Donnafugata Torre Trieste, first free ascent by Mauro Bubu Bole
On 04/07/2007 Mauro 'Bubu' Bole and Gabriele Gorobey carried out the first free ascent of Donnafugata (750m; max 8a), first ascended by Christoph Hainz and Roger Schäli in 2004 on the S Face of Torre Trieste, Civetta, Dolomites.
Bubu Bole is up to his old tricks. At the start of August the climber from Trieste made the first free ascent of Donnafugata, the 750m route first ascended by none other than Christoph Hainz and Roger SchÃ¤li in summer 2004 up the massive vertical bastion on the S Face of Torre Trieste.
Bubu needed five days to free this "fantastic" route which had been first ascended with the use of bolts because, as Hainz had declared, it would have been simply impossible without. Bubu worked the route for four days at the start of July with Ines Papert from Germany but, since she was otherwise engaged, climbed the route on 4 August together with Gabriele Gorobey in a 13 and a half hour push.
Bubu, who led all pitches free straight off, described the route as follows: "Donnafugata is a great line up an even face which is even greater than it seems. The route is well protected with bolts and pegs, the belays are safe and perfect for a quick retreat (a sign of maturity!). Just a few camming devices are needed for the first 4 pitches, as is that sensibility to climb up friable rock which comes about after years of experience. Powerful climbers beware! And you also need a capable partner (like I had) and stamina and motivation to climb it all in one day! Ah, I forgot... really tight climbing shoes for the crux 15th pitch."
Torre Trieste south Face, Civetta Dolomites
First ascent: Christoph Hainz and Roger SchÃ¤li, summer 2004
First free ascent: Mauro “Bubu” Bole and Gabriele Gorobey on 4/07/2007 – Bole worked the route with Ines Papert for 4 days prior to the successful redpoint ascent.
Grade: 7a/A2 – free: max 8a
The pitches: 1st pitch: 4a, 50m; 2nd pitch: 5a, 50m; 3rd pitch: 5a, 50m; 4th pitch: 5a, 50m; 5th pitch: 6b, 25m; 6th pitch: 6c, 45m; 7th pitch: 6b+, 25m; 8th pitch: 7b+, 30m; 9th pitch: 6b, 25m; 10th pitch: 7a, 40m; 11th pitch: 6a, 30m; 12th pitch: 6b, 30m; 13th pitch: 7b, 30m; 14th pitch: 6b+, 45m; 15th pitch: 8a, 45m; 16th pitch: 6c, 50m; 17th pitch: 7a, 25m; 18th pitch: 7b, 25m; 19th pitch: 6a, 40m; 20th pitch: 5a, 50m; 21st pitch: 6a, 40m; 22nd pitch: 6a, 40m; 23rd pitch: 5a, 50m;
Gear: some camming devices for the first 4 pitchs, full set of quickdraws (the route is protected by pegs and bolts)
Descent: Abseil down the normal route