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Silvia Vidal establishes Espiadimonis up Serrania Avalancha in Patagonia
16/04/2012 - Climbing
Silvia Vidal establishes Espiadimonis up Serrania Avalancha in Patagonia
In February and March 2012 Spanish alpinist Silvia Vidal established the Espiadimonis (A4/6b, 1500m) up Serrania Avalancha in Chilean Patagonia.
Melloblocco 2012 - The Bouldering Community returns to Val Masino
13/04/2012 - Events
Melloblocco 2012 - The Bouldering Community returns to Val Masino
The ninth Melloblocco, the world's most important bouldering meeting, takes place in Val Masino, Sondrio, Italy from 3 - 6 May 2012.
Mezzogiorno di Fuoco and Amico Fragile for Ciavaldini and Pearson in Sardinia
11/04/2012 - Climbing
Mezzogiorno di Fuoco and Amico Fragile for Ciavaldini and Pearson in Sardinia
Caroline Ciavaldini and James Pearson have repeated Mezzogiorno di Fuoco (8b, 270m) at Punta Giradili and Amico Fragile (8b, 230m) at Monte Donneittu in Sardinia.
Gran Sasso, Di Donato and Lemaire and the winter ascent of Il nagual e la farfalla
03/04/2012 - Alpinism
Gran Sasso, Di Donato and Lemaire and the winter ascent of Il nagual e la farfalla
From 14 to 16 March 2012 the Italian climbers Andrea Di Donato and Bertrand Lemaire made the second winter ascent of the route Il nagual e la farfalla up Gran Sasso, Central Italy. The report about this outstanding ascent by Roberto Iannilli.
For Lorenzo Castaldi 'Enzolino'
30/03/2012 - Alpinism
For Lorenzo Castaldi 'Enzolino'
Today, Friday 30 March 2012 at 11:30 at Mater Ecclesiae in Sassari, the final farewell to Lorenzo Castaldi “Enzolino”, for the numerous alpinists and climbers who met him at the crags, in the mountains and the alpine forums for which he was one of the most impassioned and careful contributors.
Hansjörg Auer, new route The Music of Chance on Kirchkogel in Austria
29/03/2012 - Alpinism
Hansjörg Auer, new route The Music of Chance on Kirchkogel in Austria
From 28 February to 20 March Hansjörg Auer established The Music of Chance on the Kristallwand face up Kirchkogel in Austria
Manolo and Roby Present, new climb in Val Noana
28/03/2012 - Climbing
Manolo and Roby Present, new climb in Val Noana
On 24 March 2012 Maurizio "Manolo" Zanolla made the first ascent of Roby Present (35m, proposed grade 8c+/9a) in Val Noana (Pale di San Martino, Dolomites). Established by Manolo, the route is dedicated to his friend Roberto Bassi.
Piolets d'Or 2012: K7 West and Saser Kangri II
25/03/2012 - Events
Piolets d'Or 2012: K7 West and Saser Kangri II
The Piolet d'Or 2012 was awarded to two ascents, K7 West in Pakistan climbed by the Slovenians Nejc Marcic and Luka Strazar, and Saser Kangri II in India climbed by the Americans Mark Richey, Steve Swenson and Freddie Wilkinson. The ascent of Torre Egger in Argentina by Bjorn-Eivind Aartun and...
Piolets d'Or 2012, the international alpinism festival starts today
21/03/2012 - Events
Piolets d'Or 2012, the international alpinism festival starts today
The Piolet d'Or gets underway in Courmayeur and Chamonix today and 2012 celebrates the 20th anniversary of the world's most famous alpinism award. Four days of international alpinism at the foot of Mont Blanc to discuss, watch and celebrate alpinism in all its forms, to pay homage to Walter Bonatti...
Jim Bridwell, his Cerro Torre point of view
13/03/2012 - Alpinism
Jim Bridwell, his Cerro Torre point of view
The thoughts of American alpinist Jim Bridwell about the bolt chopping on the Compressor Route, Cerro Torre, Patagonia
Miyar Valley, new climbs by Schaar and Peschel in India
27/02/2012 - Alpinism
Miyar Valley, new climbs by Schaar and Peschel in India
In summer 2011 Gerhard Schaar and Ines Peschel visited the Miyar Valley (India) where they established a series of new routes.
Cerro Torre an impossible mountain, the petition in favour of the bolt chopping
20/02/2012 - Alpinism
Cerro Torre an impossible mountain, the petition in favour of the bolt chopping
The petition, promoted by Rolando Garibotti, concerning the recent bolt chopping of the Compressor Route on Cerro Torre, Patagonia by the Americans Hayden Kennedy and Jason Kruk.
Piolet d'Or 2012, the 6 nominations
14/02/2012 - Alpinism
Piolet d'Or 2012, the 6 nominations
The XX Piolet d'Or will take place in Courmayeur (Italy) and Chamonix (France) from 21 - 24 March 2012. Here are the 6 nominations for the coveted golden ice axe, while Frenchman Robert Paragot will receive the Lifetime Achievement Award.
Cerro Torre bolt chopping, the debate in Italy
09/02/2012 - Alpinism
Cerro Torre bolt chopping, the debate in Italy
With regards to the bolt chopping on Cerro Torre's Compressor route, we have received and published the views of Stefano Lovison, shared by numerous Italian alpinists.
David Lama frees the Compressor route… while Kruk & Kennedy's bolt chopping is hotly debated
23/01/2012 - Alpinism
David Lama frees the Compressor route… while Kruk & Kennedy's bolt chopping is hotly debated
Yesterday 22/01/2012 David Lama made the first free ascent of the Compressor Route on Cerro Torre, Patagonia. The news has been confirmed by David Lama's team. There are no further details but this update will certainly add fuel to the controversy which has followed the bolt chopping carried out recently...
Cerro Torre, Kennedy and Kruk and the Compressor route by fair means
20/01/2012 - Alpinism
Cerro Torre, Kennedy and Kruk and the Compressor route by fair means
On 17/01/2012 Hayden Kennedy and Jason Kruk climbed the SE Ridge (the Compressor route) of Cerro Torre (Patagonia) via a route "by fair means" with difficulties up to 5.11 A2. In descent the two removed a significant portion of the Compressor route established by Cesare Maestri in 1970.