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Jernej Kruder climbs Croatia’s hardest, Dugi rat at Omiš
02/01/2019 - Climbing
Jernej Kruder climbs Croatia’s hardest, Dugi rat at Omiš
On 31/12/2018 Slovenian climber Jernej Kruder made the first ascent of Dugi rat at the crag Vrulja close to Omiš in Croatia. Graded 9a+, this is now the hardest sport climb in the country.
Sardinia sport climbing: the new guidebook to Domusnovas
01/01/2019 - Climbing
Sardinia sport climbing: the new guidebook to Domusnovas
Maurizio Oviglia introduces the new climbing guidebook to Domusnovas, in the south-west of Sardinia, one of the 'historic' sport climbing areas on the Italian island.
Utopia, Simon Gietl and Mark Oberlechner climb new mixed at Rein in Taufers
28/12/2018 - Alpinism
Utopia, Simon Gietl and Mark Oberlechner climb new mixed at Rein in Taufers
On 16 December 2018 Simon Gietl and Mark Oberlechner made the first ascent of Utopia, a new mixed climb close to Rein in Taufers in Italy.
Dolomites ice climbing / Daniel Ladurner and Hannes Lemayer swing up Sonnentanz in Langental
26/12/2018 - Alpinism
Dolomites ice climbing / Daniel Ladurner and Hannes Lemayer swing up Sonnentanz in Langental
In Langental / Vallunga Daniel Ladurner and Hannes Lemayer have made the first ascent of Sonnentanz (WI5+ M7+ 260m), a mixed climb above Val Gardena, Dolomites.
Filo d'Ambiez up Cima d'Ambiez, new Brenta Dolomites winter direttissima
25/12/2018 - Alpinism
Filo d'Ambiez up Cima d'Ambiez, new Brenta Dolomites winter direttissima
On 14 December 2018 Gianni Canale, Demis Lorenzi and Aldo Mazzotti made the first ascent of Filo d’Ambiez ( AI, VI-, 350m), a direct line up the NW Face of Cima d’Ambiez in the Brenta Dolomites.
Adam Ondra onsighting Just Do It at Smith Rock, the uncut video
23/12/2018 - Climbing
Adam Ondra onsighting Just Do It at Smith Rock, the uncut video
The uncut video, ie Adam Ondra’s entire onsight ascent of Just Do It 8c+ at Smith Rock, USA, carried out in November 2018.
Brenta Dolomites: new mixed climb up Cima Grostè
17/12/2018 - Alpinism
Brenta Dolomites: new mixed climb up Cima Grostè
Jacopo Pellizzari introduces Siamo fuori dal Tunnel, a new mixed climb first ascended with Mauro Mabboni on 2 and 5 December 2018 up the West Face of Cima Grostè (Brenta Dolomites).
Stefano Ghisolfi portrays his Perfecto Mundo at Margalef
14/12/2018 - Interviews
Stefano Ghisolfi portrays his Perfecto Mundo at Margalef
Interview with Stefano Ghisolfi after his repeat of Perfecto Mundo, the 9b+ at Margalef in Spain considered one of the most difficult sport climbs in the world. After Adam Ondra, Chris Sharma and Alexander Megos, the 25-year-old climber from Italy is now only the fourth climber to master these difficulties.
Adam Ondra climbing To Bolt Or Not To Be at Smith Rock / VBlog #8
13/12/2018 - Climbing
Adam Ondra climbing To bolt Or Not To Be at Smith Rock / VBlog #8
The video of Adam Ondra at Smith Rock in Oregon attempting to onsight To bolt Or Not To Be, the first 8b+ in the USA freed by Jean-Baptiste Tribout in 1986.
Teufelsgeige, new mixed climb in Langental, Dolomites
13/12/2018 - Alpinism
Teufelsgeige, new mixed climb in Langental, Dolomites
Ice climbing in the Dolomites: in Langental, Dolomites, Daniel Ladurner and Hannes Lemayer have made the first ascent of Teufelsgeige (125m, WI5+, M6), a new mixed climb circa 30 meters to the right of the classic icefall Piovra.
Stefano Ghisolfi picture perfect on Perfecto Mundo at Margalef
07/12/2018 - Climbing
Stefano Ghisolfi picture perfect on Perfecto Mundo at Margalef
Today at Margalef in Spain the Italian climber Stefano Ghisolfi repeated Perfecto Mundo, the 9b+ freed by Alexander Megos and considered one of the hardest sport climbs in the world.
Sonnie Trotter frees North America Wall variation on El Capitan
07/12/2018 - Climbing
Sonnie Trotter frees North America Wall variation on El Capitan
Climbing with Tommy Caldwell, on 19 November Sonnie Trotter made the first one day free ascent of a new all free variation to North America Wall / El Nino. The Canadian had discovered the 3-pitch variation, now called Pineapple Express, in 2017 with Alex Honnold.
Matilda Söderlund returns to form at Red River Gorge
07/12/2018 - Climbing
Matilda Söderlund returns to form at Red River Gorge
Swedish rock climber Matilda Söderlund has repeated Pure Imagination 8c+ at Red River Gorge, USA
David Lama / The Lunag Ri Solo Interview
04/12/2018 - Interviews
David Lama / The Lunag Ri Solo Interview
Interview with David Lama after his October 2018 solo first ascent of Lunag Ri, the 6907m mountain on the border between Nepal and Tibet.
Alessandro Zeni frees his Cosmic Energy, a possible 9a+ at Bilico, Dolomites
19/11/2018 - Climbing
Alessandro Zeni frees his Cosmic Energy, a possible 9a+ at Bilico, Dolomites
At the crag Bilico (Primiero, Dolomites) Alessandro Zeni has made the first ascent of Energia Cosmica, Cosmic Energy, a sports climb the 27-year-old has now tentatively graded 9a+.
Pakistan 2018: Kiris Peak and a yesteryear mountaineering adventure. By Maurizio Giordani
16/11/2018 - Alpinism
Pakistan 2018: Kiris Peak and a yesteryear mountaineering adventure. By Maurizio Giordani
Italian alpinist Maurizio Giordani reports about his climbing expedition to Pakistan during which, with Massimo Faletti, he completed a stylish ascent of Water World, a beautiful and difficult big wall up the hitherto unclimbed Kiris Peak (5428m). The other expedition members included Manrico Dell’Agnola, Antonella Giacomin, Cristiano Marinello, Andrea Peron,...

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