1205 News found
05/02/2016 - Alpinism
Tom Ballard claims world's first D15 dry tooling climb in the Dolomites British climber Tom Ballard has freed A Line Above the Sky at Tomorrow's World, Dolomites. If the D15 grade is confirmed, this climb weighs in as the hardest drytooling route in the world.
01/02/2016 - Climbing
Valle dell'Orco, Rolando Larcher climbs new granite on Torre di Aimonin Rolando Larcher recounts the beauty of trad climbing in Italy's Valle dell'Orco: the video (by Riky Felderer) and the report of two new rock climbs on Torre di Aimonin: "Cani & Gatti" (8a+), first ascended with a mix of trad and bolts by M. Oviglia and P. Seimandi and freed...
28/01/2016 - Alpinism
Marianne van der Steen D13+ drytooling flash at Bus del Quai, Italy On 26 January 2016 at Bus del Quai di Iseo (Italy) Dutch climber Marianne van der Steen managed to flash Kamasutra, a drytooling climb graded D13+.
15/01/2016 - Alpinism
Tom Ballard: climbing towards tomorrow's world in the Dolomites British climber Tom Ballard discusses his recent climbs, which include the first ascent of Je Ne Sais Quoi D14+ in the Dolomites, Italy.
14/01/2016 - Alpinism
Nanga Parbat: team join forces on Kinshofer route. Nardi and Bielecki ascend but are stopped by fall at 5800m The latest updates concerning attempts at the first winter ascent of Nanga Parbat (8125m) Pakistan. On the Diamir Face Daniele Nardi, Alex Txikon, Ali Sadpara, Adam Bielecki and Jacek Tcech have decided to join forces along the Kinshofer route, and Bielecki fell, fortunately without hurting himself. Elisabeth Revol and Tomek...
13/01/2016 - Alpinism
Psycho Vertical, Torre Egger, Patagonia first repeat in 29 years. Interview with Korra Pesce From 7 to 9 January 2016 Tomy Aguilo, Corrado Korra Pesce, Roland Striemitzer, Iñaki Coussirat and Carlitos Molina made the coveted second ascent of Psycho Vertical, the route first ascended in December 1986 up the southeast face of Torre Egger in Patagonia by the Slovenians Janez Jeglič, Silvo Karo and...
12/01/2016 - Alpinism
Gigi La Trottola, new Mulaz climb in the Dolomites by Baù, Migliorini, Zaccaria The report by Alessandro Baù who, in summer 2015 together with Claudio Migliorini and Giovanni Zaccaria, made the first ascent of Gigi La Trottola (IX, 450m) up the west face of Mulaz, Pale di San Martino, Dolomites.
08/01/2016 - Alpinism
Mur del Pisciadù, Dolomites icefall climbed by Baumgartner cousin On Mur del Pisciadù (Sella, Dolomites) Manuel Baumgartner and Martin Baumgartner have climed Mur del Pisciadù Eisfall, an icefall with difficulties up to V+/M6/WI6.
27/12/2015 - Alpinism
Kuffner ridge, scaling Mont Blanc's beauty and history The Kuffner Ridge (also known as the Frontier Ridge), one of the classic and most beautiful ridge traverses in the Mont Blanc massif, described by mountain guide Thomas Scalise Meynet.
21/12/2015 - Climbing
Cadarese trad: 10 crack climbs in Val d'Ossola, Italy Maurizio Oviglia introduces 10 trad cracks at Cadarese in Val d'Ossola, Italy, ideally suited to learn how to crack climb.
18/12/2015 - Alpinism
Chloë, new icefall at Vallone del Grauson, Cogne, Italy On 15/12/2015 The mountain guides Ezio Marlier and Thomas Scalise Meynet, together with Roger Bovard made the first ascent of Chloë (M6 WI 4 II), a new, beautiful and difficult ice climb in vallone del Grauson (Cogne, Valle d’Aosta, Italy.. Meynet reports about the ascent, tells the story of Chloë...
16/12/2015 - Climbing
Jacopo Larcher repeats Psychogramm 8b+ trad in Austria At the Bürser Platte in Voralberg, Austria, Jacopo Larcher has repeated Psychogramm, the trad climb graded 8b+.
11/12/2015 - Climbing
Gabriele Moroni claims Maestri di Vita at Metanodotto Italian rock climber Gabriele Moroni has made the first ascent of Maestri di Vita, Life Masters, a difficult and dangerous trad climb at Metanodotto in the Aosta Valley.
08/12/2015 - Alpinism
Sogni di Gloria on Punta Angelo, Adamello - Presanella The report by Francesco Groppelli about Sogni di Gloria (M4, 360m), a possible new ice and mixed climb up the North Face of Punta Angelo (Adamello - Presanella massif) climbed on 29/11/2015 together with Maurizio Piller Hoffer.
07/12/2015 - Alpinism
Brenta Dolomites Val d'Ambiez: new climb in memory of Andrea Zambaldi The short film entitled Zamba by Pietro Bagnara / OpenCircle documenting the first ascent of Simonini - Bellamoli (370m, 7a max, 6b/c oblig), the new rock climb put up by Gianluca Beliamoli and Andrea Simonini in Val d'Ambiez, Brenta Dolomites, in memory of the late Andrea Zambaldi.
03/12/2015 - Climbing
Yosemite Secret Passage repeated by Pete Whittaker and Dan McManus British rock climbers Pete Whittaker and Dan McManus have made the first repeat of The Secret Passage, the 5.13c (8a+) climb on El Capitan established ground-up in 2008 by Nicolas Favresse and Sean Villanueva.
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