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Action Directe, Wolfgang Güllich's 25-year-old Frankenjura masterpiece
14/09/2016 - Climbing
Action Directe, Wolfgang Güllich's 25-year-old Frankenjura masterpiece
Action Directe was established by Wolfgang Güllich on 14 September 1991 at Waldkopf in Germany's Frankenjura. The route set new new standards in sport climbing and now, precisely twenty-five years after the first ascent, Planetmountain.com takes a step back in time to discover more about one of the most famous...
Siula Grande virgin East Face climbed by Max Bonniot and Didier Jourdain
07/09/2016 - Alpinism
Siula Grande virgin East Face climbed by Max Bonniot and Didier Jourdain
In August 2016 French alpinists Max Bonniot and Didier Jourdain ascended the East Pillar and SE Ridge of Siula Grande in Peru via their new route 'Le bruit des glaçons' (ED / 1400m / 6c WI5).
La vita è amara, Supramonte di Oliena climb in Sardinia
01/09/2016 - Climbing
La vita è amara, Supramonte di Oliena climb in Sardinia
Maurizio Oviglia talks about the first ascent of 'La vita è amara', a climb multi-pitch climb he first ascended with Giovanni Manconi at Supramonte di Oliena, Sardinia.
Stube, the new sport climbing crag in Höhlensteintal, Dolomites
29/08/2016 - Climbing
Stube, the new sport climbing crag in Höhlensteintal, Dolomites
The 'Crags for each season' project in collaboration with Vertical-Life.info continues with Stube, the new crag in Itay's Höhlensteintal / Val di Landro (Dolomites)
Romain Desgranges and Anak Verhoeven win the IFSC Climbing World Cup Lead at Arco
27/08/2016 - Competitions
Romain Desgranges and Anak Verhoeven win the IFSC Climbing World Cup Lead at Arco
Rock Master Festival 2016. At Arco Romain Desgranges (Fra) and Anak Verhoeven (Bel) win the 5th stage of Lead World Cup 2016. Jakob Schubert (Aut) and Jain Kim (Kor) place second, Dmitrii Fakiryanov (Rus) and Janja Garnbret (Slo) place third. Francesco Vettorata, the only Italian in the Final, finishes seventh.
Baffin big wall climbing: the final concert
19/08/2016 - Alpinism
Baffin big wall climbing: the final concert
The final report by Nicolas Favresse about the recent two-month climbing trip to Baffin Island, together with Sean Villanueva, Matteo Della Bordella, Matteo De Zaiacomo and Luca Schiera that resulted in a series of new, long and difficult trad routes.
Ueli Steck at Courmayeur's Passione Verticale 2016
17/08/2016 - Events
Ueli Steck at Courmayeur's Passione Verticale 2016
On Wednesday 17 August Switzerland’s Ueli Steck, one of the most talented mountaineers in the world, will take to the stage at Passione Verticale, the classic summer festival the town of Courmayeur dedicates every year to alpinism and the mountains. The evening begins at 21:15 and will be hosted by...
Bouldering World Cup 2016: showdown in Munich
13/08/2016 - Competitions
Bouldering World Cup 2016: showdown in Munich
The last stage of the Bouldering World Cup 2016 started yesterday with the qualifiers. Live streaming today of the semi-finals (11:30) and finals (18:30).
Col Nudo, Tito Arosio and Luca Vallata score first repeat of Miotto-Saviane-Corona
19/07/2016 - Alpinism
Col Nudo, Tito Arosio and Luca Vallata score first repeat of Miotto-Saviane-Corona
On 7 July 7 2016 Tito Arosio and Luca Vallata carried out the first repeat of Via Miotto-Saviane-Corona up the north face of Col Nudo (Col Brie), first climbed from 5 - 7 June 1982 by Franco Miotto, Benito Saviane and Mauro Corona.
Zanzara e Labbradoro on Monte Colodri at Arco
06/07/2016 - Climbing
Zanzara e Labbradoro on Monte Colodri at Arco
The climbing topo of the multi-pitch sports climb Zanzara e Labbradoro, the masterpiece established by Maurizio Zanolla Manolo and Roberto Bassi in 1983 up Monte Colodri, Arco (Lake Garda - Trentino), Italy
Colin Haley, solo, fast and light on the Infinite Spur in Alaska
04/07/2016 - Alpinism
Colin Haley, solo, fast and light on the Infinite Spur in Alaska
American alpinist Colin Haley shares his thoughts about his recent fast solo ascent of the Infinite Spur on Sultana - Mt. Foraker in Alaska. Originally posted only on facebook, Haley has kindly allowed his text to be republished on planetmountain.com.
Torre del Formenton, new rock climb at Passo di San Pellegrino, Dolomites
29/06/2016 - Alpinism
Torre del Formenton, new rock climb at Passo di San Pellegrino, Dolomites
Marco Bozzetta introduces Occhi d’acqua (7b, 210m), a new multi-pitch rock climb established ground-up in September 2015 together with Costante Carpella up the south face of Torre del Formenton, Val Fredda, Dolomiti. Dolomites.
Italian Lead Cup, Claudia Ghisolfi and Alberto Gotta win at L'Aquila
21/06/2016 - Competitions
Italian Lead Cup, Claudia Ghisolfi and Alberto Gotta win at L'Aquila
On Sunday, June 19 the third stage of the Italian Lead Cup was won o Villa San Angelo, L'Aquila, by Claudia Ghisolfi and Alberto Gotta.
Shauna Coxsey wins Bouldering World Cup 2016, Megan Mascarenas and Kokoro Fujii win in Vail
12/06/2016 - Competitions
Shauna Coxsey wins Bouldering World Cup 2016, Megan Mascarenas and Kokoro Fujii win in Vail
Britain’s Shauna Coxsey placed second in Vail last night to win the Bouldering World Cup 2016. The sixth stage was won America’s Megan Mascarenas and Japan’s Kokoro Fujii.
Basilicata Stray Rocks, rock climbing at Pietra del Toro
10/06/2016 - Climbing
Basilicata Stray Rocks, rock climbing at Pietra del Toro
Marzio Nardi introduces the video Rockslave XP 2015: discovering the rock climbing potential on the extraordinary sandstone outcrops in Lucanian Dolomites and the boulder problems at Pietra del Toro in Basilicata, Italy
Pedra Longa, its climbing and the video Luce senza memoria
08/06/2016 - Climbing
Pedra Longa, its climbing and the video Luce senza memoria
Climbing video: Maurizio Oviglia introduces his video of Luce senza memoria, the long traverse around Pedra Longa in Sardinia, first climbed in 1981 by Marco Bernardi and Alessandro Gogna.

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