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Marco Anghileri: first solo ascent of L'Ultimo Zar on Pale di San Lucano
21/10/2011 - Alpinism
Marco Anghileri: first solo ascent of L'Ultimo Zar on Pale di San Lucano
On 13 and 14 ocotber 2011 Marco Anghileri carried out the first solo ascent of "L'Ultimo Zar" (500m, 7+ A3). This is the 5th solo climb this season, all carried out in the Lecco Grigna area.
An instant, and everything changes
18/10/2011 - Alpinism
An instant, and everything changes
For the first time since the accident, Xenia Minder talks to Le Temps about her drama after falling in the mountains and dragging down her life partner, Erhard Loretan.
Exploring The Alps final stage, new route on Monte Rosa by Barmasse father and son
09/10/2011 - Alpinism
Exploring The Alps final stage, new route on Monte Rosa by Barmasse father and son
On 30 September Hervé and Marco Barmasse established a new 800m line up the SE Face of Monte Rosa. This third stage marks the end of Hervé Barmasse's project entitled Exploring The Alps.
Junai Kangri, first ascent in the Karakorum by Spanish expedition
07/09/2011 - Alpinism
Junai Kangri, first ascent in the Karakorum by Spanish expedition
On 22 August a Spanish expedition led by Jonas Cruces carried out the first ascent of Junai Kangri (6017m) in India's Karakorum, via their route "Sin permiso (IV, AD +, 750m).
Gerlinde Kaltenbrunner summits K2!
23/08/2011 - Alpinism
Gerlinde Kaltenbrunner summits K2!
At 18:18 local time Gerlinde Kaltenbrunner from Austria reached the summit of K2. In doing so she has become the first woman in the world to climb all fourteen 8000m peaks without the use of supplementary oxygen.
No way down. The book by Graham Bowley about the 2008 tragedy on K2
01/07/2011 - Book-press
No way down. The book by Graham Bowley about the 2008 tragedy on K2
No Way Down: Life and Death on K2 by Graham Bowley has now been published in Italy by Mondadori. The book retraces the 2008 tragedy on K2 which cost the lives of 11 alpinists and only Italian mountaineer Marco Confortola survived.
Russian Latok III success
28/06/2011 - Alpinism
Russian Latok III success
On 25/06/2011 a Russian expedition comprised of Alexander Odintsov, Alexey Lonchinskiy, Ivan Dozhdev and Eugeniy Dmitrienko summited Latok III (6949m) in Pakistan's Karakoram via the hitherto unclimbed West Face.
Kahiltna Peaks West (Alaska): new route by Meraldi and Giovannini
20/06/2011 - Alpinism
Kahiltna Peaks West (Alaska): new route by Meraldi and Giovannini
On 24/05/2011 Fabio Meraldi and Diego Giovannini established a new route up the East Spur of Kahiltna Peaks West (3914m, McKinley-Denali mountain chain, Alaska).
Simone Moro and helicopter rescues in Nepal
01/06/2011 - Alpinism
Simone Moro and helicopter rescues in Nepal
Interview with Simone Moro about the latest helicopter rescues in Nepal's mountains.
The Mount Hunter Cartright Connection - Matt Helliker interview details
01/06/2011 - Alpinism
The Mount Hunter Cartright Connection - Matt Helliker interview details
Interview with British mountaineer Matt Hellinker after his first ascent of the Cartwright Connection, up Moonflower Buttress on Mount Hunter in the Denali National Park, Alaska together with Jon Bracey.
Mezzalama Trophy 2011. The race, winners and a renewed competition
02/05/2011 - Competitions
Mezzalama Trophy 2011. The race, winners and a renewed competition
On 1 May 2011 the XVIII Mezzalama Trophy was won by the international team comprised of Spaniard Jornet Burgada and the Frenchmen Bon Mardion and Blanc. The women's event was won by Pellissier, Pedranzini, Martinelli. The report and excitement of the great ski mountaineering marathon on Monte Rosa, by Lorenzo...
Mezzalama Trophy 2011: the great Monte Rosa ski mountaineering competition postpoined to Sunday
29/04/2011 - Competitions
Mezzalama Trophy 2011: the great Monte Rosa ski mountaineering competition postpoined to Sunday
The start of the XVIII "Mezzalama" has been postponed to 05:30 on Sunday 1 May
Piolet d'Or 2011, winners, diversity and the challenges of alpinism
19/04/2011 - Events
Piolet d'Or 2011, winners, diversity and the challenges of alpinism
Two Piolets d'Or were awarded on 15 April in Chamonix, France, during the IXX Piolet d'Or 2011: to the Greenland Big Walls by Sean Villanueva, Nicolas and Olivier Favresse, Ben Ditto and Bob Shepton and to the ascent up Mount Logan in Canada by Yasushi Okada and Katsutaka Yokoyama from...
Broad Peak and GI, winter ascents abandoned
21/03/2011 - Alpinism
Broad Peak and GI, winter ascents abandoned
Neither the Polish mountaineers engaged on Broad Peak nor the international expedition on G1 have managed to climb these giant mountains during the coldest season, and both expedition have now abandoned their attempts.
Piolet d'Or 2011: the nominations, Doug Scott receives Lifetime Achievement, and all the evenings
21/03/2011 - Alpinism
Piolet d'Or 2011: the nominations, Doug Scott receives Lifetime Achievement, and all the evenings
The IXX Piolet d'Or will take place from 13 - 16 April 2011 at Courmayeur and Chamonix (Mont Blanc). Six ascents are in the running for the golden ice axe, while the great British mountaineer Doug Scott will receive the Lifetime Achievement Award. Details of the evening dedicated to Extra-Ordinary...
From the Pierra Menta to the Grande Course... the changing face of ski mountaineering competitions
19/03/2011 - Competitions
From the Pierra Menta to the Grande Course... the changing face of ski mountaineering competitions
The Grande Course has just begun, the first international ski mountaineering cup comparable to a tennis Grand Slam. Action kicked off on 17 March on the slopes of France's Arêches-Beaufort, which hosted the Grenoble winter Olympics, with the classic French ski mountaineering competition Pierra Menta which dates back to 1985.