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K2: Nepalese mountaineers claim historic first winter ascent
16/01/2021 - Alpinism
K2: Nepalese mountaineers claim historic first winter ascent
Today, Saturday 16 January 2021 at 16:58 local time, a team of 10 Nepalese mountaineers completed the highly coveted first winter ascent of K2, the second highest mountain in the world and the last 8000er to be climbed in the coldest season. News of the successful summit was provided by...
K2 in winter, decisive phase begins in earnest
15/01/2021 - Alpinism
K2 in winter, decisive phase begins in earnest
The attempt to climb K2 in winter is entering the decisive moments, with camp 4 installed at 7800 meters by the various Sherpa teams led by Nirmal Purja, Mingma Gyalje Sherpa and Seven Summit Treks.
Etienne Bernard, goodbye to the young alpinist from Val di Fassa, Dolomites
14/01/2021 - Alpinism
Etienne Bernard, goodbye to the young alpinist from Val di Fassa, Dolomites
Etienne Bernard, the 27-year-old ski instructor, mountain guide and mountaineer from Val di Fassa, perished in an avalanche yesterday on Mount Pordoi (Dolomites, Italy).
K2 in winter without supplementary oxygen - possible or impossible?
14/01/2021 - Alpinism
K2 in winter without supplementary oxygen - possible or impossible?
German journalist Stefan Nestler examines the physiological difficulties associated with climbing K2 in winter without supplemental oxygen. Originally published on his website, Nestler has kindly allowed his text to be republished on planetmountain.com.
Space Force created in Val Bavona by Alexandra Schweikart and Christopher Igel
12/01/2021 - Climbing
Space Force created in Val Bavona by Alexandra Schweikart and Christopher Igel
German climbers Alexandra Schweikart and Christopher Igel have established Space Force (8a+/230m) a new multi-pitch climb in Valle Bavona, Ticino, Switzerland.
Luza Peak in Nepal first ascent by young Sherpa team
12/01/2021 - Alpinism
Luza Peak in Nepal first ascent by young Sherpa team
The 5726m high pyramidal Luza Peak in the Khumbu region of the Nepal was climbed for the first time at the end of 2020 by a young trio of Sherpa comprised of Pemba Sharwa Sherpa, Urken Sherpa and Lhakpa Gyaljen Sherpa. Pemba Sherpa reports about the ascent and gives interesting...
Stefano Ghisolfi establishes Erebor, at 9b/+ the hardest climb in Italy
11/01/2021 - Climbing
Stefano Ghisolfi establishes Erebor, at 9b/+ the hardest climb in Italy
Stefano Ghisolfi has made the first ascent of Erebor at Eremo di San Paolo close to Arco. Graded 9b/+, this is currently the most difficult sport climb in Italy.
K2 winter / High winds destroy Camp 2
11/01/2021 - Alpinism
K2 winter / High winds destroy camp 2
The storms that hit K2 last week have wrecked camp 2, destroying all equipment belonging to the expedition led by Nirmal Purja. The 37-year-old Nepalese mountaineer has already stated he will not give up and simply postpone his attempt to climb the last remaining eight-thousander that has never been climbed...
Farewell to George Whitmore, pioneer of The Nose on El Capitan
05/01/2021 - Climbing
Farewell to George Whitmore, pioneer of The Nose on El Capitan
American rock climber George Whitmore has died at the age of 89. Together with Wayne Merry and Warren Harding he made the first ascent of The Nose on El Capitan in Yosemite in 1958.
Arcadia, the new crag at Leonidio in Greece
04/01/2021 - Climbing
Arcadia, the new crag at Leonidio in Greece
Aris Theodoropoulos introduces Arcadia, a brilliant new crag close to Leonidio in Greece.
Phoenix added to Hochbrunner Schneid in the Dolomites by Simon Gietl, Andrea Oberbacher
02/01/2021 - Alpinism
Phoenix added to Hochbrunner Schneid in the Dolomites by Simon Gietl, Andrea Oberbacher
Simon Gietl and Andrea Oberbacher have made the first ascent of Phoenix, a difficult mixed climb on Hochbrunner Schneid in the Italian Dolomites.
K2 Winter, Nirmal Purja and Mingma Gyalje Sherpa join forces at altitude
31/12/2020 - Alpinism
K2 Winter, Nirmal Purja and Mingma Gyalje Sherpa join forces at altitude
K2 winter update: diverse teams of mountaineers are attempting the first winter ascent of K2, the only 8000er never climbed before in the coldest season. The Nepalese teams led by Nirmal Purja and Mingma Gyalje Sherpa joined forces at altitude and have fixed ropes almost to camp 3.
Cédric Lachat repeats Super Crackinette 9a+ at Saint Léger
31/12/2020 - Climbing
Cédric Lachat repeats Super Crackinette 9a+ at Saint Léger
Switzerland’s Cédric Lachat has climbed his seventh 9a+, Super-Crackinette at Saint Léger du Ventoux in France.
New bold Scottish winter climb on Church Door Buttress by Greg Boswell, Hamish Frost, Graham McGrath
30/12/2020 - Alpinism
New bold Scottish winter climb on Church Door Buttress by Greg Boswell, Hamish Frost, Graham McGrath
Climbing with Hamish Frost and Graham McGrath, Greg Boswell has established False Penance, another bold new winter climb to Church Door Buttress on Bidean nam Bian close to Glen Coe in Scotland.
Alex Megos at Cresciano sends Dreamtime, Story of Two Worlds, The Dagger
30/12/2020 - Climbing
Alex Megos at Cresciano sends Dreamtime, Story of Two Worlds, The Dagger
Watch the video of German climber Alexander Megos sending the 8C boulder problems Dreamtime and The Story of Two Worlds at Cresciano in Switzerland.
Titanium climbing bolts appeal by Maurizio Oviglia for Sardinia's seaside crags
28/12/2020 - Climbing
Titanium climbing bolts appeal by Maurizio Oviglia for Sardinia's seaside crags
Italian climber and new router Maurizio Oviglia once again focuses on the safety of climbing bolts and anchors on sport climbs in seaside environments and has launched a campaign to raise funds in order to re-bolt some marine crags in Sardinia with titanium bolts.

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