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Matterhorn South Face, new route by Marco and Hervé Barmasse
30/03/2010 - Alpinism
Matterhorn South Face, new route by Marco and Hervé Barmasse
On 13 March 2010 Marco and Hervé Barmasse established a new route up the South Face of the Matterhorn. Their 1220m line solves one of the "problems" up the massive "Becca" face, attempted by numerous climbers in the past. The exclusive interview with Hervé Barmasse.
Prinzip Hoffnung, second ascent by Alex Luger
29/03/2010 - Climbing
Prinzip Hoffnung, second ascent by Alex Luger
On 06/12/2009 Alex Luger from Austria carried out the first repeat of Prinzip Hoffnung, the trad route established by Beat Kammerlander at the Bürser Platte in Austria.
Civetta North West Face: first winter ascent of Captain Skyhook by Tondini and Baù
23/03/2010 - Alpinism
Civetta North West Face: first winter ascent of Captain Skyhook by Tondini and Baù
On 19 March 2010 Alessandro Baù and Nicola Tondini carried out the first winter ascent and third ascent overall of Captain Skyhook (500m + 380m pedestal, 7b+) on the Northwest Face of the Civetta, Dolomites.
Silvio Reffo repeats Drumtime at Fonzaso
18/03/2010 - Climbing
Silvio Reffo repeats Drumtime at Fonzaso
On 07/03/2009 Silvio Reffo from Vicenza carried out a rare repeat of Drumtime, the super route at Fonzaso.
Ice climbing in Scotland – an Ines Papert perspective
09/03/2010 - Alpinism
Ice climbing in Scotland – an Ines Papert perspective
German climber Ines Papert provides her report and views of British winter climbing after her first ice climbing trip to Scotland.
Fiducia al sentiero, new route for Baù and Della Bordella in Mexico
03/03/2010 - Climbing
Fiducia al sentiero, new route for Baù and Della Bordella in Mexico
In January 2010 the Italians Alessandro Baù and Matteo Della Bordella carried out the first ascent of 'Fiducia al sentiero' (500m, 5.12c/7b+ max – 5.11d/7a obl.) on the South Face of Tatewari in the La Huasteca Natural Park, Monterrey, Mexico.
Gorillas im Nebel, new mixed route in the Zillertal, Austria
18/02/2010 - Alpinism
Gorillas im Nebel, new mixed route in the Zillertal, Austria
On 15 February Albert Leichtfried and Benedikt Purner carried out the first free ascent of "Gorillas im Nebel" (120m, M10/WI6) in the Zillertal, Austria.
Never Ever Say Never, new Scafell Buttress winter climb by Dave Birkett
04/02/2010 - Alpinism
Never Ever Say Never, new Scafell Buttress winter climb by Dave Birkett
Last weekend Dave Birkett climbed what is being hailed as one of the most important new winter routes in Britain's Lake District for the last quarter of a century, Never Ever Say Never VIII 8 or E7 5c on Scafell's East Buttress.
Centercourt WI7+, new extreme ice climb in Austria's Gasteinertal by Leichtfried and Purner
12/01/2010 - Alpinism
Centercourt WI7+, new extreme ice climb in Austria's Gasteinertal by Leichtfried and Purner
On 07/01/2010 Albert Leichtfried and Benedikt Purner made the first ascent of the 300m "Centercourt" in the Gasteinertal. Graded WI7+, this is the hardest pure iceline in Austria and one of the hardest in the world.
Climbing stories in Val San Nicolò, Italy
24/12/2009 - Climbing
Climbing stories in Val San Nicolò, Italy
One day Heinz opened two new routes in Valle San Nicolò (Val di Fassa, Dolomites) and 22 years later he gave the route to Mario, who freed them. This is the story of "Alice e l'imperatore" and "Basic Instinct", told by Heinz Mariacher and Mario Prinoth.
Targassonne bouldering in France
01/12/2009 - Climbing
Targassonne bouldering in France
One of the most important bouldering areas in Europe is located close to the small village of Targassonne in the French Pyrenees. Electra Brunialti and Enea Colnago introduce these beautiful granite boulders.
Jasemba SSE Face success for Simon & Samuel Anthamatten and Michi Lerjen
24/11/2009 - Alpinism
Jasemba SSE Face success for Simon & Samuel Anthamatten and Michi Lerjen
Interview with Samuel Anthamatten after the first ascent of the South-South-East Face of Jasemba, Nepal via their Hook or Crook (VI, 1550m, 90°, M5.
Parc National des Calanques - climbing at risk in the future French park?
09/11/2009 - Environment
Parc National des Calanques - climbing at risk in the future French park?
Climbing and other low-impact sports such as canoing and hiking may be at risk at the planned Calanques National Park in France. A group called "Association des Calanques et des Hommes" is asking for climbers to sign their petition online in order to participate in roundtable discussions for the management...
Verdon Gorge rock climbing in France
06/11/2009 - Climbing
Verdon Gorge rock climbing in France
A selection of rock climbs in the fantastic Verdon Gorge, France, an area which witnessed the entire evolution of sport climbing.
The Roaches, rock climbing in England
23/10/2009 - Climbing
The Roaches, rock climbing in England
For many the atmospheric Roaches is simply the best gritstone crag in England.
Jenny Lavarda & Marco Ronchi and their ascents of Solo per vecchi guerrieri
16/10/2009 - Climbing
Jenny Lavarda & Marco Ronchi and their ascents of Solo per vecchi guerrieri
Interview with Jenny Lavarda after the first free ascent of "Solo per vecchi guerrieri" (150m, 8c+/9a, Vette Feltrine, Dolomites), first ascended by Manolo and repeated by Mario Prinoth and Riccardo Scarian. She was accompanied by Marco Ronchi who also managed to redpoint the route that day.

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