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Monte Santu, Baunei, Sardinia. Two new routes by Larcher & Oviglia and Giupponi & Sartori
03/06/2013 - Climbing
Monte Santu, Baunei, Sardinia. Two new routes by Larcher & Oviglia and Giupponi & Sartori
Two new 8a multi-pitch climbs on Monte Santu, Baunei, one of the last virgin crags in Sardinia: Vertigine Blu" (275m, 8a max, 7a+ obl.) established by Luca Giupponi and Nicola Sartori and "Blu Oltremare" (315m, 8a max, 7b obl.) established...
Ghost Face, new Hubshorn climb by Zanoli, Pagnoncelli, Gallian
30/05/2013 - Alpinism
Ghost Face, new Hubshorn climb by Zanoli, Pagnoncelli, Gallian
On 26 May 2013, Paolo Zanoli, Giovanni Pagnoncelli and Davide Gallian made the first ascent of Ghost Face (TD+, 850m length, 550m height) up the North East Face of Hubshorn (3192m, Pennine Alps). The peak is located on the border...
Everest 60 years between legend and business
29/05/2013 - Alpinism
Everest 60 years between legend and business
On May 29, 60 years ago Tenzing Norgay and Edmund Hillary stood on top of the world for the first time ever. Since then Everest has continued to be a symbol, hovering somewhere between a legend and "consumerism". By Erminio...
Raptor: Sardinia's Right Wall climbed by Maurizio Oviglia
24/05/2013 - Climbing
Raptor: Sardinia's Right Wall climbed by Maurizio Oviglia
Maurizio Oviglia talks about the first ascent of Raptor at Jurassic Park in Sardinia. A 25m high 7b trad climb reminiscent of the famous Right Wall, first climbed by Pete Livesey on Dinas Cromlech in Wales.
Melloblocco 10, the book
24/05/2013 - Book-press
Melloblocco 10, the book
Photos, texts, stories and meetings of the first 10 years of Melloblocco: the book that retraces the history of the international bouldering festival which, ever since 2004, has taken place in Italy's Val Masino Val di Mello.
Palinuro, climbing above the sea and the climBrave Festival
22/05/2013 - Events
Palinuro, climbing above the sea and the climBrave Festival
Giancarlo Maritano talks about the climbing and climBrave Festival which took place last April on the beautiful beach called Molpa di Palinuro in Campania, Southern Italy.
Nuptse, Everest and Lhotse by Kenton Cool and Dorje Gylgen Sherpa
21/05/2013 - Alpinism
Nuptse, Everest and Lhotse by Kenton Cool and Dorje Gylgen Sherpa
Astounding triple in the Himalaya for Kenton Cool and Dorje Gylgen Sherpa: between 18 - 20 May they climbed Nuptse, Everest and Lhotse in rapid succession.
Azazar, new climb on Tadrarate (Morocco) by Aufdenblatten, Papert and Steurer
07/05/2013 - Climbing
Azazar, new climb on Tadrarate (Morocco) by Aufdenblatten, Papert and Steurer
In April 2013 Ines Papert, Lisi Steurer and Patrik Aufdenblatten made the first ascent of Azazar (400m, 8a) up the Tadrarate rock face in the Taghia Gorge, Morocco.
Climbing in Sardinia and a bit of history: Even heroes feel fear... 30 years later
06/05/2013 - Climbing
Climbing in Sardinia and a bit of history: Even heroes feel fear... 30 years later
30 years after the first ascent, Maurizio Oviglia returns to "Anche gli eroi hanno paura - Even heroes feel fear" the route first ascended by Alessandro Cattaneo, Beppe Domenichelli, Mondo Liggi, Cecilia Marchi and Bruno Poddesuin in Sardinia's Sette Fratelli...
Mezzalama Trophy, 2013, a perfect day
06/05/2013 - Competitions
Mezzalama Trophy, 2013, a perfect day
On Saturday 4 May the XIX Mezzalama Trophy was won by the Italians Manfred Reichegger, Damiano Lenzi and Matteo Eydallin. The women's competition was won by the Italians Laura Besseghini, Raffaella Rossi and Elena Nicolini. Lorenzo Scandroglio provides the report,...
Melloblocco 2013: day six, 1st of May, sun, clouds and climbing
01/05/2013 - Climbing
Melloblocco 2013: day six, 1st of May, sun, clouds and climbing
01/05/2013. Plenty of new arrivals, rock climbing and boulders sent by everyone in Val Masino. The fun even included baby climbing, a boulder contest with the Lombardy Mountain Guides and Melloclip, the competition for the best photos and videos taken...
Melloblocco 2013 - day one: Chinese lanterns fill the sky
27/04/2013 - Climbing
Melloblocco 2013 - day one: Chinese lanterns fill the sky
Saturday 27/04/2013. Last night marked the start of the 10th Melloblocco, the festival that will transform Val di Mello - Val Masino into the world's capital for bouldering and climbing until Sunday 5 May. At the Filorera Centre the program...
Melloblocco Backstage, an exhibition documenting the birth of the boulder problems
23/04/2013 - Climbing
Melloblocco Backstage, an exhibition documenting the birth of the boulder problems
From Friday 27 April to 31 May an exhibition will be held at Bar Monica at San Martino Valmasino with the photos taken by Laura Benaglia, Francesco Piovesan and Mirko Masè documenting how the boulder problems have been created for...
Melloblocco 2013, more than just bouldering with the Lombardy Mountain Guides
22/04/2013 - Events
Melloblocco 2013, more than just bouldering with the Lombardy Mountain Guides
During Melloblocco 2013 the Lombardy Mountain Guides offers four free "MelloClinics" dedicated to single and multi-pitch rock climbing in Val di Mello to raise awareness about what the valley has to offer apart from its endless bouldering opportunities. In addition...
Safety Information: Petzl ZIGZAG mechanical prusik
17/04/2013 - Gear
Safety Information: Petzl ZIGZAG mechanical prusik
The French company Petzl has issued the following press release concerning the mechanical prusik ZIGZAG for arborists.
Piz Lavarella West Face, first ski descent in the Dolomites by Francesco Tremolada and Andrea Oberbacher
Piz Lavarella West Face, first ski descent in the Dolomites by Francesco Tremolada and Andrea Oberbacher
On 10/04/2013 Francesco Tremolada and Andrea Oberbacher made the first ski descent of the Piz Lavarella West Face (Conturines - Lavarella), Alta Badia, Dolomites. The report by Francesco Tremolada.

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