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Mt. Hutsa & Peak 5912m, new international climbs in Genyen massif, Sichuan
01/11/2016 - Alpinism
Mt. Hutsa & Peak 5912m, new international climbs in Genyen massif, Sichuan
New Zealand mountaineer Robert Partridge reports about the international expedition comprised of Peter Linney (EIRE), Luca Vallata & Tito Arosio (IT), James Monypenny, Tom Nichols & Heather Swift (UK) that established various new routes in the Genyen massif of China's Sichuan province including the first ascents of Mt. Hutsa (5863m)...
Dai Koyamada, Alexander Megos and Daniel Jung find Frankenjura friction
31/10/2016 - Climbing
Dai Koyamada, Alexander Megos and Daniel Jung find Frankenjura friction
While Alexander Megos has repeated Becoming, a 9a+ sports climb in Germany’s Frankenjura, Daniel Jung and Dai Koyamada have repeated Corona 9a+ nearby.
Belvedere at Nago, sports climbing above Lake Garda
28/10/2016 - Climbing
Belvedere at Nago, sports climbing above Lake Garda
Rock climbing at the historic crag Belvedere at Nago (Arco, Italy), with a splendid view across Lake Garda, presented by Vertical-Life.info as part of our series 'Crags for each season'. Download the Vertical-Life APP with the routes and topos free of charge until Saturday.
Aiguille d'Entrèves and the climb Cocktail entr'Eve et Salluard. By Enrico Bonino
27/10/2016 - Alpinism
Aiguille d'Entrèves and the climb Cocktail entr'Eve et Salluard. By Enrico Bonino
Enrico Bonino talks about a modern interpretation of the Salluard climbs (plus variations) up the West Face of Aguille d'Entrèves in the Mont Blanc massif. The route was climbed in two stages, on 20/10/2016 by Enrico Bonino and Andrea Racchelli, and completed on 22/10/2016 by Bonino together with Ilaria Sonatore...
Red Bull Illume 2016 and the beauty of photography
22/10/2016 - Book-press
Red Bull Illume 2016 and the beauty of photography
German photographer Lorenz Holder has won one of the most prestigious photographic competitions in the world for “action & adventure”, namely the Red Bull Illume 2016. All the winning photos.
The moon above Vasilika, beyond the extreme
19/10/2016 - Environment
The moon above Vasilika, beyond the extreme
Nathalie Bini shares her experience in a refugee camp at Vasilika (Thessaloniki, Greece) and appeals to everyone, climber and non climbers, to help make a little magic.
Elephant Baby and Gravity Games 30 years later. By Rolando Larcher
19/10/2016 - Climbing
Elephant Baby and Gravity Games 30 years later. By Rolando Larcher
Thirty years later. The report by Rolando Larcher who, with his son Alessandro, returned to the climbs Elephant Baby (at San Paolo) and Gravity Games (at Eremo) not only to repeat these historic routes established in 1986 and the first to be graded 8a at Arco, but also to show...
Tavolara, climbing on the Sardinian island shrouded in myth
18/10/2016 - Climbing
Tavolara, climbing on the Sardinian island shrouded in myth
Maurizio Oviglia explores the fascinating climbing history of Tavolara Island, off the NE coast of Sardinia, and repeats 'Affora sa nato’ (6b, 215m) first ascended by Enzo Lecis and Simone Sarti in the ’90’s.
The Millennium Arch climbed in Canyonlands by Tom Randall and Pete Whittaker
17/10/2016 - Climbing
The Millennium Arch climbed in Canyonlands by Tom Randall and Pete Whittaker
British climbers Tom Randall and Pete Whittaker have made the first ascent of The Millennium Arch, a circa 100m roof crack at Canyonlands, USA they have now graded 5.14.
Jernej Kruder climbs Pontax, 8c DWS on Mallorca
14/10/2016 - Climbing
Jernej Kruder climbs Pontax, 8c DWS on Mallorca
Slovenian climber Jernej Kruder has made what is most likely to be the first repeat of Pontax, the 8c deep water solo climb first ascended by Chris Sharma in 2005 at Es pontas in Mallorca, Spain.
Ulju Mountain Film Festival, right first time in South Korea
11/10/2016 - Events
Ulju Mountain Film Festival, right first time in South Korea
From September 30 to October 4, 2016, the first Uiju Mountain Film Festival took place in South Korea. Italian mountaineer Reinhold Messner was the Honorary guest, while 24 films took part in the competition. The Festival Grand Prize was awarded to Jurek by Paweł Wysoczański and the inclusion of our...
Mike Kosterlitz awarded Nobel Prize in Physics
10/10/2016 - Alpinism
Mike Kosterlitz awarded Nobel Prize in Physics
Mike Kosterlitz was recently awarded the Nobel Prize in Physics. Apart from his scientific genius, the Scotsman was an expert climber and mountaineer who left his mark in particular in Italy’s Orco valley with his famous Fessura Kosterlitz. By Giovanni Battimelli.
Much Mayr and Guido Unterwurzacher repeat The Shaft on El Capitan, Yosemite
30/09/2016 - Climbing
Much Mayr and Guido Unterwurzacher repeat The Shaft on El Capitan, Yosemite
In spring 2016 Austrian climbers Much Mayr and Guido Unterwurzacher made a rare free ascent of The Shaft (Muir Wall free variation) on El Capitan, Yosemite, accompanied by Ben Lepesant who provides the report.
Martina Cufar climbs her second 8c at Bionnassay
28/09/2016 - Climbing
Martina Cufar climbs her second 8c at Bionnassay
Slovenian climber Martina Cufar has redpointed her second 8c sports climb, 'Max power' at Bionnassay, France.
Tor des Géants 2016, the Valle d’Aosta race recap
26/09/2016 - Competitions
Tor des Géants 2016, the Valle d’Aosta race recap
The video of the 7th Tor des Géants, the trail running competition won by Oliviero Bosatelli and Lisa Borzani across the Valle d'Aostra mountains from 11 - 18 September 2016.
World Climbing Championships Paris 2016 final report
23/09/2016 - Competitions
World Climbing Championships Paris 2016 final report
The report about the IFSC World Championships that took place in Paris, France, last week. Janja Garnbret and Adam Ondra hanno won the Lead title, while Petra Klingler and Tomoa Narasaki were crowned Bouldering World Champions.

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