italy) two new rock climbs have been established, simultaneously and completely by chance, by two very strong teams comprised of Alessandro Baù, Alessandro Beber and Nicola Tondini, and of Simon Gietl, Vittorio Messini and Matthias Wurzer
After years of hibernation, this autumn the imposing Torre Trieste on Mount Civetta in the Italian Dolomites was the object of desire of not one, but two excellent parties who found themselves vying for two parrallel but completely independent routes on the huge limestone tower that dominates Val Corpassa.
The two climbs were established on the section of the south face already explored by the Carlesso-Sandri, first ascended in 25 hours from 7-8 August 1934 by Raffaele Carlesso and Bortolo Sandri, and the Cassin-Ratti, established in 27 hours by Riccardo Cassin and Vittorio Ratti between 15 and 17 August 1935, and the Polish route, established by a team led by Jerzy Kukuczka between 23 and 26 July 1972.
The two teams, it goes without saying, are among the most prolific: on the one side Alessandro Baù, Alessandro Beber and Nicola Tondini, and on the other Simon Gietl, Vittorio Messini and Matthias Wurzer.
Between September and November, at times on precisely the same days, they established their lines that cross each other the first ledge of the south face. Baù, Beber and Tondini established a 28-pitch outing, while the Gietl, Messini and Wurzer climb starts from the ledge where the aforementioned Cassin and Carlesso start, resulting in a 20-pitch endeavour. Both routes were climbed all the way to the summit, just before the onset of bitingly cold temperatures, hence the first free ascents are still outstanding.
While awaiting the details of these important new additions to Civetta, it's worth underlining how after an initial moment of surprise and incredulity at finding themselves "contending" precisely the same face at precisely the same time, the two teams managed to work well together and encouraged each other to complete the lines. Chapeau
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