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Ueli Steck #82Summits interview after the 82 4,000 meter peaks in the Alps
14/10/2015 - Interviews
Ueli Steck #82Summits interview after the 82 4,000 meter peaks in the Alps
Interview with Swiss alpinist Ueli Steck after climbing the 82 alpine four-thousanders, carried out in 62 days last summer from 11/06/2015 to 11/08/2015. The enchainment had previously been carried out in the same self-propelled style by Franco Nicolini and Diego Giovannini in 60 giorni in 2008. In 2007, Miha Valic...
Big new rock climb on Monte Fibbion in the Brenta Dolomites
08/10/2015 - Climbing
Big new rock climb on Monte Fibbion in the Brenta Dolomites
Rolando Larcher talks about the first ascent of 50 anni son volati, 25 regalati! (215m, 8a+ max, 7b obl.), a new rock climb established to celebrate his first 50 years together with Herman Zanetti, Luca Giupponi and Alessandro Larcher up the East Face Monte Fibbion (Campa Group, Brenta Dolomites).
Marc-André Leclerc free solo of the Tomahawk - Excocet routes in Patagonia
05/10/2015 - Alpinism
Marc-André Leclerc free solo of the Tomahawk - Excocet routes in Patagonia
Canadian alpinist Marc-Andre Leclerc has carried out a fast solo ascent of the routes Tomahawk and Excocet on Aguja Standhardt in Patagonia.
King of the Bongo on Qualido in Val di Mello climbed by Marazzi, de Zaiacomo and Schiera
02/10/2015 - Climbing
King of the Bongo on Qualido in Val di Mello climbed by Marazzi, de Zaiacomo and Schiera
In autumn 2014 Paolo Marazzi, Matteo de Zaiacomo and Luca Schiera completed the first ascent of King of the Bongo, a new climb that shares the first two pitches with Passi di Bimbo to then explore a 700m, independent, difficult and at times dangerous line up the Qualido Face in...
Pelmo North Face winter ascent. A climbing story for commanders only
29/09/2015 - Alpinism
Pelmo North Face winter ascent. A climbing story for commanders only
Ivo Ferrari retraces the winter repeat of the Pelmo North Face, carried out in the Dolomites by Soro Dorotei, Renato Panciera and Giuliano De Marchi. One of the most memorable stories of alpinism and winter mountaineering
CAI don't cry, new rock climb up Sass de Mura, Dolomites
29/09/2015 - Climbing
CAI don't cry, new rock climb up Sass de Mura, Dolomites
The report by Davide Gaeta and Andrea Salvadori about the first ascent of CAI don’t cry (VIII+, R3, 300m) up the North Face of Sass de Mura, Cimonega group, Belluno Dolomites.
Hans Florine climbs The Nose on El Capitan 100 times
28/09/2015 - Interviews
Hans Florine climbs The Nose on El Capitan 100 times
Interview with American rock climber Hans Florine who a fortnight ago made his 100th ascent of The Nose, the famous rock climb up El Capitan in Yosemite, USA.
Odyssee, the hardest route on the Eiger North Face by Roger Schaeli, Robert Jasper and Simon Gietl
25/09/2015 - Climbing
Odyssee, the hardest route on the Eiger North Face by Roger Schaeli, Robert Jasper and Simon Gietl
An international trio comprised of Roger Schäli (Switzerland), Robert Jasper (Germany) and Simon Gietl (Italy) have established Odyssee (8a+, 1400m), a difficult and serious new rock climb up the North Face of the Eiger in Switzerland.
La Terrazza, climbing at Pietrabissara in Liguria
25/09/2015 - Climbing
La Terrazza, climbing at Pietrabissara in Liguria
Gian Paolo Rivara introduces La Terrazza, the beautiful little crag at Villa, Liguria, Italy. 17 sport climbs from 6a - 8a+ hosted in this disused conglomerate quarry at Pietrabissara.
Simon Gietl and Roger Schäli climb new route on La Esfinge in Peru
23/09/2015 - Alpinism
Simon Gietl and Roger Schäli climb new route on La Esfinge in Peru
Last July Simon Gietl and Roger Schäli made the first ascent of Chappie (7b+, 600m), a new multi-pitch rock climb up the granite giant La Esfinge in Peru.
Father's day
16/09/2015 - Alpinism
Father's day
Ivo Ferrari and the "responsibility" of being a father who guides his son up a rock climb.
New trad climbs in Ala Daglar, Turkey
15/09/2015 - Alpinism
New trad climbs in Ala Daglar, Turkey
Maurizio Oviglia and Recep Ince recommend some new trad climbs in Pınarbaşı Canyon (Ala Daglar, Turkey).
Big Bilibino rock climbs in Siberia
14/09/2015 - Climbing
Big Bilibino rock climbs in Siberia
In July 2015 Hansjörg Auer, Jacopo Larcher, Eneko Pou, Iker Pou and Siebe Vanhee climbed 8 new routes up the granite big walls close to Bilibino in Russia.
French belays on sea cliffs, lower off advice for sport climbing
10/09/2015 - Climbing
French belays on sea cliffs, lower off advice for sport climbing
Maurizio Oviglia, Italian Mountaineering Club Instructor, discusses a few basic rules that should be observed before lowering off a “French belay", consisting of two bolts and no abseil chain.
Hansjörg Auer free solos Mephisto on Sass de la Crusc in the Dolomites
09/09/2015 - Climbing
Hansjörg Auer free solos Mephisto on Sass de la Crusc in the Dolomites
On 26 August 2015 the Austrian alpinist Hansjörg Auer made a free solo climb of Mephisto, the route established in 1979 by Reinhard Schiestl and Luggi Rieser on Sass de Crusc in the Dolomites
British climbers free Disco 2000 on Blåmman in Norway
08/09/2015 - Environment
British climbers free Disco 2000 on Blåmman in Norway
Dave MacLeod, Calum Muskett and Jacob Cook have made the first free ascent of Disco 2000 (8a+) on Blamman, island of Kvaløya in Norway.